Unfiltered: Romeo Bisacchi

The restaurant and bar manager for The Wild Rabbit, Oxfordshire, talks to Douglas Blyde about serving the late David Rockefeller, rabbit on the menu, and leading “by example”…

What is your vintage?

I was born in Monaco in 1992, then raised, for over 25 years, in Genoa. From my birth year, I have encountered an undrinkable Cheval Blanc, and would one day like to try Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, Occhio di Pernice Vin Santo, and Sassicaia.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

The outstanding Mouton 1949 which had white truffle notes. I remember trying it at Enoteca Pinchiorri when Benjamin Netanyahu came for dinner – it was from his birth year.

Where did you work before The Wild Rabbit?

At Caractere, Notting Hill, where I created a list celebrating, equally, the French and Italian heritage of owners, Emily Roux and Diego Ferrari. Before that, Florence’s three Michelin-starred, Enoteca Pinchiorri. There the owner, Giorgio Pinchiorri would share knowledge of his cellar, telling me how he discovered Masseto, buying the first vintages.

Why did you leave London?

Through Caractere, I met my partner – and we now have a 15-month-old son, Milo, with a second child due in July. London wasn’t affordable anymore.

How does life in the country compare to life in the capital?

I joined The Wild Rabbit on 1^st July 2021. Here, in Moreton-in-Marsh, I can see the stars when I come back home, which is good for the mind compared to London which is chaotic and busy with services available 24/7.

Who is the most famous person you have looked after during your career?

The late David Rockefeller who was a polite gentleman.

Who has been your mentor?

I’ve had more than one, though my first was my granddad who spent 45 years in hospitality back in the 20^th century. I’ve been lucky in that I’ve always had someone who has taken the time to teach me things in every place that I have worked. A special thank you is to Roberto Gardini, my teacher in Alma, and Alessandro Tomberli, restaurant director of Enoteca Pinchiorri.

Describe the wine selection at The Wild Rabbit?

I try to find special producers from around the world including “my aficionados” which I have brought with me, such as Philiponnat Champagne, Roagna from Piedmont and Quintodecimo from Campania. From Bordeaux, we feature the wines of Guinaudeau, being Château Lafleur, Château Grand Village. I am generally a fan of second wines, which can still offer affordability from a good vintage. We also list every wine from our sister winery, Château Léoube including Secret de Léoube, the most representative line.

What is an exciting pour via Coravin?

It changes regularly according to Chef’s menu, though currently: Riesling, Scharzhof, Egon Müller, Paolo Scavino Barolo, Ségla, and Collector by Château Léoube.

What has been a standout wine pairing with a dish by executive chef, Sam Bowser?

You can feel the French touch in the saucing of the dishes by Sam, who previously worked at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and has held positions at Dormy House Hotel, Whatley Manor Hotel, Llangoed Hall Hotel and The Square. The most successful pairing so far was the flavoursome, but balanced, Lagrein Riserva Gries, Cantina Terlano, with smoked venison from the Daylesford  estate which is not that gamey. I also considered Pinot Noir for the match, though the Lagrein has more structure.

What does the chef enjoy drinking?

His wife is German so he likes a lot of Riesling.

Is wild rabbit on the menu?

Yes, we have rabbit rillette in the pub!

Do you prefer Müller-Thurgau or Pomino Bianco?

Pomino from Frescobaldi. I remember when I visited their estate just outside Florence. It’s a good, refreshing white wine. You can drink a bottle while you are cooking dinner.

What grape or style don’t you get along with?

I’ve never enjoyed Gewürztraminer.

What is your favourite beer on draught at The Wild Rabbit?

Cotswold IPA, by the stone fireplace between the bar and the dining room.

Which is the best table in the dining room?

It’s hard to say because every table has a different view of the open view kitchen. If you’re celebrating as a group of four or five, table three in the far corner offers a bit more space and a vantage from which you can check everything out.

Is it true you’ve long been a fan of the British Sunday roast tradition?

Very much so. And our roast, using high-quality Daylesford organic meat, is really tasty.

What has been an embarrassing service mistake?

When we reopened after Christmas, we added one more table, and suddenly table seven became table six, confusing everyone.

What is your favourite book of all time?

“Il Respiro Del Vino: Conoscere il profumo del vino per bere con maggior piacere” by Moio Luigi, Professor of Oenology at the University of Naples and the winemaker of Quintodecimo. It’s a really technical book explaining the chemical aspect of taste.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

Lately, I’ve become interested in cars, and have bought an Abarth 500 from 2010 with a 135 horsepower engine, and every month I modify some parts. I wanted this car when I was much younger, and now I am thirty, the dream has become a reality.

What do you do on your day off?

I visit the food shops here in the Cotswolds and love cooking at home and have got every kitchen machine you can imagine.

What is your motto?

“Lead by example”, being the philosophy of Gualtiero Marchesi, whose academy I studied at.

And finally, what do you look for when hiring people?

Curiosity and a natural smile.

The Wild Rabbit – Church Street, Kingham, Oxfordshire, OX7 6YA; 01608 658389; restaurant@thewildrabbit.co.uk; thewildrabbit.co.uk