Unfiltered: Sara Rossi

The head sommelier for Clapham’s long-standing Trinity restaurant talks to Douglas Blyde about a delicious Bierzo reaped from octogenarian vines, serving Will Smith on Park Lane, and a most memorable meal at Bristol’s Casamia…

What is your vintage?

I was born in the small village of Prato, north of Tuscany in 1987, a year from which I have drunk Port and Madeira.

Who has inspired you?

My father, who is a chef in Italy, inspired me to work in the restaurant business. Thanks to him I learnt discipline and hard work. Also, Justė Karbauskaitė, who taught me about wine tasting and service when we worked together at a natural wine a decade ago.

Where did you work before Trinity?

At Fera at Claridge’s for two years until the restaurant sadly closed in December 2018. I was lucky to find a place at Trinity as senior sommelier and then got promoted to head sommelier. At the moment I am looking after the beverage programme with my assistant, Hugo Moreira. I like working at Trinity because of its sense of place and family for both the team and our regular guests.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

La Stoppa Ageno 2006, a very distinctive orange wine from Emilia-Romagna. I was surprised and intrigued not only by its tasting note, having pronounced aromas of Earl Grey tea, ripe peach, and cloves, but also by the method of production.

Share some of the standout producers on your list?

A very hard question. I would say José Antonio García from Bierzo who produces delicious Mencía from 80-year-old vines. Also, Rémi Leroy from Aube in Champagne, a young winemaker with only nine hectares of vineyards. We are so lucky to have his wine as our house Champagne. And Domaines, Dujac and Roulot which are always listed at Trinity.

What are “Chef’s Cellar Wines” (CCW) and how are these chosen?

These are wines which chef-patron, Adam Byatt loves. He wants them to be accessible at cost price plus corkage (£35) and VAT.  These include Salon 2007, Pontet-Canet 2005, Corton -Charlemagne Domaine Bouchard 2015, Hermitage Chapoutier 2010 and Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Rayas 1989.

How many references are there in total?

500.

What has been a standout wine pairing?

Turbot cooked in beurre blanc and truffe paired with Kumeu River Coddington Vineyard 2017 from magnum. The texture and creaminess of the dish matched very well with the body and refreshing acidity of the wine while the earthiness from the truffle married the smokiness of the wine.

What is Adam Byatt like to work with?

He is a great chef and an incredible mentor for both the kitchen and front of house team. He is very passionate about food, wine, and hospitality, and always brings positivity and energy to the restaurant.

Which is the best table in the dining room?

I prefer the ones closer to the window, while some guests prefer those closer to the kitchen so they can enjoy the show.

What happens at “Upstairs”?

Upstairs is another restaurant with a more casual atmosphere, open kitchen and sharing plates concept, though the wine list is the same as Trinity. Once a month, we organise wine dinners. Adam cooks a unique tasting menu with seasonal ingredients, and I match the wines, telling the story about the region and producers to our guests.

Which style do you find it hard to get along with?

At the moment, heavily oaked wines.

Who is the most memorable guest you have looked after during your career?

Will Smith, whom I served at 45 Park Lane many years ago.

What music is played at Trinity?

There is no music in the restaurant, while Upstairs we play easy-listening pop and rock

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I tend to recommend French wines rather than Italian to our guests, though I do not know the reason why.

What has been your most memorable lunch in the world?

Casamia in Bristol. An incredible and unforgettable experience. Super food, staff, and wine list.

What do you look for in prospective candidates?

Somebody who is engaging and can make a memorable dining experience for our guests. Good personality and attitude. Passionate about food and wine.

Trinity – 4 The Polygon, London, SW4 0JG; 020 7622 1199; dine@trinityrestaurant.co.uk; trinityrestaurant.co.uk