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Unfiltered: Isa Bal

Trivet’s Turkish Master Sommelier and co-founder, Isa Bal talks to Douglas Blyde about meditative wine, having his very own bar stool, and being able to recite the script for The Big Lebowski.

What does “Trivet” mean?

Trivet is an age-old utensil that exists in every food culture around the world – probably one of the first humans created after discovering fire. You rest your pans on it to protect them from direct fire. It is also very balanced on an uneven surface, which we saw plenty of in the last couple of years.

What is your vintage? 

I was born in Turkey in 1971, and I have had some great wines from this year. Red Burgundies were excellent, and I had a few German Rieslings that would still be wonderful to enjoy. It was also a great vintage in Tuscany.

What was the last wine to move you? 

2008 Corton Charlamagne from Coche-Dury. I felt like it should be drunk in a monastery in total isolation. Totally meditative.

What has been a particularly thought-provoking vineyard visit?

Visiting the vineyards of Georgia. Just seeing the wine in every cell of life and so deep in history – one’s mind runs wild with imagination.

How do you keep things fresh and interesting at Trivet? 

Both our menu and the wine list change regularly. We are curious and enjoy the process of creating new things collectively, so everyone gets involved and often this includes our guests.

Describe your approach?

Nothing is flatly excluded – our offering is intricate yet simple. For a young restaurant we have a decent amount of mature wines, as well as some that are listed only at Trivet. For example, Ten Göynek is a steely, chalky white that comes from a 70-plus-year-old vineyard. This was the first time anyone made a single varietal wine from this grape. It would not be out of place amongst some of the finest Assyrtiko and Chablis.

What has been a standout collaborative pairing with co-founder and head chef, Jonny Lake’s cuisine? 

With the cherry and almond tart with umeshu, both the dish and umeshu share a common flavour compound. They just elevate the experience to another level. Our pigeon dish with a Northern Rhône or Rhône-style Syrah is also great. The spice and gaminess of the dish marry perfectly with the wine.

What wine might not work with Jonny’s cuisine? 

Bad wines.

How does Trivet’s interior enhance the enjoyment of wine?

The setting is clutter-free, tables are set with a napkin and a glass with a small vase. It also has a very generous space that gives people enough personal space, so the wine and the food become the focus of attention.

Does the dining room feature music? 

Yes, we tend to play jazz, but from time to time you might hear a Queens of the Stone Age song.

Do you have a favourite stool at Trivet’s bar? 

Yes, the one that is right at the end. In fact we don’t use it unless we have to. Only a few customers are ever allowed to sit there.

What is your favourite digestif?

I would never say no to Chartreuse.

How seriously do you take non-alcoholic drinks?

I don’t consume them other than water, however, I spend quite a bit of time researching and thinking about them, as I know not everybody is interested in drinking wine.

What have the critics said of Trivet?

It feels like we are still a new restaurant and we love to have the critics and see what they think.

Tell us something surprising about yourself? 

Once I was able to recite ten movies, including The Big Lebowski.

What is the most beautiful garden you’ve ever seen? 

South Africa! The whole Cape area feels a like a beautiful garden.

Which is your preference: Cognac or Armagnac? 

Cognac.

Daft Punk or Gogol Bordello? 

Neither, Kyuss would be more my choice.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to the team? 

Come in person and meet us!

Trivet – 36 Snowsfields, London, SE1 3SU; 020 3141 8670; info@trivetrestaurant.co.uktrivetrestaurant.co.uk

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