The rosé revolution


Susana Balbo in Argentina and Spain’s Chivite, in Navarra, have been quick to respond to the growing demand for paler pinks, launching Provençal-style wines of their own that are dry and pale in colour, as has Spain’s Marqués de Cáceres, with the launch of its Excellens pale pink rosé in 2014, which sits alongside its Tempranillo-based Marqués de Cáceres Rosado.

“Our rosé wines represent 14% of our total production, and Excellens rosé is gaining ground in markets where pale pink rosés are in vogue, with double-digit growth in certain cases,” says Cristina Forner, president of Marqués de Cáceres. “While wining and dining here in Spain in tapas bars and restaurants, more and more pale pink rosés seem to be appearing on the market.” Similarly, Chilean wine producer Concha y Toro is also upping its focus on rosé, with the launch of a limited-edition Casillero del Diablo Rosé this summer.

Previously made with 100% Syrah, the addition of Cinsault and Carmenère will see its hue lighten from the 2017 vintage. “Where we are seeing growth is in lighter styles, so around Pinot Grigio, Provence and Moscato,” says Haughton. “It’s not exclusive to a grape. The reason that we have seen growth in this area is that shoppers tend to be younger. Innovation within the packaging and bottle shape relates to that generation. It’s something that they can Instagram.”

Highlighting the power of pale, last month saw the launch of Provence house Châteaux & Vignobles d’Exception, formed of four wineries: Chateau de Berne; Château de Bertrands; Ultimate Provence; and Saint Roux, all located in the Lorgues region of Provence. At the heart of the operation is Château de Berne, home to a five-star hotel, spa and a Michelin star restaurant. “We are working hard to bring a point of difference, especially in terms of packaging.

We’re the first to bring a sense of oenotourism to Provence,” says Anthony Carfantan, former global head of sales at English sparkling wine producer Nyetimber, and the newly founded group’s global sales director for Europe, Africa, the Middle East and Asia-Pacific. “That’s where Berne has excelled so far. Every year 200,000 people visit the château and its vineyards.” Ultimate Provence, meanwhile, is the group’s lifestyle-based rosé brand, as well as a wine estate located just outside Saint- Tropez.

Aimed at the trendy millennial consumer, it boasts a rooftop bar, a boutique hotel, bistro and an amphitheatre. Packaging is also key, with the Syrah-based rosé housed in elegant cut glass label-free bottles with an embossed crest of the brand’s logo; reminiscent of a perfume bottle.

One Response to “The rosé revolution”

  1. “Invariably light and easy drinking” I keep finding it distressing that all pink wine is lumped together. We make a rosé that is pretty full bodied. It is barrel fermented and sur lees. A two year production cycle. Put it in a black glass and people will accept it as a white Burgundy.
    There is a lot of pink crap out there, anytime a category booms there’s a lowering of average quality. Although Rosé is a broad group that has been mostly pretty lame. I used to be involved in making sweet, pink crap.
    To put all rosé wines in a group is as silly as putting all colors in a group. Oh! Wait! That’s bigotry!
    There is a lot more to ROSÉ, maybe you should do a story on those making the exceptions to pink, overpriced plonk?
    Paul Vandenberg
    Proud producer of dry, sur lees, barrel aged rosé wines since 1999.
    Paradisos del Sol
    Home of Vineyard del Sol, the World’s first Zero Pesticide Vineyard

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