New on Wine List Confidential: Villa di Geggiano

The noble Bianchi Bandinelli family first brought their Chianti to Britain in 1752. Now, via the enterprise that is the Villa di Geggiano restaurant in Chiswick, they continue to showcase their organic wares, with elegance and creativity.

Thankfully consigned to the past is the formerly muddy paint job miring the frontage, and hideous glitter balls within, featuring during the eight-year tenure of Frankie Dettori MBE and Marco Pierre White when this traded as Frankie’s Cocktail Bar and Grill. The mansion also, arguably more nobly, saw service as a school and working men’s club. Only the now immaculate mosaic floor remains from the era of MPW at what is now Chiswick’s Villa di Geggiano, its name homage to the fourteenth-century palazzo, winery and outdoor theatre of custodians, the Bianchi Bandinelli family. Their influential tapestry of history saw their dynasty become the first producers to export Chianti to Britain in 1752; they also raised Pope Alexander III (elected 1159-81). Their picture-postcard Tuscan estate (and postcards are stacked on the bar) has, more recently, been recorded on numerous film reels, including Liv Tyler’s debut, ‘Stealing Beauty’, while their shiny wooden launch featured in the Talented Mr. Ripley.

The number of windows within the street-facing aspect of the glamorous restaurant serendipitously echoes the number of windows at the Italian palazzo, albeit Chiswick has jaunty trompe l’oeil shutters. Stunning spaces filled with work from seven artists as well as family photographs and trinkets unravel off the pergola-shaded terrace, including a private dining ‘art room’, cosy lounges, and the main restaurant with a tree, beside which is a private of acoustics but visible dining room, with club-like meeting rooms extending above, including one home to a humidor. These areas are as likely to magnetise A-list actors, the occasional politico seeking refuge from the fallout of their divisive stance on Brexit, and musicians from the Metropolis Recording studios opposite who may venture in through a special gate to potentially tinkle the ivories of the in-house Steinway, as they are customers bored of the stripped-down décor and single glazing of Hammersmith’s River Café. Because arguably, here, the food is better and the welcome warm.

The draw to wine lovers is the cellar of organic, biodynamic and small production (40,000 bottles yearly) wines of Villa di Geggiano. And a few of the mouth-blown, distinctively purple bottles from the eighteenth century are on display.

In charge of matters vinous is Veneto-born sommelier, Simone Zanibellato, who began his career in Tuscany at wine resort, Adler Thermae, replete with ‘Brunello wine baths’ before moving to London where he worked at Alloro, Mayfair (RIP) and Locanda Locatelli.

Begin with excellent Prosecco, Sommariva with near Giacometti figure-like slender grissini before entering the menu proper of Head Chef, Emanuele Morisi (formerly of Assaggi), who imports meats and cheeses direct from Tuscany. Dishes may include vitello tonnato allo zafferano, best partnered with tense, crisp, Villa di Geggiano Rosato Sangiovese. Of the match, Zanibellato notes, ‘it’s difficult to find a wine to work, on the same plate, with fish, meat and mayonnaise – this is cleansing.’ Also, Geggiano’s signature, vital Chianti Classico, encapsulating, says Zanibellato, ‘the meaning of Tuscany, and peoples’ hard work,’ with risotto ‘nduja, goats’ cheese and spinach. And, for two to share, the dry-aged bistecca alla Fiorentina T-bone, resting on a marble slab finds favour with Geggiano’s more structured Chianti Classico Riserva, best served following nine years maturation. Follow on with brandy-esque distillate Divino (double entendre) currently crafted by Geggiano’s neighbour, as well as their particularly approachable grappas. ‘The bianco is perfect for an ‘espresso corretto’ advises Zanibellato.

Zanibellato offers stemless tasting glasses to guests. These bear Tastevin-type dots and, convincingly, differently sized lips for male and female tasters, designed by sommelier Garbio Novembre and Luca Gardini.

Of the concise list, over 30 bottles cost fewer than £50 with smarter bottles such as Fontodi, Conterno, Fuligni and Le Macchiole north of £100; corkage is fair.

Also note the monthly meetings of Geggiano’s ‘Vodka Society’ and regular art dinners.

To see the WLC position and scores for this review click here

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