10 stellar South African Chenins

5. Ken Forrester Dirty Little Secret

SA’s ‘Mr Chenin’, Ken Forrester, launched Dirty Little Secret last year as a gentle dig at the natural wine movement, with what he sees as its dubious nomenclature, and its harping on about wild yeast fermentation and non-filtering as if it’s something new, when it’s actually as old as the hills and Forrester himself has been doing it since he started in 1994.
Anyway, the fruit for this beautiful wine comes from unirrigated bush vines planted in 1965 in Piekenierskloof. The vinification: spontaneous fermentation after extended soaking on skins and stalks. Into barrels, straight on to malolactic fermentation, then racked with a “tiny” addition of SO2 into “natural” 400L used French barrels for five months, then bottled unfiltered and unfined “to comply with the natural rules and laws”. It’s very natural, you see.

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