Mumm releases vintage collection

Champagne Mumm has released a new “Collection du Chef de Caves”, featuring magnums of its Cordon Rouge 1985, 1990 and 1996 vintages.

Released in very limited quantities – there are only 18 magnums of each vintage for the UK market – the three vintages represent some of the best to come out of Champagne in the last 30 years.

Each magnum is packaged individually and signed by cellar master, Didier Mariotti.

The 1985 has been hailed as one of the best vintages of the 1980s and Mariotti, said: “We used 75% Pinot Noir in the assemblage in 1985, as the quality of the Pinots was outstanding. When you taste the wines now, the mature Pinot aromas and flavours are extraordinary.”

The 1990 is even more Pinot dominant, 81% to only 19% Chardonnay, with Mariotti describing the wine now as, “dominated by aromas of dried fruits and fruit compote, in particular dates, nougat, acacia honey, caramel and raisin. An attractive vinous quality on the palate leads to a long rounded finish.”

The 1996 required “careful selection” to counteract the extremely high acidity levels in that vintage and there is a high proportion of fruit – largely Pinot Noir – from Bouzy, Ambonnay and Aÿ.

The resulting wine, said Mariotti: “Is now rich and smoky, with aromas of lemon zest, sirop baked plums and pears and hints of white tobacco”.

The 1996’s blend closely mirrors that of the more current 2006 release, with 64% of Pinot Noir in the former and 63% in the latter and then topped up with the necessary amount of Chardonnay.

Deputy cellar master, Magalie Marechal, noted that even if the 06 didn’t have the 96’s level of acidity, there were perhaps pointers in the 96 as to where the 06 would be in nearly 20 years.

She added that the 2009 would be the next vintage release from Mumm and that it would come out in France towards the end of this year – before the 2008 which is still in the house’s cellar.