Tasting notes:

This prestige cuvée is named in reference to the steepest climbs of the Tour de France, which Castelnau sponsors. Not cheap for a little-known name, but an absolutely top-notch Champagne, and one of my highest scorers of 2025. So, what do I love about it? It has the wonderful mix of reductive autolytic aromas combined with both dried and zesty fruit, giving it mouth-cleansing energy. In terms of flavours, there’s some struck match, charred bread and grilled nuts, and then further characters from old fireplace to fresh ginger, followed by bitter lemon and a finish with plenty of chalky phenolics to dry the palate. Deliciously refreshing, but age-worthy too. (Patrick Schmitt MW)