Non-vintage is ‘putting together a puzzle’ says Champagne Lallier
A Rosé has joined the Réflexion collection by Champagne Lallier, as cellar master Dominique Demarville finds new ways to express its vintages and terroirs.
With the launch of Réflexion R.010 in 2014, Champagne Lallier was a relatively early adopter of one of Champagne’s growing trends. While non-vintage wines remain undeniably central to the region’s production, their nature has subtly changed in the 21st Century.
For decades, it was assumed that non-vintage wines were defined by consistency. The bottle would be practically identical year in, year out and – if the winemaker had done their job correctly – the taste would be too.
In recent years, however, producers like Champagne Lallier have made bold choices and redefined the non-vintage wine. Instead of hiding difference, it is now embraced, with a new edition each year displaying a unique character – even if they are all variations on a recognisable theme.
Hence, Champagne Lallier releases a new edition in its Réflexion range almost every year. As you may well guess, the edition number refers to the base vintage; R.010 was predominantly from the 2010 vintage, for instance. Although all guided by Champagne Lallier’s signature style – defined as purity, freshness, intensity and depth– they are not homogeneous.
According to cellar master Dominique Demarville, the wines do not shy away from change. “Réflexion is really about capturing the constant flux of nature,” he explains, “and working with what each year brings to the table to weave it into our ongoing story at Lallier.”
It is in that context that Réflexion R.021 arrives. Given the spirit of constant flux, the latest Champagnes from the house have subtly pushed its winemaking to new heights.
A year of growth for the Réflexion collection
The new wines, based on the 2021 vintage, mark a milestone for the Réflexion collection in several ways. The first milestone perhaps explains the others: the cuvées are the first that Demarville has overseen from harvest to bottle.
Under his care, the Réflexion range at Champagne Lallier has expanded beyond a single wine. The R.021 Brut Rosé, for Demarville, has meant an opportunity to express the vintage and Champagne Lallier’s terroirs even more completely.
“2021 was a milestone year,” he says, “as we introduced a rosé variant to the Réflexion range, marking an evolution in our winemaking approach. This bold decision allows us to fully reflect the natural variations to be expressed.
“Each wine in the Réflexion range, from the R.021 Brut to the new R.021 Brut Rosé, is crafted using a majority of grapes from the same year’s harvest, making them siblings in a unique family of wines,” he continues. ‘Though they vary in grape mix and style, all are born from a single vision – to vividly express that year’s terroir. This shared origin ties the wines together, showcasing how different blends can interpret the same environmental character in distinct ways.”
In both cuvées a further subtle evolution has taken place with this release. For the first time, the wines contain Pinot Meunier (7% each), adding roundness and a distinct fruit character to the wines.
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In short, the Réflexion R.021 wines represent new approaches, but all as refinements of the guiding winemaking philosophy.
“The R.021 Brut Rosé now fully embraces the Réflexions philosophy – our way of honouring terroir through Champagnes that balance each harvest’s individuality with harmony year after year,” explains Louise Dennett, managing director of House of Cognac & Champagne at Campari Group. “By pairing Rosé’s brightness with Lallier’s signature depth, we are delighted to share a modern, elegant expression with Champagne lovers.”
Moreover, the two wines, as well as the maison’s Blanc de Blancs are now released in a unique proprietary bottle, described by Dennett as a “refined design”. The Champagnes’ presentation is matching the refinement in the bottle.
Two R.021 cuvées in profile
The wines therefore serve as proud flagbearers for the maison. With the 2021 season starting poorly, however, there was no guarantee it would even be produced.
“In 2021, after a challenging start to the season, a timely gift from nature transformed our prospects,” Demarville explains. “After a wet start, the return of the sun at the end of spring dried the vineyards and revitalised the grapes just in time for harvest. This change brought out exceptional finesse and freshness in the grapes, qualities that we captured meticulously in the Réflexion blend.”
Those blends – roughly equal parts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, plus the dash of Pinot Meunier – are vinified with elegance in mind. Most of the wine is fermented in stainless steel vats at 18°C, a vital stage in preserving the grapes’ aromas.
However, a small percentage (8% of the Brut and 7% of the Rosé) of each blend ferments and ages in oak on the fine lees. The process enhances texture in the wines, as well as lending a subtle woody note. Malolactic conversion then takes place for the majority of the blend, providing further textural interest and softening the acidity.
Thus the Brut stands out for its lively citrus nose of lime and mandarin, but touches of hazelnut and brioche evidence its depth and complexity on the structured palate. The Rosé, meanwhile, has an aromatic profile of blood orange, kumquat and red fruits, though again balanced by those more mature flavours and richness in the mouth.
Fittingly for the current festive season, each pairs well with indulgent dishes. The Brut, being a touch brighter, lends itself to fish with citrus, langoustines or seasonal vegetables in a tart or a risotto. The Rosé is a perfect aperitif, but also comes into its own with platters of seafood: lobster, crayfish or king crab.
It is a luxurious proposition, to be sure. Then again, it is befitting the care that Demarville has put into the wines.
“Making these champagnes has been a journey of meticulous attention to detail and a deep respect for the unique qualities of each harvest,” he reflects. “Our goal is to express the purest essence of our terroir in every bottle.
“It’s a bit like putting together a puzzle where each piece represents a different year’s character, yet together, they form a complete picture that’s distinctly Lallier. For me, Réflexion embodies the heart of what we do – it’s innovative, yet deeply rooted in our heritage.”
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