Inside the London bar turning ancient artefacts into cocktails
Amelie Maurice-Jones finds skilful cocktails and pastel-pink peace in Battersea’s newly-opened rooftop bar, Pérola. Its manager Michela Castiglioni talks through the artefact-inspired cocktail list, and claims that while hospitality is in a “delicate state” where small mistakes “can be fatal,” she’d still recommend opening a bar in 2025: “If you wait for the ‘perfect’ time, you’ll never open one. You need to be a little bit reckless to do it at all.”
I’m halfway down Oxford Circus tube station before I realise I left my phone charger in Caffè Nero. The straps of my backpack stab my shoulders as I reroute back, before continuing my trek through humid, spitting rain, sardine-tin tubes and crowds of miserable, grey commuters as I make my way to Battersea on a Tuesday evening, take the lift up the 15th floor of Radisson Hotels’ art’otel, and step directly into the hush of a pastel-toned, art-deco Narnia. Truly, it’s an uno reverse.
This is Pérola, Battersea’s newest cocktail bar that officially opened on 1 October, on the rooftop of the 5* hotel, which is largely designed by artist Jaime Hayon. From the plush furniture, pillars and hooded lamps which moonishly glinting over each circular table, it’s all blush pink, muted orange and salmon red; all soft curves and rounded lines, and the effect is calming, as if the space itself is inviting you to leave your roughness – the day’s sharp edges – on the ground floor.
Sky-high on the hotel rooftop, it’s hard to connect with the stressed-out mechanics of the city down below. The peaks of Battersea Power Station loom, otherworldly, in neon purple, and the décor, too, is mythic: on the wall, a larger-than-life fish (terracotta-red, possibly mackerel) smokes a cigar; silver shapes drip from the ceiling like a giant’s misplaced earring. There’s an impressive view of London’s skyline, sure – but zoom forwards for an intimate snapshot into people’s open windows: in adjacent buildings unmade beds, swept-up offices, chaotic kitchens, as dwellers wind down for the day.
Art meets mixology
Inspired by 12 unique artifacts from around the world, the bar menu happily helps transport the guest far far away. Highlights include Antikythera (named after the ancient Greek computer used to forecast astronomical eclipses) which is a blend of olive-oil washed Renais Gin, oregano mastiha, caper, lemon and cucumber, to Faberge Eggs – a blend of Absolut Elyx, Cacao Blanc, mint, maple Verjus and Telmont Brust Reserve topped with orange foam. I am pleased by the fruity, fresh Lascaux Caves, – made from Lillet rosé, FAIR vodka strawberry yoghurt lavender tonka – which comes with a large, square ice cube embossed with a mini handprint which “carries the spirit of [the caves’] ancient expressions”.
“I was looking into something that would connect to the ‘art’ side of things here in the hotel, without necessarily being too literal,” bar manager Michela Castiglioni tells the drinks business. “I wanted something less subject to interpretation, like visual art, but something manmade that evoked more feelings and had a hue of mystery.” After landing on ‘artifacts’ as the focus, Castiglioni picked “evocative” objects that “translated more easily into a liquid, flavour and smell”.
Pérola – meaning ‘pearl’ in Portuguese – also offers a selection of small-plates, crafted by the Portuguese restaurant, JOIA, headed up by chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, in which the bar sits. We sample a selection, from octopus tacos with black aioli, chervil and red pepper coulis, to the surprisingly sweet and dainty Sao Jorge cheese & pear tarts. The highlight is the umami-rich squid ink croquetas – the umami tartness balanced by creamy aioli.
Suggested pairings
“The dishes were chosen to complement the cocktails and reflect JOIA’s identity within the new Pérola concept,” explains Castiglioni, who is also alumnus of Soho’s Disrepute and Fazenda. “The menu focuses on elevated, easy-to-eat bar food with Iberian heritage designed for perfect balance with each drink.”
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She picks her favourite food and cocktail pairings: “The Jamon Croquetas are paired with a cocktail featuring coriander seed and passion fruit, whose zesty acidity cuts through the richness of the ham and béchamel. The Beetroot Tartare Cone is matched with an earthy, vegetal cocktail, creating depth and harmony. Meanwhile, the Octopus Taco pairs with a smoky, citrus-forward drink, which brightens the dish and refreshes the palate.”
And while there’s certainly a theatrical aspect (you can’t get away from the fact that the Faberge Egg arrives in a massive red egg), for Castiglioni, the liquid is where real craft shines. “Those big, over-the-top serves with smoke and fire are starting to fade a bit, making room for a cleaner, more elegant style,” she says. “That said, interaction and discovery are still key for guest experience. I love when guests engage with a drink when there’s a small detail that sparks curiosity or conversation.”
Don’t dwell on the past
Standing out as a bar in London, where there are thousands of glitzy establishments, Brexit and Covid leading to a hospitality recruitment drought and customers drinking less. These are the three main challenges Pérola is facing, echoing struggles felt across the sector. But Castiglioni doesn’t let it get her down. “That shift pushes us to focus even more on quality, creativity and offering value through the overall experience.”
On my visit, there are three things that make Pérola particularly unique: (i) the church-esque vastness of the space, (ii) the quiet (although this isn’t a constant – with DJ sets and music events throughout the week), and (iii) the rounded pastel theme – an antithesis to the dimly-lid, speakeasy-esque hubs which are more popular across the city.
“The key is not to dwell on what hospitality used to be, the ‘good old days’ when people were queuing up for bar jobs and drinking out was the main form of socialising,” Castiglioni philosophises. “Things have changed, and that’s okay. The important thing is to adapt and stay open-minded, to understand the new reality rather than resist it. It might look tough at times, but change also brings opportunities to evolve and find new ways to connect with guests.”
A delicate balance
But, she adds, the sector is in “such a delicate state that every decision carries real consequences for the business,” with two hospitality sites shutting per day across the country in the first half of the year. Even small mistakes – albeit in pricing, waste management or PR – “can be fatal”. She carries on: “In an industry that relies entirely on people, the pressure is immense, because what might seem minor human error can quickly have a major impact on the bottom line.”
It might surprise you that Castiglioni would still recommend opening a bar in 2025. “Bar owners I know would say: if you wait for the ‘perfect’ time to open a bar, you’ll never open one. You need to be a little bit reckless to do it at all. The key is to focus on what you bring to the table rather than the circumstances you’re stepping into.”
Anyway, I’m not opening a bar. And the circumstances I have stepped into are soft hues, potted plants and an expansive overview of the London skyline. Castiglioni hopes guests leave Pérola feeling “joyful, satisfied and a little enchanted, and like stepping back into the real world with the feeling that they’ve just returned from a brief, unforgettable journey.” When I step out, I feel like I’ve woken up from a short nap and a sweet dream. She’s spot on.
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