Is ‘blouge’ the answer to Bordeaux’s problems?
In his ongoing quest for solutions to Bordeaux’s current difficulties, db’s Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay tastes an iconoclastic new wine from Jacques Lurton and Vignobles André Lurton, ‘J’.
Who says Bordeaux is stuffy, traditional and can’t innovate? Actually, quite a few people when you think about it … And it’s not a great image, above all today.
The detractors need to taste Jacques Lurton’s new creation. It’s a little different; indeed, it’s a lot different. It’s ‘blouge’, a neologism that concatenates ‘blanc’ and ‘rouge’ and sounds almost as bad in French as it does in English – but which, at least when it comes from Jacques Lurton, tastes a lot better than both.
The wine itself is an entirely new creation, sourced from two of Vignobles Andre Lurton’s properties in Pessac-Léognan, Château de Rochemorin and its classed growth near neighbour Château La Louvière. It’s made from the co-fermentation of Cabernet Franc (from de Rochemorin) and Sauvignon Blanc (from La Louvière), the latter coming from a vigorous but late-ripening plot held back to make possible the co-fermentation.
It could be seen as a rather mischievous and very contemporary play on the idea of Cabernet Sauvignon itself, Jacques Lurton explains to me with that characteristically elusive smile of his. This is because it is forged from the co-vinification of the two grape varieties whose union in the 18th century is responsible for the varietal that is arguably Bordeaux’s greatest invention. So this is, almost literally, a deconstructed and provocatively reconstructed version of Cabernet Sauvignon. Difficult times call for original measures!
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After vinification, the wine is aged for 16 months in a ceramic egg – with the tannins, initially quite raspy and abrasive, softening considerably to reveal a wine that is fragrant, crisp, fruit-driven, and lifted by a vibrant and almost pulsating freshness. Neither truly red nor truly white, ‘J’ dusts off Bordeaux’s crusty image to reveal a somewhat more playful side.
In keeping with the spirit of iconoclasm that courses through its veins, Jacques suggests you serve this chilled, ideally between 10 and 12 degrees. It is presented in a stoneware bottle – which is both excellent at helping the wine retain its freshness on a hot summer’s day and which can be nicely repurposed as a rather stylish water vessel. It is available directly from Vignobles André Lurton’s website and currently retails for €20 per bottle.
Is ‘blouge’ the answer to Bordeaux’s problems? No, of course it isn’t. But the liberty of expression, the playfulness and the creativity that it expresses might just be.
‘J’ (Vignobles André Lurton) 2023 (Vin de France; 85% Cabernet Franc; 15% Merlot; 13% alcohol; bottle in a rather snazzy stoneware vessel). Utterly unique. This is a wine that takes a certain getting used to – but that’s the point. It also needs time to come to life (a decanter helps greatly). Sappy, aromatically explosive, ultra-fresh and lifted. Serving this chilled reinforces the bright and crunchy natural crispness of the fruit. But it’s also good to follow its slow evolution as it opens, breathes and warms up a little. It’s actually best served from big glasses that give space for the aromatic profile to develop. Very Cabernet Franc, with the Sauvignon Blanc almost serving to underscore and reinforce some of the delicate natural leafiness of the varietal (it’s role is important here but it’s the chorus responding to the diva!). Blueberries, red cherry, raspberry, a little slightly shy cassis note that builds with aeration, blood orange, white and rose peppercorns and a delicate white florality. There’s wild sage too. On the palate, again the cool serving temperature accentuates the sense of intensity and it also underscores the pleasing granularity of the (limestone) tannins. There’s quite an impressive sense of amplitude on the attack, though the gentle tannins draw the fruit out over the palate and bring it back to an ever more linear central spine. Slender but long on the finish with an essential juicy freshness and a brush of tannin that together provide an eloquent sign-off.
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