From Moqueca to Château Margaux: Rafael Cagali makes waves at Maré
Last month, the chef behind two-Michelin-starred Da Terra launched a restaurant in seaside town Hove that weaves together his Italian heritage, Brazilian upbringing and Sussex terroir. He’s amazed by how quickly locals have embraced Maré, with a “playful” wine list piquing interest from guests that are “curious, creative and willing to try something different”. Amelie Maurice-Jones reports.
“Maré is about bringing together flavours and traditions that inspire me the most,” Rafael Cagali tells the drinks business. Throughout his career, the two-Michelin-starred chef has shrugged off advice that you should stick to tradition. Instead, he believes in blending influences and making food personal. In line with this tenet, Maré fuses his Italian roots with Brazilian influence and Sussex’s seasonal produce. In a nutshell, it’s “simple and ingredient-led cooking,” Cagali sums up. “It’s playful as well, with personal touches”.
Born in São Paulo to Brazilian and Italian grandparents, both cuisines celebrate “freshness, boldness and seasonality,” he points out. “In Brazil, there are a lot of influences from all over Europe, and there are a lot of Italians – my family included.”
Maré opened officially in Hove, last month, in the Church Road site once home to El Bolillo. The kitchen is run day-to-day by former Da Terra alumnus Ewan Waller, with front-of-house operations spearheaded by Cagali’s partner Charlie Lee, and former Restaurant Story somm Jake Garstang.
“It’s always a bit nerve-wracking opening somewhere new, especially when it’s somewhere you don’t live,” Cagili opens up. But he’s taken aback by how quickly locals in the East Sussex seaside town have embraced the eatery, which can host up to 38 guests. “The warmth from the community has been a wonderful surprise. It’s really exciting to see the guests connecting with what we are doing.”
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Enticing a curious crowd
He’s excited by Brighton & Hove’s “energy and openness”, with guests “curious, creative and willing to try something different”. Then, of course, there’s the excellent local produce on his doorstep: “the seafood is fantastic but you also get great vegetables like asparagus, heritage tomatoes and mushrooms.” Named after the Portuguese word for ‘tide’, the restaurant’s menu will ebb and flow, like waves, with the seasons, structured from small bites (like toasted brioche, onion croustade), through to hot and cold small plates (like salt baked beetroot with mackerel & chervil, pulled lamb shoulder Manioc tacos), to mains (e.g. BBQ brill, clams & pil pil, lobster rice & ox tongue) shares (who can say no to cassava chips?) and desserts (olive oil sponge with red Mayan chocolate, or cheese & guava, for instance).
It’s not all about the food, though. Sussex sparkling wines “are world-class too.” Plenty shine on the wine list: There’s Hundred Hills Rosé de Saignée, Danbury Ridge Chardonnay (which, at the moment, Maré’s most popular wine) and Rathfinny Classic Cuvée, which are served by the glass. A handful of fortified wines, including Barbadillo En Rama, sherries and rare picks like Château Margaux and Seña from Chile also feature, and there’s also a sparkling tea section, spotlighting Saicho and Copenhagen Sparkling Tea.
‘Eclecticism with intent’
The former Fat Duck chef describes the wine list as “playful, layered and intentional, with a nod to English producers and the coastal terroir.” What makes it playful? “We serve Château Margaux and Kiwi Caiprinhas on the same night and both feel at home,” he justifies. “The playfulness is in the mix: wines from Georgia next to Burgundy, skin-contact alongside Provençal rosé, aged Madeiras next to crisp Albariños. Eclecticism with intent.”
The list is curated to echo the food menu. The Moqueca-style seafood stew with coconut and lime pairs “beautifully” with Symington & Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho, for instance: “the wine’s saline tension and stone fruit notes lift the dish while respecting its richness.”
Asked whether he’ll be gunning for a Michelin star, the chef says the decision’s out of his hands. “Our focus is on creating a place that people love and want to return to. If this recognition comes, of course it would be an honour, but it’s not our main goal.” But looking to the future, Cagali hints at exciting plans. From seasonal menu shifts to producer collabs and special events, he promises, “there’s lots to come at Maré!”
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