‘People want discovery’: Why are wine dinners taking off at London restaurants?
A surge of high-end London restaurants, from the Connaught to the Dorchester, are set to host intimate dinners paired with fine wine. Pavyllon’s head chef says these experiences offer “a story on the table”, and believes wine dinners are growing from niche events to “integral parts of luxury dining”. Amelie Maurice-Jones reports.
Once a rare experience, if you head to London’s restaurant circuit today, you’ll have no problem finding a seat at dinner where whole focus of the tasting menu designed to make wine sing. In October, the Connaught will pair a bespoke five-course set menu with Biondi-Santi wine, while the Dorchester’s teaming up with Tuscany’s Marchesi Antinori, Claridge’s with Chalres Heidsieck. Come November, and Claridge’s is hosting a dinner with Mayacamas wines, Pavyllon with Biondi Santi and the Dorchester with Domaine Chanson.
There’s also Pavyllon London, who’s first series kicks off on Thursday 9 October, with wines from family-run Sicilian estate, Donnafugata. Head chef Benjamin Ferra Y Castell has crafted a six-course tasting menu to showcase the journey through Sicily’s terroirs, from Mount Etna’s volcanic slopes, to Pantellaria’s coastline. Guests at Yannick Alléno’s modern French restaurant will be invited to the kitchen counter to enjoy the Michelin-starred tasting menu and curated wine list.
Across the capital, wine dinners are taking off as “diners want discovery, not just dinner,” Castell tells the drinks business. “They want to learn, taste, talk, and post about it after.” And a wine dinner offers just that – “a story on the table”.
Kevin Morand, director of food & beverage at Four Seasons Hotel, agrees that wine dinners offer a narrative; “food and wine working in harmony often with the winemaker present”. He adds that it aligns with London dining habits, with consumers increasingly curious, adventurous, and open to discovering niche producers, aligning with db’s research that today’s consumers want fun food and drink pairings that still champion luxury.
London’s flourishing wine scene
Food and wine is a love story as old as time. But, in London, it’s gained a new lease of life. In March, the capital bagged second place in a report ranking fine wine dining in global cities – outstripping Paris – with British Vogue questioning, ‘why is every restaurant in London a wine bar now?’ So what’s going on? Today, Castlell believes there’s a deeper connection between those who make the food, and those who make the wine. “Chefs and winemakers design the evening together so the food and wine speak the same language,” he says. “It feels personal, not formulaic, with the sommelier and chef working more closely than ever to match dishes and wines.”
For Morand, what’s changed is that, in 2025, guests want to understand the people and culture behind the wines, rather than just the taste. “Producers are often present, creating a direct connection between guest and winery,” he explains. “Partnerships now focus on boutique, sustainable and terroir-driven producers rather than large-scale houses.”
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Both Castell and Morand believe these intimate wine dinners will flourish in London’s restaurant scene, as long as chefs and wineries keep it “fresh and real”. Morand says: “Wine dinners are growing from niche events to integral parts of luxury dining. Guests increasingly expect curated experiences rather than static menus and so we anticipate more cross-cultural collaborations between restaurants and winemakers. We’re excited to be a part of it.”
Castell sums up Donnafugata’s “volcanic, coastal, expressive” wines as “pure Sicily”. He continues, “they have soul and finesse, which is exactly what I want my food to have.” Morand adds that Donnafugata’s broad array of wines – from elegant whites to structured reds – perfectly pair with Pavyllon’s modern French cuisine.
And when asked their favourite pairing, both chef and director opt for the same pick: the red mullet carpaccio, and Donnafugata’s Vignia di Gabri, which brings a fresh and aromatic lift to every bite.
What’s in it for the winery?
Morand lists the benefits of wine dinners for the winemaker: “It’s exposure to a highly engaged audience who value craftsmanship and quality as well as a chance to showcase wines in their best light, alongside carefully designed dishes. It also strengthens the winery’s presence in key international markets like London.”
And Castell goes on to describe what’s in it for the restaurant: “A bottle on a shelf is anonymous – a bottle poured alongside a dish created for it is unforgettable,” he sums up. The way a somm introduces a wine also “turns the dinner into a show”, adding an exciting theatrical element.
Offering his two cents for restaurants looking to start wine dinners, Castells advises “do not fake it. Partner with a winery you genuinely love, build a story, and let the food and wine shine together.”
Going forward, he’ll look to champion other regions in the wine dinners. He’s excited, in particular, by Greece, Georgia, South America and South Africa; regions with “deep roots and heritage” that still feel “new and full of discovery” in London. When it comes to picking a winery partner, it’s all about philosophy: “If their wines have personality and their values align with mine, it is a match.”
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