Château du Tertre partners with Ulysse Cazabonne to launch ‘iconoclastic’ white blend
With the recent unveiling of the new Médoc blanc appellation and its privileging of classic Bordeaux varietals (Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon and Muscadelle), it might be thought that days of wacky blends of white varietals from leading left-bank producers were over.
Not at all. The latest and, indeed, one of the boldest of such iconoclastic offerings comes from the Margaux fifth growth Château du Tertre. It was unveiled a month ago and is a joint venture with the historic Bordeaux négociant, Margaux-based Ulysee Cazabonne, (which is owned by Chanel, who also owns Château Rauzan Ségla and Château Canon).
The wine, Alba by Tertre, originates from a plot of 2.5 hectares in heart of the property, in the middle of which stands a majestic white oak tree – Albus Quercus. The tree, a symbol of light and renewal, is the inspiration for the wine that bears its name.
Alba by Tertre is unusual in two respects in the Médoc. First, it comes from a terroir that is excellent for white varietals rather than simply not particularly auspicious for red varietals. And second, those varietals are themselves unusual and distinctive – indeed, in their combination, unique.
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The wine is based on Chardonnay, which in 2024 comes in at just under half of the blend. The balance is Sauvignon Blanc (36%) and Viognier (16%). After hand-picking, manual sorting and whole bunch pressing the first pressings start their vinification in stainless steel before being transferred mid-fermentation to French oak barrels. Aging is on the lees, half in concrete eggs, half in new oak barrels for 6 months.
The first release is of just 2500 individually numbered bottles.
As Cynthia Capelaere, Château du Tertre’s director comments, “we wanted to capture the innovative spirit that drives Château du Tertre. Alba by Tertre is a wine of freedom, born from a magnificent plot and from a desire shared with Ulysse Cazabonne to offer something different: a great wine made for pleasure, fresh and accessible, but with the hallmark rigour of a classified growth”.
Tasting notes
Alba by Tertre 2024 (Vin de France; 46% Chardonnay; 38% Sauvignon Blanc; 16% Viognier; all sourced from a single plot of 2. 5 hectares in the midst of the du Tertre vineyard producing, after strict sorting, just 2500 individually numbered bottles). A fascinating wine that requires a little deconstruction. This is closed at first and actually had me searching for a more narrow-framed Sydonius glass where the elements finally seem to coalesce and come together. Aromatically, this is delicate and subtle, yet complex too, with crushed tomato stalk, blood orange, white pear, gooseberry, yuku and lemon zest intermingling enticingly with the more exotic elements. On the palate this is, if anything, more fascinating still – as we have a battle royal unfolding between the natural richness and concentration that comes from the Viognier, above all, and the racy, energetic acidity from the Sauvignon Blanc. The Chardonnay – the dominant varietal at just under 50 per cent of the blend – is the via media that provides the frame and holds the rest together. In a way, it tempers and mediates the conflict! The overall effect is a very fresh, vibrant and dynamic wine that definitely deserves to be appreciated in its youth but that I would actually seek to hold for at least a further 6 months. It’s not a bad idea to carafe this too. 92+.
