‘Benchmark’ French wines prove their relevance to the UK

VIN, the year’s flagship tasting for French wine in the UK, proved that the country still has plenty to offer the UK market, through both its classic stalwarts and innovative new products.

A long relationship is a wonderful thing. The heady rush may have subsided – there are likely fewer trips to the florist or impromptu weekend breaks – but what comes after is arguably more beautiful: love, support, understanding and deep affection.

As close neighbours and key figures in developing the global wine trade, the UK and France certainly have a long relationship. If VIN’s latest edition – Business France’s comprehensive tasting that took place in London in early January – is anything to go by, there is still plenty of love between the two nations. The day opened with the French Champion Awards, a celebration of those in the UK who go above and beyond in promoting French products. Hosted by self-described “not-so-secret francophile” Natalie Earl, the awards proved that France is not passé for the UK drinks trade. Indeed, it is a permanent fixture in the nation’s wine sector.

The list of winners and nominees was striking for its balance. New contenders demonstrated that there is still more to explore in France, but equally striking were returning champions defending their crowns. French wine, for such winners, is evidently not a passing fad, but rather sits at the core of their businesses.

“The outstanding nominees for the 2026 French Champion Awards highlight the UK wine trade’s remarkable commitment to French wines,” commented Pauline Gauthier, head of food and drink at Business France UK & Ireland. “From dedicated importers to enthusiastic retailers and communicators, every finalist has contributed significantly to ensuring France remains the UK’s top wine supplier by value.”

That last point is the key one. France is such a well-established fixture in the UK wine trade that it is easy to forget its importance. French wine sales totalled £860 million in 2024, meaning retailers cannot ignore the country, and vignerons can still find new drinkers for their wines.

“There is still opportunity,” agreed Pandora Mistry, senior wine and spirits adviser at Business France. “French products are the benchmark for the UK.”

On the cutting edge

Does that persistent presence, however, mean that the spark has gone? Have the UK and France settled into a comfortable rut? Certainly not, on the basis of VIN 2026. With a wide range of producers and importers presenting their wines, they frequently displayed bold new visions for the country. Moreover, those stories appeared from unusual suspects.

The breadth of the tasting – a deliberate curation by Business France – meant some regions immediately caught attention for their off-the-beaten-track wines. Cave d’Aleria, for instance, offered a taste of Corsica, one of the few parts of France not commonly seen on UK shelves. A raft of Languedoc producers, meanwhile, showed the region’s inherent versatility, thanks to its range of varieties and appellations.

Yet iconic regions were offering new ideas too, often subverting expectations by pivoting to lesser-known styles. The likes of Celliers d’Orfée (Corbières), Terranéa (the Rhône) and Domaine du Crêt de Bine (Beaujolais) all presented in-demand white wines from their black grape heartlands. Lucien Albrecht, meanwhile, has ramped up production of Crémant d’Alsace, a style it pioneered in the 1970s, to meet modern demand for fizz.

Some producers subverted expectations with something approaching rebellious glee. From Bordeaux, Château Brown presented an amphora-aged Pessac-Léognan, while Vignobles Artigue offered a zero-sulphite red bottled under an innovative cork that eliminates ullage.

“It’s a new age in Bordeaux – we can do what we want,” commented Alexandre Artigue. It was a sentiment that seemed equally applicable around the room; whether making the dependable classics UK drinkers love or crafting modern, innovative wines, French producers have the confidence and energy to excite the market.

Lasting relationships

The wines, however, are only half the story. As Mistry put it: “It’s not just the product; it’s the people behind it.” Thus, VIN made sure that both exhibitors and visitors felt welcomed and ready to make long-lasting connections.

Central to this year’s offering was a new addition: a wine tasting-cum-silent disco led by communicator and author Tom Surgey. For anyone daunted by the prospect of navigating the roomful of producers, his six wine walks split the producers into tours. Each had a different angle: for instance, stars of famed appellations or the “trailblazers”, in Gauthier’s words, of sustainable winemaking. Amid the bustling tasting, the crowd listened to him through headphones as he shepherded the group through individual wines as snapshots of French excellence.

Yet if you returned to the stands for more in-depth conversations, the tone was equally welcoming. Many producers spoke with love of the UK market, with several actively seeking a return to the country post-Brexit. There were also those, such as Champagne Francis Orban, who emphasised the usefulness of the tasting in finding not just any business partner, but one to offer long-term prospects. It is indicative of the positive mindset that exhibitors brought. “It’s a hard market,” commented Claire Prothon, senior wine and spirits adviser at Business France, “but people come with a can-do attitude.”

Even in an era of video calls and digital catalogues, it seems there is still an appetite for such in-person events. “It is all about relationships,” summarised Gauthier, “creating those connections, sharing the passion and storytelling.

“Without meeting in person and having those conversations, you do not get any of that across. VIN is a place for discoveries, shared industry insights, storytelling and meaningful business connections.”