Chef Q&A: Adejoké Bakare

In 2024, Adejoké Bakare, the British Nigerian-born head chef of Chishuru in London, became the first black woman in the UK to earn a Michelin star. Drawing on Yoruba, Igbo and Hausa traditions, she talks to Amelie Maurice-Jones about building a career rooted in “heat, heart and heritage”.

You ran your own fish and chip cart at university. Why start there?

I wanted something that would appeal to expat students. Local food was in plentiful supply, so I wanted something outside the norm.

When did you first want to become a chef?

I’d always dreamed of having my own restaurant, but honestly I had never thought about it seriously until 2019, when I entered the Brixton Village competition to win a three-month pop-up, which later turned into a permanent affair.

What’s been the biggest ‘pinch me’ moment of your career?

Being called on-stage to get my Michelin star jacket in Manchester, February 2024. I was completely shell-shocked, and Michel Roux Jr had to step in to rescue me with a big hug.

What’s one West African ingredient everyone needs to know about?

Yaji is a spice blend that’s traditionally used on grilled meats (also known as suya spice), but it’s really versatile – we use it in everything from sauces to our mezcal cocktail.

How do Yoruba, Igbo and Hausa cuisines come together on your menu?

My dad is Yoruba, my mum is Igbo and I grew up in the north eating Hausa food. So I’ve been exposed to all three cooking traditions. It’s quite common for Nigerian guests to come in, point at a menu item and ask: “What’s that?” They are three entirely separate cuisines – it’s like going to a good restaurant in Sicily and asking for lasagne, but worse. We also occasionally have dishes from other tribes (like Ibibio or Ewe) on the menu – I like to mix it up.

Any challenges translating West African food to a British audience?

British customers now know that if they go to an authentic Thai restaurant, the food will be spicy. They don’t know that about West African restaurants and it’s frequently a surprise!

Pick a drink from your drinks list, and the dish you’d pair it with.

I love a Savagnin from the Jura. I’d drink one we have by the glass from Fumey Chatelain with our moinmoin (a steamed black-eyed bean cake with cod & scallop boudin and red pepper & anchovy sauce).

Sum up your cooking style in three words.

Heat, heart, heritage.

You’ve previously said you don’t like it when your food is described as ‘elevated’. Why is that?

West African food doesn’t need elevating. It’s good as it is.

West African food is booming in London. Why do you think that’s happening now?

Michelin gave stars to both Chishuru and Akoko in the same year, and it reflects their openness, and determination to recognise new cuisines. Hats off to them.

Can you name a black female chef who should be on everyone’s radar?

My dear friend Nokx Majozi has just been named chef-in-residence at Fallow, and that’s a good excuse to get down there and try some of her wonderful pastry creations.

Who’s been the most influential person in your culinary career?

Jackson Boxer. There wouldn’t be Chishuru without him – simple as that. He fought for me to win the original Brixton Village competition, and carried on supporting me throughout my journey.

Do you have any favourite memories involving a guest?

So many. Often my favourites are multigenerational tables of West African families who are proud to see the food of their heritage presented in the way that we do.

What’s the best thing about the UK restaurant industry right now?

Pay levels have been shooting up in recent years, which – while a challenge for operators – is great for attracting more and more people into the industry. Working conditions in many cases have improved massively too. Hospitality can be a brilliant career, and the UK restaurant industry can do more to shout about this.

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