12 magnificent rule-breaking Riojas
Some of Rioja’s best bottles bypass the traditional and tightly-controlled regulation system that categorises the wines by ageing time, and we have selected a top 12 of these rule-breakers, which are called Vinos de Autor.
All these wines hail from 2025’s Rioja Masters – the largest Rioja-only blind tasting in the UK – and comprise a set of delicious examples from just over £10 to almost £100, all of which gained a Gold medal or above.
What you will notice about the Vinos de Autor category of Riojas, which is an unofficial term that loosely translates as ‘signature wines’, is that they don’t feature the region’s usual terminology – Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva – and that’s because they mark a departure from the norm, ditching the mandatory barrel and bottle ageing durations set by the region’s consejo regulador.
That’s not always because they eschew the regulations entirely, but often it’s because they have been bottled to highlight something specific, be it a rare grape variety or a specific vineyard plot, often featuring very old bush vines.
Also, stylistically, they tend to mark a break with tradition, with a deep-colour and concentrated fruit characters, which contrast with the image of high-end Rioja as being brick red, with a medium body and a more oxidative, aged flavours, such as leather and spice, along with stewed cherry and orange zest.
Furthermore, these Vinos de Autor tend to feature the toasty notes from a relatively brief period spent ageing in new French oak, as opposed to the vanilla and coconut-like notes that can arise in Rioja Reservas and Gran Reservas as a result of long periods spent resting in American oak barrels.
In effect, Vinos de Autor represents a type of Super Rioja, where everything tends to be accentuated, and often with outstanding results, such as those in the powerful but balanced wines below.
So scroll down to read about our best rebellious Riojas, or click here to find out our favourite Reservas, or here to see our top-performing Gran Reservas, and here to discover all the medallists from The Rioja Masters 2025.
HOHNEN X LA ERALTA RIOJA NV
- Producer: Queserías La Eralta
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 13.5%
- Approx. retail price: £11
- Medal: Gold
A quirky label design immediately attracts attention to this bottle, and the wine inside does not disappoint. Quite deep ruby-hued, the wine has cranberry and pomegranate fruit with a spicy oak undertone and nuance of some whole-berry fermentation giving perfume. The mid-weight palate shows vibrant fruit, balanced by crisp acidity and silky-textured tannins, with a touch of tangerine zest on the finish. Excellent value and a great partner for carne asada with citrus, soy sauce and cumin accents. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)
YSIOS SELECCIÓN 2019
- Producer: Bodegas Ysios
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 15%9
- Approx. retail price: £30
- Medal: Gold
From vineyards in municipios local to the winery: Laguardia, Los Páganos, Lapeubla, Elvillar and a few others, where the more than 35-year-old vines are gobelettrained and dry-farmed, comes this fabulous example of Rioja Alavesa. Deep ruby-coloured, the wine exhibits rich black cherry and blackberry fruit and an overlay of oak, shown by tobacco, coffee and milk chocolate notes. Sweet-fruited, the palate has tangy acidity and linen-textured tannins, nicely integrated with the flavours and supporting the lengthy finish. A stylish wine that would beautifully match duck with pecan stuffing wrapped in bacon. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)
PROELIO GARNACHA 2023
- Producer: Bodega Proelio
- Grape variety: 100% Garnacha
- ABV: 14.5%
- Approx. retail price: £34
- Medal: Master
The vineyards comprising 90-year-old Garnacha vines are located in the municipios of Cárdenas and Bajarán at altitudes of 600m–700m altitude in the Alto Najerilla subzone. The soils are very deep sandy loam with ferrous-calcareous veins. The wine is deep ruby-coloured with bright cranberry, strawberry and cherry fruit overlaid with creamy-toasty oak notes. Sweet-fruited, the palate has bracing acidity and delicate, silky tannins supporting the flavours, which are layered and textured with spices coming through. An elegant wine that would be delicious with roast leg of lamb with a rub of garlic and dry mustard. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)
DOMINIO DE CAMPO VIEJO 2020
- Producer: Bodegas Campo Viejo
- Grape varieties: 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo
- ABV: 14%
- Approx. retail price: £21.50
- Medal: Gold
Complex aromas, slightly smoky with strawberry and black cherry fruit overlaying creamy vanilla and allspice, perhaps with some hints of mocha. On the palate it is concentrated and intense, with very good length. A modern style, but still with personality and typicity. Rich, rounded and delicious. (Siobhan Turner MW)
CAMPO VIEJO GARNACHA WINE EXPERIENCE COLLECTION 2023
- Producer: Bodegas Campo Viejo
- Grape variety: 100% Garnacha
- ABV: 14.5%
- Approx. retail price: £30
- Medal: Gold
A big, bold wine, very clean and youthful. The nose has overt sour cherry and redcurrant fruit, with hints of glacéd raspberries and angelica. The palate is very smooth and ripe, with silky tannins and a very soft texture, with some hints of spicy oak and a long finish. This is a joyful fruit bomb of a wine. (Siobhan Turner MW)
ORUBE SELECCIÓN DE FAMILIA 2019
- Producer: Orubea
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 14.7%
- Approx. retail price: £35
- Medal: Master
The deep ruby colour is matched by an intense and concentrated nose of blackberry fruit with hints of black plum and strawberry. There are undertones of hazelnut, with hints of vanilla, clove, cinnamon and mace. On the palate it is concentrated and finely balanced and with an elegant texture, a tannic grip in a velvet glove. A poised, harmonious and delicious wine, it would benefit from some time and food – roast lamb or a Christmas goose. (Siobhan Turner MW)
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VIÑEDOS DE SONSIERRA VIÑEDO VIEJO 2020
- Producer: Bodegas Sonsierra
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 13.5%
- Approx. retail price: £38
- Medal: Gold
A delicious example of an alternative style of Rioja that’s more about concentration and youth than delicacy and maturity. So expect ripe, fleshy sweet cherry fruit with a touch of blackberry jam and prunes, then toast and pepper, and a finish featuring notes of dark chocolate and firm, dry, dense tannins. An ideal wine for anything cooked on charcoal. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
RAMÓN BILBAO MIRTO 2019
- Producer: Bodegas Ramón Bilbao
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 14.3%
- Approx. retail price: £45
- Medal: Gold
A simply delicious Rioja with plenty of sweet red berry fruit, but also an energetic, medium-weight feel, along with freshness, suggesting this will age wonderfully. At its core is cherry and blood orange, complemented by spice and toast, some cedar wood too, then a firm finish, featuring some citrus zest and dry, grippy, fine tannin. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
RAMÓN BILBAO LALOMBA FINCA VALHONTA 2019
- Producer: Bodegas Ramón Bilbao
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 13.9%
- Approx. retail price: £72
- Medal: Gold
This remarkable varietal Tempranillo from a high-altitude prized plot is wonderfully bright and refreshing in style, despite containing a core of ripe fruit. Flavour-wise there’s plenty of fleshy cherry and blood orange, complemented by a touch of toast and vanilla too. As for the finish, that’s quite taut, with a youthful acidity, bringing a mouthwatering lift to a fruity expression. A Rioja to cellar or enjoy now with marbled red meat. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
VIÑA ZACO VIÑEDO SINGULAR 2020
- Producer: Bodegas Bilbaínas
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 15%
- Approx. retail price: £50
- Medal: Gold
An outstanding single-vineyard varietal Tempranillo with a wonderful mix of ripe, fleshy, sweet cherry fruit allied to notes of shoe leather and cracked pepper, prunes and blood orange, followed by cigar box and, finally, plenty of dry, mouth-coating tannins. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
EL RINCÓN DE LOS GALOS VIÑEDO SINGULAR 2019
- Producer: Bodegas Sonsierra
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 14%
- Approx. retail price: £70
- Medal: Gold
A powerful and instantly appealing top single-vineyard Rioja with a delicious mix of sweet, ripe cherry and toasted marshmallows, complemented by a note of fresh plums and then mouthwatering, ripe, but dense, dry tannins, which really linger and refresh the palate. Perfect for any marbled red meat, served pink with a charred crust. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
RAMÓN BILBAO GARNACHA 100 MESES HORMIGÓN 2015
- Producer: Bodegas Ramón Bilbao
- Grape variety: 100% Garnacha
- ABV: 14.2%
- Approx. retail price: £85
- Medal: Gold
A delicious opportunity to taste the wonders of old-vine Garnacha from Rioja in its unadulterated form – the grape is more commonly part of a blend. This excellent example is rich in sweet, ripe red berry and cherry fruit – there’s even a touch of raspberry jam – then some cigar box comes through, and a touch of burnt orange on the long, mouthwatering, finely tannic finish. A soft, fleshy but refreshing wine that would suit white meat-based dishes brilliantly – perhaps for the turkey at Christmas? (Patrick Schmitt MW)
YSIOS FINCA EL NOGAL 2020
- Producer: Bodegas Ysios
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 15%
- Approx. retail price: £73
- Medal: Master
A benchmark single-vineyard varietal Tempranillo expressing the wonders of old vines in this incredible wine region. Expect masses of powerful flavours, all in harmony, from cherry jam to chocolate, blackberry to cracked pepper, toast to cedar, and then a long finish, featuring a mouthwatering mix of orange zest and firm tannins. Enjoy with anything fresh from the grill. (Patrick Schmitt MW)
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Does the Vino de Autor category in Rioja need pinning down?
About the competition
With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Rioja Masters provides a chance for your wines to shine. The 2025 competition was judged on 17 September at COMO Halkin in London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolades – the titles of Rioja Master or Grand Master.
Please visit the Global Masters website for more information or, to enter future competitions, with a chance to appear in print and online, call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Aston at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com
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