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Lightning strikes twice as Brane Cantenac unveils Mosaïque

New wines from the grands crus classés of the 1855 classification are as rare as lightning strikes. And lightning, as we know, never strikes twice in the same place. Or so we used to think…

We live, of course, in interesting times and at Brane Cantenac, at least, lightning bolts from the heavens now see to come it pairs. For, not so long after the launch of its pioneering blanc sec, Henri Lurton has now unveiled a new terroir- and terrace-focused red, Mosaïque.

It is tiny in production and an exclusivity of the Bordeaux négociant, The Wine Merchant (TWM). I am one of the very few to have tasted it. The wine itself offers a distinct and fascinatingly different take on Brane’s unique terroir, bringing together as it does two parcels from the famous plateau de Brane, one each from Terrace 3 and Terrace 5 (for those of you with an infinitely fine-grained knowledge of the estate, those named Carabin and Derrière le Parc, respectively).

As its name suggests, the wine reflects and pays tribute to the diversity of the terroirs that together comprise this famous estate. Whilst the grand vin, of course, comes exclusively from Terrace 4, Mosaïque is different, drawing its fruit exclusively from single plots from Terrace 3 and Terrace 5.

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It embodies the significant and impressive savoir-faire of the team brought together at Brane under Henri Lurton’s direction. It is a wine shaped by fruit, charm, roundness, and expressiveness, very much in the spirit of the appellation of Margaux itself. While it has the structure to age, its true qualities reveal themselves beautifully in its youth.

The label has also been carefully considered and reflects the creativity of the partnership with TWM’s marketing team. The focus in on terroir with a visual design that highlights the vineyard parcels— a strong reflection of Brane’s philosophy that everything begins in the vineyard. The production is limited and the wine will retail for around €20 per bottle (all taxes paid).

Mosaïque de Brane Cantenac 2021 (Margaux; 50% Merlot; 46% Cabernet sauvignon; 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot; from 2 plots, one each from terrace 3 (Carabin) and terrace 5 (Derrière le Parc), vinified separately before blending and aging for 12 months in French oak barrels; 13% alcohol; an exclusivity of the Bordeaux négociant, The Wine Merchant). A fascinating new terroir-focussed expression of Brane Cantenac that gives us an insight into the diversity of soils that this iconic estate possesses. Fresh, bright, crisp and aromatic, this is wonderfully floral, light, aerial and lifted. It’s delicate yet elegant and poised and, as ever, the tannin management at this address is top drawer. Gracious, subtle and refined, this is a radiant expression of a much misunderstood and falsely maligned vintage. 91+.

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