Unfiltered: River Wood

At Louma, a destination retreat and working estate in Dorset’s Marshwood Vale, River Wood shapes lists grounded in the scent of the soil yet refined with global polish. From Cape Town to Perthshire via Hampshire, his journey now entwines with Louma’s vineyard, farmland and edible gardens, where sustainability, seasonality, and craft find clear expression in the glass. Douglas Blyde reports.

You’ve chosen rural Dorset after working in Hampshire and Perthshire. What is it about
the countryside which feeds you?

Always nature. Dorset’s coast, hills, and sunsets inspire me daily. At Louma, a farm microclimate gives our wines unexpected tropical notes, showing what the land can do when respected. I grew up in a South African seaside town, so being near the ocean feels like home. And country people remind me to keep Louma elegant but never stiff – luxury should feel generous and welcoming.

Dorset has its own brewing, distilling, and winemaking culture. How important is it for Louma’s drinks list to speak in a Dorset accent?

Very. With our own vineyard, Dorset is already in the glass. We’re also surrounded by exceptional producers – Langham, Lyme Bay, and some outstanding distilleries and breweries. The key is balance: celebrating what’s made on our doorstep while also offering the great classics from further afield. You serve the best of your community while sharing the wider world.

How do guests engage with the vineyard – and will you join the harvest?

They’re fascinated. Drinking wine from the very soil you stand on gives a sense of place no import can match. I’ll be out at harvest – it matters to be hands-on. Guests love knowing the story: the wine isn’t just a drink, it’s a piece of Louma they’ve experienced.

What are your plans for Louma’s wider wine programme?

Our role is to bring quality with a story behind every label, and to let guests discover what they love. At its heart are Louma’s own wines and the wider brilliance of British winemaking, alongside producers from further afield who are pushing boundaries sustainably. Above all, I don’t want the programme to feel like a lecture – it should be about pleasure and discovery.

At Heckfield Place you trialled a closed-loop, zero-waste beverage system. How has that
shaped your approach at Louma?

At Heckfield we cut waste to two bins: glass and compost. Everything else – citrus peels, herb stems, and kitchen offcuts – went into drinks. It taught me that sustainability isn’t about shortcuts, but rethinking processes. At Louma we reuse produce, source close to home, and ensure every ingredient has purpose. For me, that’s where luxury and sustainability meet: true luxury is knowing where something comes from, tasting the care in every sip. By reusing, respecting, and refining, we create drinks that are both thoughtful and indulgent.

From Chefs Warehouse in Cape Town to Thomas Keller’s Seabourn Grill, what advice has stayed with you?

From Keller’s team I learned discipline – giving 120% every day, no matter what. At Chefs Warehouse in Cape Town, I discovered how to pack complexity into a small bite or sip. Heckfield instilled creativity within boundaries, while Gleneagles showed me to treat every day like the FA Cup final – no complacency, ever. Across all those places, the common attribute in guests is curiosity: people want to be surprised, delighted, and cared for. They might not share the same tastes, but they all want to feel part of something special.

At Gleneagles you helped win major awards. Do they shape a programme, or just echo good work?

Awards are recognition, never the goal. At Gleneagles the focus was daily excellence and the guest in front of you – the accolades followed. It’s the same at Louma: if we care about every detail and create memorable experiences, recognition may come. But the real reward is a guest leaving happier than they arrived.

How do you train the team to make service memorable?

Service is connection, not choreography. Anyone can learn to pour; the art is making guests feel welcomed and remembered. At Louma, we train not just steps, but storytelling, warmth, and confidence. A drink becomes memorable with a smile, a story about the vineyard just down the hill, or a sense that it was made just for you.

What does the next decade hold for drinking in high-end hotels?

All of it: lower-ABV and no-alc drinks taken seriously, fermentation driving chef-bartender collaborations, and theatre where it belongs. But the real shift is simplicity – pure flavours, fewer ingredients, more respect for origin. At Louma that means elegant, fun, produce-driven drinks that feel both timeless and forward-looking.

When the day is done, what’s in your glass?

Though I’ll always be a bartender at heart, nothing beats a good beer. Lately, Gilt & Flint’s organic lager from Devon – slow-fermented, unpasteurised, unfiltered, and refreshing. If wine, it’s usually Chenin Blanc: versatile, vibrant, and tied to my South African roots.

What’s something surprising readers may not know?

Before hospitality I played football in South Africa’s second division and later coached in the Premier League, even winning a domestic title with Benni McCarthy. My mum says I’m half hippie, half businessman! I love nature and simplicity, but I thrive on structure and drive. Louma, with its farmland and five-star ambition, is the perfect fit.

And finally, if you could share a long lunch with anyone from history, who would it?

Mandela would be extraordinary, but honestly, I’d choose mum. She’s my best friend and favourite dinner date. We’d start with an MCC, then her beloved Cape Merlot from Meerlust or Laborie. Simple tapas, good conversation, and an afternoon I’d never want to end.

Louma- Champernhayes Lane, Bridport DT6 6DF; loumafarmandretreat.co.uk

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