Champagne flutes hold firm at Oriole despite shifting sommelier trends

While recent db reporting has highlighted a shift among sommeliers towards larger, more expressive glassware for Champagne, Covent Garden’s Oriole is holding to a more traditional line.

In recent coverage of the growing trend to abandon the flute, sommeliers told db that the traditional shape may inhibit aromatic expression. One London sommelier observed that the flute “narrowly channels aromatics over the middle of the tongue, missing out on the sweet, salty and sour receptors located from the tip and around the edges”. 

However, Oriole general manager Jacopo Correnti sees both the sensory case for tulip or white wine glasses and the enduring hold of the flute over his guests’ imaginations.

Guest expectations outweigh glassware experiments

Speaking to db, Jacopo Correnti, general manager of Oriole, said the bar continues to serve Champagne in traditional flutes and has not seen significant guest demand for alternative styles. “While as a team we appreciate the benefits of serving Champagne in larger glasses, particularly how they allow the wine’s aromatics and texture to express themselves more fully, this isn’t something our guests typically request or expect,” he said.

The flute, he added, “still holds a strong visual and emotional connection for most of our clientele, reinforcing the sense of occasion and celebration that Champagne represents”. For now, perceptions have not shifted enough to justify a change in glassware or to influence sales.

At Oriole, where atmosphere is central to the experience, the flute is still part of the ceremony. Correnti pointed to its slender silhouette and the way it showcases a steady stream of bubbles as qualities guests associate with Champagne’s sense of occasion.

From a wine service perspective, he is conscious that flutes can restrict aromatic complexity, particularly for more expressive or mature cuvées. Even so, “for the majority of our guests, the flute remains the expected and recognisable choice,” he told db. Although he is an advocate for the functionality of tulip-shaped glasses, he says tradition and presentation continue to guide the day-to-day service.

Practical considerations in a busy service

Operationally, flutes work well for Oriole’s setting. They are space-efficient, easy for the team to handle and match the elegance of the venue’s overall style.

“If we were to move toward larger glasses in the future, particularly for specific expressions or tasting experiences, we’d have to consider storage and handling, as well as maintaining consistency in presentation,” said Correnti. He sees potential for using them selectively for wine-enthusiast guests or special pairings, but for now the flute remains “the most practical and aesthetically aligned option for our Champagne service at Oriole”.

This position stands in contrast to some of the venues featured in db’s earlier reporting, where flutes have been removed entirely in favour of glassware that reveals more of Champagne’s aromatic range. For Correnti, the shift has not yet reached his guests in a meaningful way. While he concedes that the case for larger glasses is persuasive for certain cuvées, he sees no reason to abandon a vessel so strongly bound up with the celebration and elegance his clientele seek. At Oriole, at least for now, the flute’s long, slender line is set to endure.

Related news

Immersion Collection celebrates 40 years of Champagne Thiénot

Champagne from Prince Charles and Lady Di's wedding up for auction

Champagne prices plunge as UK grocers intensify pre-Christmas discount battle