Champagne Palmer doubles up on vintage releases

Champagne Palmer & Co. has simultaneously released its Blanc de Blancs 2018 and a large format of its Blanc de Blancs 2013.

Situated to the south of Reims, the Montagne de Reims is primarily composed of late Cretaceous chalk, meaning that one could well argue that the wines produced from this part of Champagne have been more than 66 million years in the making.

Although the zone is perhaps best-known for its red grapes, the Chardonnay that is grown there is characterful and distinct, as Champagne Palmer & Co. cellar master Xavier Berdin explains: “In this sea of Pinot Noir that is the Montagne de Reims, Villers-Marmery and Trépail are rare gems. These terroirs bring unique structure and concentration to our Chardonnays.”

The two premiers crus of Villers-Marmery and Trépail, often dubbed the “white pearls” of the region, are the aces up the sleeve of Champagne Palmer & Co., and they play a crucial role in the creation of the house’s two newly released Blanc de Blancs expressions, from the 2018 and 2013 vintages.

The east and southeast exposure of the vineyards here provides zesty freshness, structure and finesse to the Chardonnay. In an effort to achieve Palmer’s signature balance and add complexity, a small portion of Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne was also included in the two wines to round them out and add a floral edge to the aroma.

Although the Montagne de Reims has not always been the easiest place to practice viticulture, Palmer & Co.’s longstanding stake in the area seems remarkably prescient in the modern era.

Berdin observes that, in light of a changing climate, the difficulties of previous vintages are now becoming highly advantageous for the creation of Champagnes which will stand the test of time.

“What once made our terroirs more challenging – their cooler exposure – is now one of their greatest strengths,” he notes. “In warmer years, these sites preserve the tension and finesse that define our style.”

New releases

Following on from the challenges of 2017, 2018 might be described as an almost miraculous year for Champagne. A wet winter hydrated the soils, and a good spring followed by a warm summer made sure that the vines developed well. A light-filled late season was crucial for the ripening of the grapes, ensuring the achievement of an ideal balance between sugar and acid, the tightrope that Champagne producers must tread every year to ensure longevity, freshness and, of course, a good base wine for traditional method sparkling to be made from.

Champagne Palmer & Co. Blanc de Blancs 2018 reflects the luminosity and vibrancy of the vintage. 

Alongside the 2018 vintage, Champagne Palmer & Co. is also releasing its Blanc de Blancs 2013 – exclusively in magnum format.

The 2013 vintage was shaped by a delayed growing cycle, with flowering lasting into early July. Despite the hail and wet weather of September, and a harvest in October – far later than is typical for Champagne – the results were something of a welcome surprise, with the fruit displaying clear definition, and the wine made from that fruit possessing both an elegant structure and a vibrant palate.

Although 2013 is a vintage of Champagne that is often overshadowed by the acclaimed 2012 vintage, it has, like many an overlooked year, matured with a quiet confidence that places it among the best vintages of that decade, including 2012, 2015 and 2018. Being released in magnum during July, its potential has indeed been magnified, with its poise and depth placing it among the most age-worthy of its peers.

Whereas 2018 might be summarised as a wine driven by “energy”, 2013 has what Palmer describes as a “quiet grandeur”. If 2018 is a Ferrari Testarossa, then 2013 is perhaps more akin to a Rolls-Royce Phantom.

As distinct as this pair of new releases are, they both have the Palmer DNA running through them, with terroir and time at the heart of each.

To find out more, visit: champagnepalmer.fr

Related news

Chanson Père et Fils on why Côte Chalonnaise is just 'the beginning'

Orma and Oreno: ‘Sometimes we take a little bit of the fashion world’

Technical director of Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges to retire after 35 years