Caroline Frey to step back from the direction of Domaines Paul Jaboulet Ainé

Caroline Frey has announced that she is withdrawing from her role as director and head winemaker of Domaine de La Chapelle, Domaines Paul Jaboulet Ainé, Château La Lagune and Château Corton C. with immediate effect.

In a poignant personal correspondence with her many colleagues and friends in the world of fine wine, she explains that after 20 years of passionate commitment to Château La Lagune, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle Hermitage, and Château Corton C., a period of recent illness “has forced me to reexamine my choices, my balance, and my priorities. Today, with emotion, I have decided to refocus on my Swiss vineyards and to detach myself—without ever truly distancing myself —from the estates that I have cherished for so long”.

She continues, “the strength of our history is also that of our family. My father, Jean-Jacques, founder of our family group, has been there from day one. His vision, his consistency, and his deep commitment are the foundation on which we have built everything. His presence today is more precious than ever. By his side, my sister Delphine, who has been involved for years, will continue to bring the soul of our estates to life”.

The transition will be smooth, even if it is immediate. For, as her note explains, Delphine has for some time been “fully involved in the vision, strategic direction, and image of our estates. She embodies continuity with precision, energy, and sensitivity”.

A new head winemaker is due to be announced by Delphine Frey in the coming weeks – the choice has already been made and it was made collectively. As Caroline elaborates, “It is guided by our commitment to excellence and the deep respect we have for our terroirs. There will be no break. Only careful continuity, in spirit and quality”.

Her note concludes, “for my part, I remain deeply passionate, and I will continue to bring that passion to life in my Swiss vineyards, with all the love, sincerity, and commitment that wine deserves. This is not an end, it is a continuation. A story that is written differently, but always with love, rigour, and respect”.

Over the last two decades Frey has presided over a profound transformation of both Domaines Paul Jaboulet Ainé and Château La Lagune as well as bringing new life and energy into what is now Château Corton C. During that time she has become one of the world’s leading champions of biodynamic viticulture. It is truly fitting that she should have been awarded L’Insigne de Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite for her commitment to organic viticulture and the protection of both terroir and the environment in 2017, the Amorim Biodiversity Award at the Drinks Business’ Green Awards in 2021 and l’Insigne d’Officier du Mérite Agricole in 2023, the same year that she created Domaine La Chapelle bringing together the two legendary Hermitage cuvées La Chapelle and Le Chevalier de Sterimberg.

We look forward to following her wines in Switzerland and wish her all the best for the years ahead. As a tribute to her passion, dedication and sheer wine-making brilliance, let me extract from a forthcoming article, my tasting notes for her first and final vintages as chief wine-maker of Hermitage La Chapelle.

Hermitage La Chapelle 2007 (Hermitage; 100% Syrah; 14% alcohol). Caroline Frey’s first complete vintage. A wine that both continues the upward trajectory established here with the turning of the century but that also signals a subtle change in style and a gaining in precision. This is very fresh, lifted and aerial; it’s aromatically explosive. There’s a great sense of fruit ‘capture’. I love the aromatics which, with air, becomes more and more floral. There’s also a lovely subtle hint of trompette de la mort and white truffle too. The 2007 is rather more austere than the 2005 and finer, with the fruit a shade darker too. Blackberry, bramble, boysenberry, Griotte cherry and cherry brandy notes, a hint of sandalwood, almonds and frangipane. When I return to the glass I find this if anything even more lifted on the nose with a hauntingly glorious cedary note too. Very soft and caressing with cashmere tannins yet also tight and focussed. This has lovely clarity and translucence in the mid-palate. Long, too, with a pleasing plume on the finish. Very attractive. 95.

Hermitage La Chapelle (Domaine La Chapelle) 2022 (Hermitage; 100% Syrah; 14% alcohol; tasted at La Lagune with Caroline and Delphine Frey around a month before bottling; then at the Joanne tasting in July 2024). A little closed at first, but this opens nicely with gentle aeration. Walnut and walnut oil. Dark berry fruits. Sloe and plums, maybe a little damson and black cherry with a little coaxing. Peony, hyacinth, mimosa. Graphite. Earthy, with a little leafy, humous/sous bois note. Sage too. Plump. This has a lovely shape, texture and form in the mouth, pushing at the cheeks just a little. Despite the sustained intensity of the record heat of the vintage, the exceptional terroir has retained an essential freshness. As Caroline Frey explains, everything on granitic soils coped so well despite this being the hottest vintage ever. A lovely trace of liquorice on the finish where one finds also chewy grape skins. Exquisite. 97.

 

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