Exploring the quality and commercial opportunity of Pinot Grigio DOC delle Venezie

EVEN AMONG the least educated wine drinkers, there are certain terms that are widely recognised. Among these are Chianti, Bordeaux, and Rioja, and, in the world of fizz, Champagne and Prosecco too, because they are such well-known regions, with global distribution.

But if one asks someone to name a white wine, they are likely to mention a grape variety, rather than region, with Pinot Grigio being one the first to be uttered. It’s just so prevalent worldwide, because it’s so popular. Indeed, one in 10 bottles of wine bought in the UK is Pinot Grigio.

It was with these words that I began a masterclass at this year’s London Wine Fair, in an attempt to stress the importance of this grape to the UK market. After all, with the event entitled ‘The quality and commercial opportunity of Pinot Grigio DOC delle Venezie’, the discussion and tasting was designed to address a latent consumer demand for this well-known variety, as well as sample some first-rate examples.

It was also necessary to emphasise that such potential concerned a particular source area of Pinot Grigio. After all, this is a grape that can produce wines in a wide range of styles and qualities. However, there’s one place in particular that has made it famous. An area that’s now promoting its position as the go-to for fine and refreshing whites from this grape, as plantings worldwide increase on the back of rising demand.

That region is in Italy – specifically in the northeast of the country, where Pinot Grigio has been grown with great success since the start of the 19th century. It’s an area made famous by Venice, or Venezia as it’s called in Italian – the city of canals, and gondolas. Hence, the area of production is called Pinot Grigio delle Venezie – with the ‘fero’ from the bow of the city’s famous black boats featuring on the region’s logo.

Importantly, it is a DOC – which means it’s a protected area of production, with strict rules on techniques, and wine quality. This position was confirmed just over five years ago, having been granted DOC status in 2016, although this was formalised the following year.

Aside from the long-time dominance of Pinot Grigio in this part of Italy, it’s a brilliant place for producing refreshing white wines.

To be more specific, the DOC covers three regions: Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino and the Veneto.

While it permits the use of a few other grapes, anything carrying the name Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC, must be made with at least 85% Pinot Grigio.

Furthermore, all wines must undergo taste tests by an independent panel before they can carry the name Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. Growers must stick to maximum yields when it comes to production – an important control to prevent the creation of dilute wines.

Aside from the long-time dominance of Pinot Grigio in this part of Italy, it’s a brilliant place for producing refreshing white wines, with cool nights, and clear days, and free-draining limestone soils. And it’s a large area too, covering almost 28,000 hectares – which is similar to the size of Champagne.

In total, Pinot Grigio delle Venezie produces around 250 million bottles annually – representing two-thirds of Italy’s total Pinot Grigio production, and more than 40% of worldwide output.

BENCHMARK BOTTLES

As for the style of wines you can expect from Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, before we tried a set of benchmark bottles – taking in a sparkling and rosato along with the more usual still white types – Ipointed out that in general terms, these are light, crisp white wines, with notes of citrus, pear and peach, and sometimes a mouth-cleansing hint of bitter almond that brings a distinctly Italian character to the wines. In short, it’s a flavour combination that’s made Pinot Grigio a go-to grape for those wanting instant refreshment when diving in to the diverse world of wine.

Finally, as I said after the tasting, for those in the trade looking for a delicate, light style of wine with widespread appeal, please bear in mind that it’s not just Pinot Grigio you should seek out, but Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. Or, to put it another way, think of the gondola when going for Pinot Grigio.