In focus: How French wine co-ops are going green
The creation of wine co-operatives in France in the early 20th century saved many rural communities from terminal decline. From the 1970s, co-operatives were gradually left behind, seen as dinosaurs, producing bulk wine of indeterminate quality. But since the 1990s, many have progressed from high-volume to quality wines and bottled sales.
Though more than 40% of French wine is made by co-operatives, their role is played down, and the word ‘co-operative’ rarely features on bottles. Many consumers are unaware that their favourite wine is not from an independent producer but from a co-operative. In recent years these co-ops have undergone a resurgence and again have a significant role in their
community. Many are big market movers in their appellations.
In today’s fiercely competitive wine market, competition is no longer just about wine itself. Customers – as well as employees, suppliers and, more broadly, society – are placing increasing importance on aspects of wine beyond its intrinsic quality, such as the producer’s sustainability and corporate social responsibility. A host of options are available for a company to prove its commitment. Natural farming may be organic or biodynamic. Sustainability is another objective. On top of these, a company’s corporate social responsibility strategy addresses the wider aspects of the impact of its business. Many standards, certifications and labels are available to recognise companies’ efforts, such as Agriconfiance (created for co-operaties in 1992), HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) and VDD (Vignerons en Développement Durable, created in 2007), Demeter, Biodyvin and ISO 26000.
Compared with traditional winemaking, organic viticulture needs more to keep the vines healthy (difficult in 2018 when there was a lot of mildew in southern France) and more work, often with tractors, on the soil. Organic wine must use organic grapes, with restricted use of certain procedures and additions, and a limited amount of sulphur in vinification. Conversion to organic production can take up to three years. Rules vary from country to country, which can affect the use of the label ‘organic’ when exported. To Laurent Maurel, director of Vignobles de Carsac, “the legislation for organic certification is an extra burden that discourages many co-operatives”.
Reducing pesticide use
Organic viticulture has been present in co-ops over the past 30 years, but it is rare for all members to farm organically. As Baptiste Fabre, marketing director of Loire Propriétés says, when making decisions to convert to organic viticulture: “A small domaine is more flexible in its management. In a co-operative you have to vote to decide big changes in the status.” Older or part-time members may struggle with the extra work required to become organic. To encourage organic practices, co-operatives like Les Caves du Pays de Quarante et du Pays d’Heric offer financial aid to producers converting to organic and more sustainable viticulture. Loire Propriétés pays higher rates for organic grapes. Both employ a consultant to help with conversion to organic viticulture. The cost of producing organic wine is often twice that of non-organic. Education is essential. Eric Isnard, director of Moulin de la Roque, says he tries to lead by example. “If others see how it works in my vineyards, they are more likely to follow.”
France, the second-largest consumer of pesticides in Europe, with vineyards responsible for 14% of their use, is working hard to reduce use of these and other chemicals. The Ecophyto initiative, launched in 2008, and now Ecophyto 2+, are working towards cutting down on usage through education, showing how to use diverse cover crops and reduced, targeted spraying. Getting the co-operatives on board, to support reducing use of chemicals, is vital.
Where co-operatives really lead the way, however, is through sustainable development. While not directly related to the production of wine, sustainable development results in wines with minimal to no chemicals having been used. Their size, in terms of the number of members and extent of territory, allows co-ops a wider reach in the community and, as Fabre says, to “encompass much more than just being organic. It’s about the environment and the economy, and saving energy and the employees’ welfare and our impact on the local community.” Seventy per cent of Loire Propriétés’ producers follow sustainable viticulture through VDD and Agriconfiance labels, monitored by their own quality engineer, who manages the paperwork and monitors action. Some producers also work with HVE.
Les Vignerons Créateurs (a recent merger of five co-ops, with 150 members and 1,300 hectares of vines) and Carsac, with 87 members cultivating 800ha, are both working towards sustainable viticulture. Les Vignerons Créateurs, in the Gard is working particularly hard to protect the countryside against the creep of urbanisation. Les Vignobles de Buzet, was among the first co-ops in France to engage in a quality-management approach to agricultural production with respect for the environment. Since 2005, they have followed sustainable development including economic, societal and environmental elements, with their own marketing motto ‘S’engager autrement’ (‘We engage differently’).
Partner Content
Les Vignerons Ardéchois has, since 2002, committed to integrated pest management, with an eco-responsible approach from 2013 in partnership with Frayssinet, the French leader in organic fertilisation, and already has a significant part of its wines certified organic and labelled ‘vin eco-responsable’. Since 2016, it has developed its own sustainable project called Ardèche Par Nature, encouraging wildlife, which has brought on board a further 22 producers, representing 100ha of vines, who will, in turn, progress to organic viticulture. They aim for 300ha of organic cultivation by 2023. Producers who sign up are paid 30%-40% more than those following conventional agriculture. In turn, these ecologically responsible wines are sold for around 30% more. Improvements to the environment have already seen the start of the return of rare bats, eagles and otters.
Biodiversity
The scale of vineyards run by co-ops under organic and sustainable methods allows for a significant impact on the environment. Bees, valuable indicators of biodiversity and the environmental footprint, are encouraged. Les Vignerons de Tornac, in the Cevennes, with half its 400ha cultivated organically, are members of Grappe3 and Abeille, and have planted bee-friendly crops. Since 2015, Buzet has four wines labelled ‘bee friendly’, with hives in the vineyards.
Water use and quality is an important part of sustainable practices. Water polluted by insecticides and herbicides is a far-reaching concern, and even with organic production, the use of copper, a heavy metal, which can filter through to the water table, has caused worry. For the Cave Héracles, conversion to being organic was originally instigated by the water company Perrier, whose source lies nearby. Concerned by the run-off of chemicals, Perrier approached the co-operative, and in 1994, 24ha were converted to organic viticulture. Quarante works with the Convention BI-EAU to protect the use of water. To address the problem of pesticide residues filtering down to the water table, the project l’Eau à l’horizon by water agency SDAGE Rhône Méditerranée has a 10-year plan from 2015 to clean up water supplies. This includes working with viticulture to reduce the use of harmful chemicals and heavy metals and working to recycle water. Loire Propriétés participates in environmental projects, such as taking care of the quality of the waters of the Aubance and Layon rivers.
The Cave de Rasteau, a central economic force in the southern Rhône, follows a philosophy aimed at quality of life and protecting the environment. Bandol’s Moulin de la Roque, a member of VDD, follows the same principles, and works to conserve the natural beauty of protected Coastal Conservancy land near Bandol, by selling a range of wines grown there, under the Domaine de la Nartette label. Being part of the community can be regarded as part of the sustainable ethos.
The small co-op in Correns is unique in that its organic status was part of the conversion of the village’s agriculture (mainly viticulture) to organics in 1998. Loire Propriétés recognises the importance in being involved in the sustainable community, because, according to Fabre, “it encourages us to develop partnerships with the communities around us, to sponsor or develop events and so on. Our company also gives lots of jobs to the people around the winery.”
French co-ops have so many stories to tell consumers and the trade about their many initiatives in sustainability and corporate social responsibility. The biggest challenge is how to communicate this effectively. With no single organisation spearheading the sustainability movement, and with more than just the contents of the bottle being involved, how can the wider message be delivered? For the consumer, sustainable viticulture appeals, with its sense of terroir that also serves to protect the environment and the image of working in harmony with the land.
As Philippe Hebrard, director of the large Bordeaux co-operative Caves de Rauzan, says: “More and more buyers of French supermarket chains, hotels and restaurants are taking their suppliers’ corporate social responsibility policies into account when making purchasing decisions.”
This story of wine as part of our social structure, contributing to society and the environment, is fully in keeping with the original aims of the co-operative movement. Far from being dinosaurs, they are showing a dynamic way forward.
