Q&A: Kasturi Banerjee on spearheading India’s rum boom

The banker-turned-bartender who founded Stilldistilling Spirits, the producer of Maka Zai Rum, reveals what’s so special about Indian-made drinks, and talks us through her favourite feta-infused cocktail.

Before launching Stilldistilling Spirits you were a banker for 16 years. Why did you change career?

“In 2019, I decided to pursue a bartending course to immerse myself in the art of mixology. While gin was gaining popularity at the time, I was curious about the artisanal rum market, given the undercurrents taking place globally, and India’s abundance of sugarcane, which acts as the foundation for any great rum. Recognising a significant market opportunity within the premium rum category, I began my journey into rum with Stilldistilling Spirits.”

What is the most exciting part of your job?

“No two days have ever been the same. What continues to inspire me is my team – I’m surrounded by like-minded and strongly-motivated people. It’s also incredibly fulfilling to be a part of an industry that is very welcoming, open to newcomers, and always willing to extend support.“

How far has your business come since you launched in 2020?

“We set out on a mission to reinvent rum in India as a versatile, tropical, and modern spirit that can be enjoyed by everyone. In just three years, we have launched three distinct creations – a cocktail-focused white rum, India’s first sipping gold rum, and a limited-release barrel-aged rare rum called Mesma. We launched just 600 bottles of Mesma, exclusively in Goa, which sold out in less than two weeks. Today, we have expanded our presence to five regions in India – Goa, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Haryana, and Puducherry, as well as travel retail in Mumbai and Ahmedabad.”

Why did you choose to produce rum?

“Given that India is a leading producer of sugarcane, which gives us the molasses spirit used to produce rum, and that our terroir is ideal for producing the best-quality rum, it was surprising that this spirit was being overlooked. In my view, a rum revolution was on the cards. Fast forward to today, the rum market has picked up in a big way both globally and in India. We’re seeing an influx of homegrown brands, each introducing different styles and new flavours of rum to the market, such as white, dark, gold, spiced, or limited-edition.”

What makes Indian-made rum unique?

“Most Indian rums predominantly use molasses as their base, diverging from the internationally prevalent cane-based spirits. Given India’s terroir, we follow a primarily molasses-based style of production, which lends itself to the unique characteristics and flavour profiles that are typical to an Indian liquid.”

How are you shifting the perception of rum in India to make people see it as premium?

“Historically, rum in India has been viewed as a non-premium dark spirit, which is made for novice drinkers, and always requires a mixer. Although Indian consumers have traditionally preferred Mojitos or the classic combination of rum and cola, we are continuing to push for greater awareness and education. Our team is also constantly experimenting with new flavours and techniques to craft delicious rum cocktails. In fact, one of our most popular signature cocktails is the Cacti Daiquiri, which celebrates indigenous ingredients and is the perfect monsoon cocktail, with floral, fresh, and herby flavours.”

What is your go-to cocktail?

“One of my favourites is our in-house mix: the Wat-a-melon, which is a clarified cocktail made with Maka Zai White Rum that is infused with feta cheese and combined with fresh watermelon and basil.”

How do the focuses of your rums differ from each other?

“The fundamental idea behind developing two distinct styles of rum is to cater to diverse palates and styles of drinking. Our white rum is preferred as a cocktail liquor for consumers who enjoy experimenting with their cocktail choices, and our gold rum is a sipping rum for mature palates.”

Your first limited-edition barrel aged rum sold out in just two weeks. Will you be making more?

“We are constantly pushing boundaries and exploring new possibilities in rum production, and Mesma was born as an outcome of this – the gold rum was left to rest in multiple casks without a period in mind. It is a limited-release barrel-aged rare rum. Looking ahead, we aim to continue experimenting with limited-edition rums and innovative blends to drive category awareness and help change the perception of rum in India.”