Mark Haisma brings Australian perspective on Burgundy to Hong Kong

“We’re in the golden era in Burgundy,” Australian-born winemaker Mark Haisma said at a sold out event with Hong Kong merchant Ginsberg+Chan.

“Let’s face it, I’m not doing anything important. I’m not a doctor, a lawyer or a teacher. I’m make a drink. A very special drink but that’s all I do. My goal now in my life is to make something beautiful for people,” Haisma said last week at the event he hosted on behalf of Ginsberg+Chan last night at the James Suckling Wine Bar.

Haisma, who is now farming 4 hectares of vines in Burgundy, gave his perspective on today’s winemaking practices during the intimate night, where guests were able to taste the 2020 vintages which have been held back by Ginsberg+Chan for promotion since their release from the wine producer.

“The fact that I sit between two heroes of mine with my parcel of Grand Cru Fonteny, only spitting distance from the great grand cru of Ruchottes owned by Rousseau, is a big deal,” Haisma said of his own achievements.

The winemaker began his career in Australia, where he was born, and spent 10 years at Yarra Yering before settling in Burgundy in 2007.

Speaking on Burgundy, Haisma described these wines as those which “I used to drink in Australia from time to time and marvel at the power and elegance, wondering how the fuck they managed to do that”.

Now, he says, he has the answer: “It was always the fact that they had the best vineyards.”

Haisma argues that the road to quality in Burgundy is simple — “those that have access to the best will make the best” — meaning it all comes down to the best soil.

“To have managed to do these things has become one of the biggest professional achievements. And to now see the results from these parcels fills me with such joy and enthusiasm for everything to come,” he said.

Haisma added: “Vineyard work is one of the most physical jobs you can do, especially organics. My old body needs the motivation to get up day after day and do this. Walking on to Fonteny is like a drug I have never experienced.”

The following food and wine pairings were served during the event:

Barrel Chip House Smoked
Salmon Chassagne Montrachet 2020
Meursault Sous la Velle 2020

Beef Cheeks Bourguignon With Taro Puree
Morey Saint Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru 2020
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2017

Fusilli Pasta With Duck Confit In Mint & Sun Dried Tomato
Gevrey Chambertin 2017
Gevrey Chambertin 2019
Gevrey Chambertin 2020

Roast Whole Yellow Chicken
Gevrey Chambertin Fonteny 1er Cru 2020
Gevrey Chambertin En Pallud 2020

Ginsberg+Chan’s next Meet the Winemaker event will be host to Kathyrn and Chris Hermann of Oregon’s 00 Wines, tasting the flagships VGW,VGR and EGW, as well as the single vineyard expressions on 29 January.