Close Menu
News

All the medallists from the Rioja Masters 2023

Rioja’s persistent popularity is built on a number of factors, including style, pricing, adaptability and quality, as Patrick Schmitt MW reports.

While there are plenty of up-and-coming parts of the Spanish wine scene, the fact that Rioja has such enduring popularity says much about its stylistic positioning, pricing and willingness to adapt. Rioja sells well because it tastes good, it’s relatively inexpensive and it has evolved with the times. Indeed, it has succeeded where other once mainstream European wine regions have struggled – for example, large red wine-producing areas such as Bordeaux or Chianti, which have suffered long-term declines.

So what’s behind this success? Or rather, what did we learn from our annual health check on the region – the tough blind tasting competition that is The Rioja Masters? Well, with Rioja securing some of the highest numbers of Gold and Master medals of any competition we’ve run this year, we can confidently say that it is on song. Or, in the words of fellow judge and Global Masters Chair Jonathan Pedley MW: “Standards are being maintained in Rioja and it can continue to bask in the glory of being Spain’s preeminent premium wine region.”

But such a high qualitative base doesn’t mean there’s stylistic uniformity. Indeed, a strong part of Rioja’s durability stems from its ability to offer such assortment. The consumer can dip into the affordable, the refreshing, the aged, the classic and the modern, as well as Rioja’s rulebreaking, rebellious side too – with its catch-all, unregulated Vinos de Autor category home to some of the area’s most delicious reds and whites. As Pedley says: “The sheer diversity of producers and styles shows that the ongoing success is not the result of a handful of cult producers, but rather is widely spread across Rioja – this gives the wine industry its strength and resilience.”

So, to begin, there’s a good mix within the whites, be it the clean, zesty and sometimes gently toasty types, or the oldschool examples, with their combination of oxidative notes, coconut and high-acid fruit. The addition of native Tempranillo Blanco to this offer makes it all the more inimitable and exciting.

Within the rosés too, there’s much to choose from, with both delicate and fruitier types on the market today, along with pale examples to compete with Provence – at least in terms of appearance. Today’s red joven category encompasses many different characters of Rioja – and a broader spread of prices too. It’s great for diversity but, warns Pedley, “does illustrate how the traditional legal hierarchy within Rioja is becoming less relevant and in future may end up confusing consumers, rather than helping them”.

Crianzas can be a source of interest and high quality today, as well as good value, although we did taste some high-priced offerings within this normally relatively affordable classification.

Moving up to reserva, some great wines were tasted, with Rioja’s rich but refreshing red fruit successfully married to the toasty flavours and dry tannins from barriques. But, as with crianza, we noted that the top-end expressions, while a joy to drink, are now expensive. Pedley says: “The Rioja industry has ‘premiumised’ in recent decades, meaning that, whilst quality can be very high, there are few bargains to be had.”

By contrast, Pedley says gran reserva can offer “excellent value for money”, adding: “In particular, very few of the world’s top wine regions release beautifully mature red wines like gran reserva Rioja onto the market at similar prices to their en primeur/futures offerings.”

Finally, vinos de autor yielded some of the highest scores. This category can be home to reds from the region’s oldest vines and greatest sites, but used to craft wines with concentration, and not the aged flavours found in traditional Riojas that conform to the rules of established classifications. The best of these weren’t too extracted, but still far removed from the leather and dried fruit characters of a traditional gran reserva. Nevertheless, the top rule-breaking Riojas were pricy.

This raft of new, more ambitiously priced and produced reds can come as something of a shock. But if you compare them not to Rioja, but to the world of great red wines, they aren’t especially expensive. At the moment, they just lack the cachet of a branded SuperTuscan or Napa Cabernet. But, with more time, and recognition from competitions such as this, Rioja will start to gain in status. In other words, top-end drinkers will realise this part of Spain is home to more than vinous supermarket stalwarts – it is also a source of serious and collectible wines.

White Joven

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
J García Carrión Pata Negra Rioja Blanco 2022 Silver
Bodegas Azpilicueta Azpilicueta Blanco 2022 Silver
J García Carrión Antaño Blanco 2022 Bronze
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Viura Blanco 2022 Bronze
Pagos del Rey Marqués de Altillo Blanco 2022 Bronze
£10-£15
Bodegas Montecillo Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2022 Gold
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Barrel Fermented 2022 Silver
Bodegas Luis Alegre Blanco Sobre Lías 2022 Bronze
£15-£20
Juan Ramón Lozano Montes de Leza Edición Limitada Lías 2021 Silver
Bodegas Ugalde Felipe Ugalde Blanco 2022 Silver
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Antea Limited Edition 2021 Silver
£20-£30
Luis Cañas Viñas Viejas Luis Cañas Viñas Viejas 2021 Silver
Bodega Bideona Bideona Las Parcelas Blanco 2021 Bronze
£30-£50
Bodegas Amaren Amaren Barrel Fermented 2020 Silver
£50-£70
Bodegas Cosme Palacio Cosme Palacio 1894 White 2018 Gold

White Reserva

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£10-£15
Bodegas Campillo Campillo Blanco Reserva 2020 Silver
£15-£20
Bodegas Eguren Ugarte Eguren Ugarte Reserva Blanco 2019 Silver
£20-£30
Bodegas Tobía Oscar Tobía Reserva Blanco 2017 Gold
£30-£50
Bodegas Montecillo Viña Monty Viura 2018 Silver

White Gran Reserva

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£70-£100
Bodegas Remirez de Ganuza Blanco Gran Reserva 2016 Gold

White Vinos de Autor

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£20-£30
Bodegas Muriel Viña Muriel Blanco Vino de Elciego 2020 Gold

Rosé Joven

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
J García Carrión Antaño Rosado 2022 Silver
£10-£15
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Excellens Rosé 2022 Gold

Red Joven

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Tempranillo 2022 Master
J García Carrión Montequinto Tinti 2021 Silver
J García Carrión Reservado Tinto 2021 Silver
Bodegas Eguía Viña Eguía Garnacha & Graciano 2021 Silver
Pagos del Rey Marqués de Altillo Tinto 2022 Silver
J García Carrión Pata Negra Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada 2021 Silver
J García Carrión Antaño Vendimia Seleccionada 2021 Silver
J García Carrión Antaño Tinto 2021 Bronze
£10-£15
Bodegas Azpilicueta Azpilicueta Instinto 2020 Gold
£20-£30
Bodega Bideona Las Parcelas Tinto 2021 Gold
£50-£70
Bodegas Cosme Palacio Cosme Palacio 1894 Red 2018 Gold

Red Crianza

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
J García Carrión Pata Negra Rioja Crianza 2018 Silver
J García Carrión Pata Negra Rioja Edición Especial 2018 Silver
J García Carrión Antaño Crianza 2018 Silver
J García Carrión Montequinto Crianza 2018 Silver
Bodegas Azpilicueta Azpilicueta Crianza 2019 Silver
J García Carrión Reservado Crianza 2018 Bronze

 

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£10-£15
Bodegas Ugalde Viña Cerrada Crianza 2020 Gold
Bodegas Navajas Los Vinateros 2018 Gold
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Excellens Cuvée Especial 2019 Gold
Pagos del Rey Marqués de Altillo Crianza 2019 Gold
J García Carrión Marqués de Carrión Crianza 2018 Silver
J García Carrión Viña Arnaiz Crianza 2018 Silver
Bodegas Muriel Crianza Rioja Alavesa 2020 Silver
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Red Wine Crianza 2020 Silver
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Crianza 2019 Silver
£15-£20
Juan Ramón Lozano Montes de Leza Edición Limitada 2019 Gold
Bodega Lar de Paula Edición Limitada Crianza 2018 Silver
La Carbonera (Familia Torres) Malpastor 2020 Silver
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Cuvée 2021 Silver
Rioja Vega Edición Limitada 2020 Bronze
£20-£30
Manuel Quintano Labastida Cepas Viejas 2021 Silver
£30-£50
Altos de Rioja Altos R Pigeage Tempranillo 2020 Gold
Bodega Bideona Bideona Laguardia (L4GD4) 2020 Gold
Rioja Vega 9 Barricas 2017 Silver
Bodega Bideona Bideona Samaniego (S4MG0) 2020 Silver
Bodega Bideona Bideona Villabuena (V1BN4) 2020 Silver

Red Reserva

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
Under £10
J García Carrión Reservado Reserva 2016 Silver
Pagos del Rey Castillo de Albai Reserva 2018 Bronze
£10-£15
J García Carrión Viña Arnaiz Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Faustino Faustino V Reserva 2018 Silver
J García Carrión Marqués de Carrión Reserva 2017 Bronze
£20-£30
Bodegas Eguren Ugarte Martin Cendoya Reserva 2017 Gold
Bodegas Marqués de Vitoria Reserva 2018 Silver
£15-£20
Bodegas Muriel Muriel Reserva Vino de Elciego 2018 Master
Bodegas Eguren Ugarte Reserva 2016 Gold
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva 2020 Gold
Bodegas Ugalde Viña Cerrada Reserva 2018 Gold
Bodegas Azpilicueta Azpilicueta Reserva 2018 Silver
Bodegas Bilbaínas Viña Pomal Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Reserva 2020 Silver
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Reserva 2018 Silver
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Reserva 2018 Silver
Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2017 Silver

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£30-£50
Altos de Rioja Altos R Reserva 2018 Gold
Bodegas Faustino Faustino Icon Especial Selección 2018 Gold
Bodegas Luis Cañas Reserva Selección de la Familia 2018 Gold
Bodegas Amaren Angeles de Amaren 2019 Gold
Bodega Lar de Paula Edición Limitada Reserva 2016 Silver
Bodegas Campillo Finca Cuesta Clara Raro 2017 Silver
Bodegas Ugalde Felipe Ugalde Reserva 2018 Silver
Rioja Vega 140 Aniversario Reserva 2016 Bronze
£50-£70
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Gaudium 2018 Master
Bodegas Amaren Tempranillo Reserva 2015 Gold
£100+
Bodegas Remirez de Ganuza María Remirez de Ganuza 2007 Master

Red Gran Reserva

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£15-£20
Bodegas Faustino Faustino I Gran Reserva 2012 Gold
Bodegas Campo Viejo Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 2016 Silver
£20-£30
Bodegas Bilbaínas Viña Pomal Gran Reserva 2015 Gold
Bodegas Muriel Muriel Gran Reserva 2015 Silver
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Gran Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Ugalde Viña Cerrada Gran Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Ugalde Ugalde Gran Reserva 2017 Silver
Rioja Vega Rioja Vega Gran Reserva 2017 Silver
Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres Gran Reserva 2016 Silver
Pagos del Rey Arnegui Gran Reserva 2014 Silver
Bodegas Montecillo Montecillo Gran Reserva 2015 Silver
£30-£50
Bodegas Luis Cañas Luis Cañas Gran Reserva 2016 Gold
Bodegas Campillo Campillo Gran Reserva 2014 Gold
Bodegas Tobía Oscar Tobía Gran Reserva Tinto 2015 Gold
Bodega Heredad de Baroja Heredad de Baroja Gran Baroja 2012 Silver
Bodegas Faustino Gran Faustino I 2004 Silver
£100+
Bodegas Remirez de Ganuza Remirez de Ganuza Gran Reserva 2009 Master

Red Vinos de Autor

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£15-£20
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Cepas Viejas 2022 Gold
Manuel Quintano Labastida Manuel Quintano El Pionero 2021 Silver
Bodegas Eguren Ugarte Ochenta 2019 Silver
£20-£30
Jesús Madrazo Wines Jesús Madrazo Num. IV 2019 Master
Bodegas R&G R&G Rioja 2018 Gold
Bodegas Luis Alegre Parcela N° 5 2018 Gold
Bodegas Bilbaínas La Vicalanda Viñas Viejas 2019 Silver
Bodegas Muriel Viña Muriel Solariego Vino de Elciego 2019 Silver
£30-£50
Manuel Quintano Labastida Manuel Quintano Selección Particular 2019 Gold
Bodegas Campillo Campillo 57 Selección Especial 2016 Gold
Bodegas Bilbaínas Viña Vicuana 2018 Silver
£50-£70
J García Carrión Bodega La Ermita 2019 Gold
Bodegas R&G Esencia 2015 Gold
Bodega Lar de Paula Merus 4 2015 Silver
£70-£100
Bodegas Ysios Grano a Grano 2020 Master
£100+
Bodegas R&G Iconic 2018 Master

Red Organic

Winery Name of wine Vintage Medal
£10-£15
Navarrsotillo Terra Organica Rioja 2022 Bronze

About the competition

With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Rioja Masters provides a chance for your wines to star. The 2023 competition was judged on 21 September at Bar Camino in King’s Cross, London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Rioja Master.

This report features the medal winners only. Please visit the Global Masters website for more information or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420, or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com

Sponsored by Cork Supply

Related news

Christie’s Asia projects sales total of HK$3.28bn in H2 2024

Masterclass highlights under-the-radar Vinhos de Lisboa

The Big Interview: Grant Ashton

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

It looks like you're in Asia, would you like to be redirected to the Drinks Business Asia edition?

Yes, take me to the Asia edition No