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Organic Masters 2018: the results in full

We reveal all the medallists from the UK’s only blind tasting for certified organic wines, with some surprising results, including top scores for fizz from Surrey and Champagne aged in the sea, as well as a Sauvignon Blanc blend from Mallorca, plus a stunner from the Minervois.

The Organic Masters 2018 was judged by a panel comprising MWs and one MS at Opera Tavern in London. The judges were (left to right): Sam Caporn MW; Patricia Stefanowicz MW; Susan McCraith MW; Alistair Cooper MW; Beverly Tabbron MW; Patrick Schmitt MW, Clement Robert MS

It’s safe to say that every wine region in the world has at least one producer who employs certified organic viticultural practices – a statement that this year’s Organic Masters certainly lends weight to. With medal-winning samples from a vast array of places, from Surrey in south-east England to the Spanish island of Mallorca, we found greatness in areas little-known for top-end wines, let alone organic vineyard management. Such results also proved that even challenging climates, such as those in the UK and Champagne, can produce class-leading wines using this restrictive approach.

Not only that, but organics spans all price bands, with plenty of entries this year sub-£10, and a handful over £50 too, highlighting that this form of viticulture can be employed to produce wines at the commercial end of the pricing scale, as well as in the territory of fine wine.

Importantly, the tasting proved that being organic, or more accurately, using organically-grown grapes, is a decision that need not be detrimental to quality. Although the choice to eschew synthetic herbicides, pesticides and fungicides does generally leave one more vulnerable to yield losses, it should not negatively affect the style of the resulting wine. In fact, particularly where organic practices are combined with life-enhancing soil management, such an approach should heighten the wine quality, and, as some producers will insist, bring a more accurate reflection of site specifics, or terroir.

Although it is certainly possible to find drawbacks in the organic approach, any ambitious, quality-minded producer should be doing everything possible to augment soil health – after all, it is this substrate that is a great domaine’s most valuable asset.

So with that in mind, who were the star producers that managed to be both certified organic and a source of greatness? In the sparkling category, it was notable how many organic Proseccos we saw in this year’s tasting, and their consistent level of quality, with no fewer than eight Silver medals awarded across a range of price points. We also had a lovely good-value Cava from J. Garcia Carrión, along with a pleasant organic Lambrusco from Cantine Riunite, and, like last year, a brilliant fizz from Oxney, in England’s East Sussex.

But for the very top of the pile, just two Golds were awarded in the sparkling wine sector. One, as one might expect, went to a Champagne – and the biodynamic Leclerc Briant brand, resurrected in 2012 by American investors, and curated by respected sparkling winemaker Hervé Jestin. Although their range of Champagnes are excellent, it was the new cuvée Abyss that gain a top score, a blend that has been aged at the bottom of the sea. The other Gold was more of a shock, awarded to a pink fizz from England. This refreshing, pretty, strawberry-scented sparkling hailed from the organic and biodynamic Albury Vineyard of the Surrey Hills, and the judges felt it was a real find.

As for the still wines, it was exciting to see some good quality and great value organic wines from countries such as Romania and Bulgaria, along with some well-known brands, such as Marqués de Cáceres and Quinta de Maipo, as well as longstanding Australian organic-only wine producer, Angove.

It wasn’t until the wines moved beyond the £10 mark that our first Golds were awarded, with, in whites, a wonderful and original sample from Mallorca, comprising Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Prensal Blanc, made by Oliver Moragues. Within the £10-15 category in reds, we saw Golds awarded to wines from areas well-suited to organic viticulture, such as the Languedoc, Sicily, Jumilla and South Africa’s Tulbagh region – the latter from Waverley Hills.

Moving beyond £15, but staying below £20, it was thrilling to unearth a wonderful organic dry Riesling from the Nahe, and, among the reds, a magnificent balanced, gently peppery Syrah from the Minervois, made without the addition of sulphites by biodynamic specialist of southern France, Château Maris. Despite its relative affordability, the judges awarded this latter sample the ultimate accolade, a Master.

At the higher end, over £20, the judges were wowed by a rosé from Domaine la Goujonne in Provence, and a Shiraz from Gemtree Wines in the McLaren Vale.

But our only other Master of the day’s tasting went to a further Syrah and another wine from Château Maris – this time the producer’s top drop, called Dynamic. Such a sample proved not only the quality of this brand, but also the potential of biodynamically-farmed vines in the cru of Minervois La Livinière – the Languedoc’s most celebrated place for Syrah.

In short, the day’s tasting drew attention to the wide range of places where organic viticulture is practised to glorious effect, whatever the wine style. Being organic may not be a guarantee of quality, but it certainly shouldn’t be seen as a farming decision to the detriment of vinous excellence. And this year’s Organic Masters proved that decisively.

Over the following pages are the results in full, followed by details about the competition and comments from the judges. 

Sparkling White

Company Wine Name Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Cantine Riunite Righi Pignoletto DOC- Vino Frizzante Secco Biologico Emilia-Romagna Italy NV Bronze
Schenk Italia Prosecco DOC Brut Biologico – Bacio della Luna Veneto Italy NV Bronze
£10-£15
MA. S.P.A. Vallate Prosecco DOC Brut Bio Veneto Italy NV Silver
Cantine Riunite Maschio Prosecco DOC Biologico Extra Dry Veneto Italy NV Silver
J. García Carrión Pata Negra Cava Brut Organic Catalonia Spain NV Silver
Halewood International Colle Baio DOCG Brut Prosecco Treviso Italy NV Silver
£15-£20
Azienda Agricola Giol Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso Veneto Italy 2017 Silver
Masottina Prosecco Brut Organic DOC Veneto Italy NV Bronze
£15-£20
Villa Premoli Prosecco Brut Superiore Asolo Prosecco DOCG Treviso Italy 2017 Silver
Stramaret Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Treviso Italy 2017 Silver
La Vigna Del Nespolo Brut Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene Treviso Italy 2017 Silver
Stramaret Brut Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene Treviso Italy 2017 Silver
Masottina “Costabella” Brut Biologico Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Veneto Italy NV Bronze
£30-£50
Oxney Organic Estate Classic English Sparkling Wine East Sussex England 2015 Silver
£50+
Champagne Leclerc Briant Abyss Champagne France 2012 Gold
Champagne Leclerc Briant Millésime 2010 Extra Brut Champagne France NV Silver
Champagne Leclerc Briant Brut Réserve Champagne France 2010 Bronze

Sparkling Rosé

Company Wine Name Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Cantine Riunite Righi Lambrusco di Modena DOC Biologico Frizzante Semisecco Emilia-Romagna Italy NV Silver
£30-£50
Albury Vineyard Albury Estate Sparkling Rosé Surrey England 2015 Gold

Still White

Company Wine Name Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Domeniul Bogdan Premium Organic Wine Cuvée Christian Dobrogea Romania 2017 Silver
Angove Family Winemakers Angove Organic Chardonnay South Australia Australia 2017 Silver
Org de Rac Org de Rac Die Waghuis Swartland South Africa 2017 Silver
Domeniul Bogdan Premium Organic Wine Resling de Rhin Dobrogea Romania 2017 Silver
Bodega Matarromera Granza Verdejo Castilla y León Spain 2017 Bronze
Agriverde Eikos Pecorino IGP Terre di Chieti Bio Vegan Abruzzo Italy 2017 Bronze
Vinicola de Tomelloso Finca Cerrada Viura Ciudad Real Spain 2017 Bronze
Bodegas Nodus En la Parra Valencia Spain 2017 Bronze
£10-£15
Oliver Moragues Oliver Moragues Blanc Mallorca Spain 2017 Gold
M.P. Wines Le Nez Français Classique Blanc Languedoc-Roussillon France 2015 Silver
Viñedos Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Chile 2017 Silver
La Corte Montefreddo – Pignoletto Superiore DOCG Col Emilia-Romagna Italy 2017 Silver
Weingut im Zwölberich Riesling Kabinett, Alfred Nahe Germany 2017 Silver
Angove Family Winemakers Wild Olive Organic Chardonnay McLaren Vale Australia 2017 Silver
Santa Tresa Purato Catarratto Pinot Grigio IGP Terre Siciliane Bio Sicily Italy 2017 Silver
£10-£15
Cantine Colomba Bianca
Venchiarezza
Vitese Grillo
Sauvignon
Sicily Italy
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Italy 2017
2017
Bronze
Bronze
Codorniu Raimat Ventada La Rioja Spain 2017 Bronze
£15-£20
Weingut im Zwölberich Riesling Spätlese trocken, Langenlonsheimer Steichen, Alte Reben Nahe Germany 2016 Gold
Château Roubine Premium Provence France 2017 Silver
La Quercia Scarlatta Uve Blanche Marche Italy 2016 Bronze
Azienda Agricola Giol Pinot Grigio IGT Marca Trevigiana Veneto Italy 2017 Bronze
£20-£30
Vins de Taller Baseia’17 Catalonia Spain 2017 Bronze

Still Rosé

Company Wine Name Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Vinicola de Tomelloso Finca Cerrada Tempranillo Rosé Ciudad Real Spain 2017 Bronze
Angove Family Winemakers Angove Organic Rosé South Australia Australia 2017 Bronze
£10-£15
Avignonesi Canthlolo Toscana IGT Rosato Biologico Tuscany Italy 2017 Bronze
Avignonesi Ventisei Toscana IGT Rosato Biologico Tuscany Italy 2017 Bronze
£15-£20
Château Roubine Premium Provence France 2017 Silver
£20-£30
Domaine la Goujonne Noémie Provence France 2016 Gold

Still Red

Company Wine Name Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Marqués de Cáceres Marqués de Cáceres Organic Joven Rioja Spain 2017 Silver
Bodega Matarromera Granza Tempranillo Castilla y León Spain 2016 Silver
Bodegas Luzon SL Luzon Verde Organic Murcia Spain 2017 Silver
Quinta de Maipo Palo Alto Organic Wine Maule Valley Chile 2016 Silver
Schenk Italia Masso Antico – Negroamaro del Salento IGT Biologico Apulia – Salento Italy 2017 Silver
Viña Ijalba Ijalba Graciano La Rioja Spain 2016 Silver
Angove Family Winemakers Angove Oganic Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Australia 2017 Bronze
Bulgaarse Wijn Center Tiara Mavrud Thracian Valley Bulgaria 2015 Bronze
Los Medanos Malbec Mendoza Spain 2016 Bronze
Bodegas Nodus El Chaval Valencia Spain 2017 Bronze
Bulgaarse Wijn Center Syrah Single Vineyard Kotkini Mogili Thracian Valley Bulgaria 2016 Bronze
Bodega Matarromera Cyan Crianza Castilla y León Spain 2014 Bronze
Vinicola de Tomelloso Finca Cerrada Tempranillo Ciudad Real Spain 2017 Bronze
£10-£15
M.P. Wines Le Nez Français Classique Rouge Languedoc-Roussillon France 2015 Gold
Cantine Colomba Bianca Vitese Nero D’Avola Sicily Italy 2017 Gold
Viñedos y Bodegas Xenysel Xenysel Organic Jumilla Spain 2017 Gold
Waverley Hills Grenache Tulbagh South Africa 2016 Gold
Angove Family Winemakers Warboys Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Silver
Bulgaars Wijncenter Vincia Thracian Valley Bulgaria 2013 Silver
M.P. Wines Le Nez Imperium Languedoc-Roussillon France 2014 Silver
Finca El Molar Finca El Molar Roble Manchuela Spain 2016 Silver
Codorniu Raimat Boira La Rioja Spain 2017 Silver
Avignonesi Ventisei Toscana IGT Rosso Biologico Tuscany Italy 2017 Silver
Cantine Colomba Bianca Vitese Syrah Sicily Italy 2017 Silver
£10-£15
Viña Ijalba Ijalba Cuvée La Rioja Spain 2016 Silver
Viñedos Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Chile 2015 Silver
Viñedos Emiliana Salvaje Casablanca Valley Chile 2017 Bronze
Santa Tresa Santa Tresa Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Classico DOCG Bio Sicily Vittoria 2016 Bronze
Pagos de Familie Vega Tolosa Bobal Icon Castilla-La Mancha Spain 2017 Bronze
Oliver Moragues El Galgo – The Greyhound Mallorca Spain 2017 Bronze
Bodegas Tempore SO2 Free IGP Bajo Aragón Spain 2017 Bronze
Halewood International Esporao Colheita Tinto Alentejo Portugal 2015 Bronze
Angove Family Winemakers Wild Olive Organic Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Bronze
M.P. Wines Le Nez Français Cabernet Franc Languedoc-Roussillon France 2015 Bronze
Santa Tresa Santa Tresa Nivuro Nero D’avola – Perricone IGP Terre Siciliane Bio Sicily Vittoria 2016 Bronze
Venchiarezza Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Friuli-Venezia Giulia Italy 2017 Bronze
£15-£20
Château Maris Savoir Vieillir Occitanie France 2017 Master
Waverley Hills SMV Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier Tulbagh South Africa 2013 Gold
North South Wines Quandong Farm Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Silver
Gemtree Wines 2016 Uncut Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Silver
Avignonesi Ventisei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Tuscany Italy 2015 Silver
Viñedos Emiliana Coyam Colchagua Valley Chile 2014 Silver
Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano DOC Biologico Tuscany Italy 2016 Silver
La Quercia Scarlatta Uve Rosse Marche Italy 2016 Bronze
Altolandon Rayuelo Castilla-La Mancha Spain 2014 Bronze
Altolandon MIL Historias Garnacha Castilla-La Mancha Spain 2017 Bronze
Gemtree Wines Cinnabar GSM McLaren Vale Australia 2017 Bronze
£20-£30
Bodegas Pinuaga Pinuaga 200 Cepas Castilla-La Mancha Spain 2014 Silver
Gemtree Wines Ernest Allan Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Silver
Cantina Strappelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG Bio Abruzzo-Colline Teramane Italy 2016 Silver
£30-£50
Gemtree Wines Obsidian Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Gold
Oliver Moragues Oliver Moragues Selecció Mallorca Spain 2016 Silver
£50+
Château Maris Dynamic Languedoc-Roussillon France 2015 Master

Fortified wine

Company Wine Name Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Bodegas Robles
Bodegas Robles
Piedra Luenga Bio Fino
Piedra Luenga Bio Cream
Córdoba
Córdoba
Spain
Spain
NV
2002
Gold
Silver
Bodegas Robles Caprichoso Bio Córdoba Spain 2017 Bronze

About the competition

The Organic Masters is a competition created and run by the drinks business, and is an extension of its successful Masters series for grape varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as regions such as Rioja and Champagne.

The competition is exclusively for wines that are certified organic or made with certified organically-grown grapes, and also includes certified biodynamic wines.

The entries were judged by a selection of highly experienced tasters using Schott Zwiesel Cru Classic glasses supplied by Wine Sorted. The top samples were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those organic wines that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Organic Master.

The wines were tasted over the course of a single day on 22 June at Opera Tavern in London. This report features only the winners of medals.

The judges were Sam Caporn MW; Patricia Stefanowicz MW; Susan McCraith MW; Alistair Cooper MW; Beverly Tabbron MW; Patrick Schmitt MW, and Clement Robert MS

Judge’s views: Beverly Tabbron MW

I was surprised – and relieved – about the lack of funky off aromas and flavours as I had thought that line up might contain some controversial ‘natural’ wines.  The vast majority of the wines were fresh and well made and the fact that they are organic is a bonus in terms of reduced sulphur levels and environmental issues.  I generally find organic and biodynamic wines to have more ‘soul’ expressive of their terroir when tasting at generic tables at fairs and events and I was impressed by the overall quality.

Judge’s views: Sam Caporn MW

So this is a VERY hard category to comment on as we literally had no idea what the wines were when tasting and they could be from anywhere in the world!

I think what it did confirm was that organic wines are expensive though there were a couple of surprises under the £10 category that did really well but I think there will increasingly be a demand for organic wines as consumers start taking more of an interest in organic everything. Personally I thought that Spain and Australia did a great job and produced fantastic wines and presumably have the climate for it with plenty of sun and in some regions not too much rain.

Judge’s views: Patricia Stefanowicz MW

What I liked: The variety of wine styles made useing organic, bio-dynamic and ‘natural’ techniques is inevitably exciting! It is a delight to find that there are producers of Sparkling whites, rosés and even reds and Still whites, rosés and reds, where quality and value can shine.

Finding good value wines in the £10-15 bracket with plenty in the silver and bronze categories was excellent. were equally polished and balanced. There was an absolutely delicious, beautifully balanced and succulent red Lambrusco at under £10. Where’s the pizza or mortadella, please?

Rosés seemed to perform well in spite of the fact that making rosé wines is actually quite challenging. Perhaps extra care in the cellar is what makes the difference here?

The best value seems to be in the £15-20 bracket. The wines show plenty of intensity of flavour, brilliant definition, polished and balanced, with many wines achieveing the benchmark for an award. Integration of structure and flavour was key.

What I didn’t like: Variability in quality. Organically grown grapes are not a guarantee of quality at any price point. Careful winemaking and appropriate use of SO2, filtration and other cellar techniques are crucial. We found very good wines at under £10 and at £50, but many were under-performing. There were a few where a more judicious use of cellar practices might have produced a higher quality wine.

The red wines were a complete ‘mixed bag’ in terms of quality and value. There were a few stars, but it wasn’t obvious on the day which wines or price points were likely to be better. At £20-30 the reds sometimes appeared to be trying too hard, with over-extraction and high alcohol evident on some wines, not quite balancing the flavour intensity.

Judge’s views: Susan McCraith MW

It’s not nice realising you’re getting older but one compensatory benefit is that you have greater perspective. Years ago, maybe 20 or so, ‘organic’ used to be a slightly dirty word to describe wines that often tasted the same way: unclean, earthy, green. Whilst we buyers knew it was a preferable way of cultivation, we struggled to find wines that were good enough quality to put on our list.

Since then the situation has improved significantly as viticultural and vinification skills and technology have improved. Rather than finding one out of ten wines to be acceptable, this tasting proved that organic wines are pretty much on a par with conventional wines.

For me personally though I find the picture is not black and white. I don’t buy certified organic wines purely out of principle. Having researched this sector and visited many organic and biodynamic vineyards, I realised that each grower needs to adapt his or her practices to their individual vineyard and climate and in some cases a small amount of systemic product may be less harmful overall than spraying considerable amounts of copper. What matters overall is having a healthy soil with lots of lovely microbes and producing the best quality and most authentic wine possible from that plot. The passion that growers have for the soil is often reflected in the quality of their wines.

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