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Organic Masters 2017: results and analysis

Our annual Organic Masters competition shines a light on the best wines – of all types – that are produced with certified-organic grapes. This year’s event shows that there is quality and depth in this fast-expanding sector, writes Patrick Schmitt MW

While our Masters programme has always sought to recognise the best wines within long-established areas of the trade, whether that’s through tastings organised by grape variety or region, it has also been designed to draw attention to new market trends.

Hence the addition of a Prosecco Masters to the competition calendar four years ago, at a time when this Italian sparkling was in the ascendancy but suffering from the incorrect perception that it all tasted similar. Over the years of blind analysis of Prosecco, we have highlighted the stylistic diversity and quality available, as well as the leading producers, and top terroirs of this popular category.

The story is similar with rosé, another part of the industry that has expanded significantly this decade, and, again, contains surprising stylistic diversity, along with a broad range of quality levels.

Consequently, our Rosé Masters, launched in 2015, has witnessed the rise of barrel-fermented pink wines, the march towards ever-lighter colours – inspired by the market success of Provençal rosés – and the expanding variety generally: be it the increasing extremes in appearance, sweetness levels, and palate weight.

About the competition

The Organic Masters is a competition created and run by The drinks business and is an extension of its successful Masters series for grape varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as regions such as Rioja and Chianti, and wine styles such as rosé and sparkling. The competition is exclusively for wines made from certified organically-grown grapes. Divided only by price bracket and, for ease of judging, style too, the blindtasting format allowed wines to be assessed without prejudice about their country of origin. The best wines were awarded medals that ranged from Bronze through to Gold, as well as Master, the ultimate accolade, given only to exceptional wines in the tasting. The wines were judged by a cherrypicked group of Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers and organic wine specialists on 5 May at The Pig & Butcher in London. This report features only the winners of medals.

SOUGHT-AFTER
This year, we decided to continue in our search to blind taste test the fashionable, which explains the addition of another category to our competition series with the Organic Masters. While organic wines aren’t new, they are becoming increasingly sought-after, and, like rosé and Prosecco, suffer from a number of perceptions that require testing.

Confirming the increasing demand for organic wines, both major international trade shows for wines and spirits this year have installed dedicated sections for the category.

ProWein, held in March, hosted its first ever Organic World, a showcase of 30 international organic wine producers in a designated area, while Vinexpo Bordeaux will this month contain its inaugural WOW!, standing for World of Organic Wines, which promises the participation of 200 growers.

In 2016, market-research agency Wine Intelligence noted that organic wines might be one of the most important trends for the wine industry, saying the number of organic exhibitors at ProWein had grown from 17 producers in 2005 to roughly 600 last year, a rise of more than 3,000% in 10 years. But what is organic wine? For the sake of our Organic Masters, it is a product made from organically-grown grapes.

Furthermore, they must be certified, and we accepted a range of certifying bodies, as these tend to be country-specific.

Importantly, they all exclude the use of artificial chemicals in the vineyard. Although the judges were fully aware of the criteria for the competition, they were asked to assess the wines as they would any other – according to quality first. The wines were served blind, grouped into price bands, and loosely arranged according to style within their colour categories.

It was, of course, only a snapshot of the organic category, but was revealing, nonetheless. One positive conclusion drawn for the tasting was the realisation that England can produce first-rate sparkling wine with organic grapes.

A climate famous for its challenging growing conditions, above all because of damp, was the source of two Golds in the competition, and only five were awarded, although there were three Masters – the highest accolade reserved for exceptional wines only. The pair of sparkling Golds came from Oxney in East Sussex and Albury in Surrey, for those are looking to tap into two trends: the rise of English fizz and organic produce. Other top-scoring wines came from less surprising sources.

We had a lovely Chardonnay from Angove in Australia, for example, a producer based in the hot dry climate of McLaren Vale, and an experienced hand at organic grape growing. Another Chardonnay that impressed was also from the New World, but from a producer that has had plenty of practice with organics, but doesn’t exclusively produce organic wine.

This was New Zealand’s Babich, which earned a Master for its Headwaters Organic Chardonnay from Marlborough, and a Gold for a Pinot Noir under the same label, proving that this region can produce first-rate results with organically grown grapes, and, great wines with varieties other than Sauvignon Blanc, which is, of course, the bread and butter for this New Zealand wine region.

A further top performer was Domaine Bousquet. A family-owned operation in Argentina’s Mendoza, this organic specialist hails from Carcassonne in southern France, but has been growing grapes in the Gualtallary valley in Tupungato for 20 years. Wowing the judges was its single-vineyard expression Ameri, a Malbec-dominant blend that also contains Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot, from a plot at 1,250m altitude.

LONG-TIME FOCUS
Our final stars of the day were from Australia and France.

The former nation gained a Master for the Ernest Allen Shiraz from Gemtree Wines in the McLaren Vale, a part of Australia that appears home to a high proportion of organic and biodynamic producers. The latter country also produced a Master, this time from the Languedoc, home to Château Maris – a property famous in this region for its long-time focus on organic and biodynamic practices.

The success in the competition of its Dynamic label also confirmed the belief that the relatively new ‘cru’ of La Livinière in the Minervois really does produce a superior level of Syrah – and, as one judge said, a “real terroir-driven wine”.

The judges: Left to right (top row): Sarah Knowles MW, David Round MW, Clive Barlow MW, Jonathan Pedley MW, Dee Blackstock MW (bottom row): Sam Olive, Patricia Stefanowich MW, Patrick Schmitt MW, Clement Robert MS

Sparkling – White

Company Wine Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Santa Tresa Il Grillo di Santa Tresa Brut Bio Sicilia Italy NV Bronze
£10-£15
Raphael Dal Bo Raphael Dal Bo Organic Prosecco DOC Treviso Veneto Italy 2016 Silver
Miguel Torres Estetado Organics Sparkling Wine Valle Central Chile 2015 Bronze
Cantine Riunite & CIV Maschio Prosecco Organic DOC Extra Dry Treviso Italy NV Bronze
Piera Martellozzo Millesimato Brut Vino Biologico Giade Veneto Italy NV Bronze
£15-£20
Piera Martellozzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry Vino Biologico Giade Veneto Italy NV Silver
Giol Prosecco Brut DOC Treviso Veneto Italy 2015 Silver
Masottina Valiate Prosecco Organic Brut Veneto Italy NV Silver
Giol Prosecco Extra Dry DOC Treviso Veneto Italy 2015 Bronze
Masottina Prosecco Brut Biologico DOC Treviso Veneto Italy NV Bronze
£20-£30
Oxney Organic Estate Classic East Sussex England 2014 Gold
Masottina Costabella Brut Bio Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Veneto Italy NV Silver
Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne France NV Silver
Lanson International Lanson Green Label Organic Champagne France NV Silver
£50+
Champagne Fleury Sonate 2011 Extra Brut Champagne France 2011 Silver

Sparkling – Rosé

Company Wine Region Country Vintage Medal
£30-£50
Albury Vineyards Albury Estate Rosé Surrey England 2014 Gold

Sparkling – Red

Company Wine Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Cantine Riunite & CIV CIV&CIV Lambrusco di Modena DOC Organic Amabile Modena Italy NV Silver

Still – White

Company Wine Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Angove Family Winemakers Organic Chardonnay South Australia Australia 2016 Gold
Les Domaines Auriol Elegantly Organic Chardonnay Languedoc France 2016 Silver
La Riojana Ecologica Organic Fairtrade Torrontes Chardonnay Famatina Valley Argentina 2016 Silver
Finca Las Moras Organico Chardonnay San Juan Argentina 2016 Silver
Miguel Torres Las Mulas Sauvignon Blanc Central Valley Chile 2016 Bronze
Codorniu Raventós Raimat Ventada Catalonia Spain 2016 Bronze
La Riojana La Posada Bio Torrontes Organic Fairtrade Famatina Valley Argentina 2016 Bronze
Cantine Colomba Bianca Vitese Zibibbo DOC Sicilia Biologica Sicily Italy 2016 Bronze
Santa Tresa Purato Catarratto Pinot Grigio Terre Siciliane IGP Sicily Italy 2016 Bronze
Cantine Colomba Bianca Vitese Grillo DOC Sicilia Biologico Sicily Italy 2016 Bronze
Península Vinicultores Mesta Organic Verdejo Uclés Spain 2016 Bronze
Santa Tresa Rina Ianca Grillo Viognier Terre Siciliane IGP Bio Sicily Italy 2016 Bronze
£10-£15
Weingut im Zwölberich Cuvée Anna, Riesling Feinherb Qualitätswein Nahe Germany 2016 Silver
The Wine Team Global King’s Bay Marlborough New Zealand 2016 Silver
Weingut im Zwölberich Auxerrois Kabinett Trocken Nahe Germany 2015 Silver
Walnut Block Wines Nutcracker Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand 2015 Silver
Vintae Aroa Laia Navarra Spain 2016 Bronze
Staffelter Hof Magnus Riesling 2015 Trocken Mosel Germany 2015 Bronze
Cantina Tollo Biologico Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP Abruzzo Italy 2016 Bronze
Proviva Chakana Nuna Estate White Blend Lujan de Cuyo Argentina 2015 Bronze
Angove Family Winemakers Wild Olive Organic McLaren Vale Chardonnay South Australia Australia 2016 Bronze
Feudo Antico Pecorino Biologico Tullum DOP Abruzzo Italy 2016 Bronze
Bodegas Krontiras Doña Silvina Torrontes Rioja Argentina 2016 Bronze
£15-£20
Bonterra Organic Vineyards Chardonnay Mendocino USA 2015 Silver
Weingut im Zwölberich Genesis, Langenlonsheimer Löhrer Berg Riesling Kabinett Trocken Nahe Germany 2016 Silver
Fasoli Gino Pieve Vecchia Veneto Italy 2013 Bronze
£20-£30
Babich Wines Babich Family Estates Headwaters Organic Chardonnay Marlborough New Zealand 2016 Master
Domaine de Torraccia Oriu White Corsica France 2016 Silver
Babich Wines Babich Family Estates Headwaters Organic Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand 2016 Silver
Alois Lageder Porer Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Italy 2015 Bronze
Sedlescombe Organic Vineyard Old Vine Sedlescombe England 2015 Bronze
£30-£50
Alois Lageder Löwengang Chardonnay Alto Adige Italy 2014 Silver
Château Maris Brama Languedoc France 2014 Bronze

Still – Rosé

Company Wine Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Bodegas Santa Ana Eco Cabernet Rosé Mendoza Argentina 2016 Silver
Santa Tresa Purato Rosé Terre Siciliane IGP Sicilia Italy 2016 Bronze
Península Vinicultores Mesta Organic Tempranillo Rosé Ucles Spain 2016 Bronze
£10-£15
Grands Domaines Du Littoral Château Mas Audibert – AOC Côtes de Provence Provence France 2016 Silver
Domaine de Torraccia Domaine de Torraccia Rosé Corsica France 2016 Silver
Vintae Aroa Larrosa Navarra Spain 2016 Bronze
Bodegas Krontiras Doña Silvina Rosado Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2016 Bronze
£20-£30
Domaine de Torraccia Oriu rosé Corsica France 2016 Bronze

Still – Red

Company Wine Region Country Vintage Medal
Under £10
Angove Family Winemakers Organic Merlot South Australia Australia 2015 Silver
Cantine Colomba Bianca Vitese Nero d’Avola DOC Sicilia Biologica Sicily Italy 2016 Silver
Angove Family Winemakers Organic Shiraz Cabernet South Australia Australia 2016 Silver
Bernard Magrez Grands Domaine Les Pierre Fendues Vignobles du Sud Languedoc France 2015 Silver
The Wine Team Global Famiglia Grillo Vino Rosso d’Italia Italy NV Silver
La Riojana Raza Selection Malbec Shiraz Organic FT Famatina Valley Argentina 2015 Silver
Palo Alto Orgánico Maule Valley Chile 2015 Silver
Iconic Wines Vera Organic Barbera Provincia di Pavia Italy 2016 Bronze
Miguel Torres Chile Las Mulas Carmenere Valle Central Chile 2015 Bronze
Angove Family Winemakers Organic Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Australia 2016 Bronze
Bordeaux Vineam Bio Full Bordeaux France 2015 Bronze
The Wine Team Global Villarini Nero d’Avola Sicilia Italy 2016 Bronze
The Wine Team Global Tom Legend Signature Organic California USA 2015 Bronze
Codorniu Raventós Raimat Boira Catalonia Spain 2015 Bronze
La Riojana La Posada Bio Malbec Organic Fairtrade Famatina Valley Argentina 2016 Bronze
Santa Tresa Purato Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane IGP Sicilia Italy 2016 Bronze
Terre Cortesi Moncaro ‘Dragunera’ Terre Siciliane IGT Syrah Sicilia Italy 2015 Bronze
La Riojana Ecologica Organic Fairtrade Shiraz Malbec Reserve Famatina Valley Argentina 2016 Bronze
Península Vinicultores Mesta Organic Tempranillo Do Uclés Spain 2016 Bronze
Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG Bio Sicilia Italy 2014 Bronze
Luis Felipe Edwards Rosa Blanca Organic Carmenere Syrah Colchagua Chile 2015 Bronze
Bodega el Esteco Cuma Organic Red Blend Salta Argentina 2016 Bronze
£10-£15
Feudo Antico Rosso Biologico Tullum DOP Abruzzo Italy 2015 Silver
Bodegas Tempore GENERACIÓN 73 Bajo Aragón Spain 2016 Bronze
Valentin Bianchi Famiglia Bianchi Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2014 Bronze
Proviva Chakana Nuna Estate Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina 2015 Bronze
La Cantina Di Andria Vignuolo Nero di Troia DOC Castel del Monte Biologico Puglia Italy 2015 Bronze
Gemtree Wines Bloodstone Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2016 Bronze
Vintae El Pacto La Rioja Spain 2014 Bronze
The Wine Team Global Bell Flower Zinfandel Premium Reserve California USA 2015 Bronze
Bodegas Vegalfaro Caprasia Bobal-Merlot Utiel-Requena Spain 2016 Bronze
Bodegas Tempore SO2 FREE Spain 2016 Bronze
Bodegas Krontiras Doña Silvina Fresh Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2016 Bronze
Agriverde Natum Abruzzo Italy 2016 Bronze
Angove Family Winemakers Wild Olive Organic McLaren Vale Shiraz South Australia Australia 2015 Bronze
Vintae Aroa Mutiko Navarra Spain 2016 Bronze
Esporão Esporão Colheita Alentejo Portugal 2015 Bronze
£15-£20
Domaine Bousquet Ameri Mendoza Argentina 2011 Gold
Bodegas Krontiras Doña Silvina Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2015 Silver
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Blend Mendoza Argentina 2013 Silver
Milénico Valdepila de Milénico Castilla y Leon Spain 2015 Silver
Sedlescombe Organic Vineyard Regent Rondo Sedlescombe England 2015 Bronze
Blends Wine Estates Argento Reserve Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2014 Bronze
Domaine Bousquet Malbec Grande Reserve Mendoza Argentina 2013 Bronze
Bonterra Organic Vineyards Merlot Mendocino USA 2014 Bronze
£20-£30
Gemtree Wines Ernest Allan Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2015 Master
Cantina Strappelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Colline Teramane ‘Colleta’ Abruzzo Italy 2013 Silver
Bodega Matarromera Carlos Moro Finca Valmediano Castilla y Leon Spain 2014 Silver
Bodegas Krontiras Doña Silvina Petit Verdot Mendoza Argentina 2014 Silver
Bodegas Krontiras Doña Silvina Tempranillo Mendoza Argentina 2015 Bronze
£30-£50
Château Maris Château Maris Dynamic Languedoc France 2014 Master
Babich Wines Babich Family Estates Headwaters Organic Pinot Noir Marlborough New Zealand 2015 Gold
Gemtree Wines Obsidian Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia 2015 Silver

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