Top 10 Spanish regions to watch18th December, 2013 by Lucy Shaw
While more commonly associated with sun, sea and Pablo Picasso, winemaking in Malaga can be traced back to 600BC. The DO has experienced a winemaking renaissance of late, with wine writers and consumers waking up to the charms of its sweet wines made from Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez.
Blazing a trail in this department are the aforementioned Telmo Rodriguez and Bodegas Jorge Ordoñez. The former, who calls his creations “mountain wines” after the 17th century English expression for sweet wines from Malaga, is making a name for himself with Molino Real, made from Moscatel grapes left to dry in the sun for two weeks. Over at Bodegas Jorge Ordoñez, Jorge’s sister, Victoria, is in charge of making sweet elixirs from Moscatel.
Founded as a joint venture between Ordoñez and Hungarian sweet wine guru, the late Aloïs Kracher, the estate in Axarqui up in the Malaga mountains produces four dessert wines of varying sweetness in miniscule amounts – under 4,000 bottles of each.
Once tasted, never forgotten, their unctuous palates burst with tropical fruit, from mango and peach to papaya and apricot, balanced by crisp acidity and a mineral core. Meanwhile, in the Sierras de Ronda, red grape Romé is showing great promise for Andalusia.