Unfiltered: Samuel Chantoiseau

The head sommelier of Ballymaloe House, County Cork talks to Douglas Blyde about his love for the ever-changing Irish weather, the music emanating from the vintage record player in reception, and the wine which was laid down for him from the year he was conceived…

What is your vintage?

I am half French, a quarter Italian, and a quarter Russian Ashkenazi, and was born in Bordeaux in 1971, but spent more time in Saint-Étienne – and my soul is strongly connected with La Drôme, Provence.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

One of the most special wines I ever tried came from 1970, the year I was conceived: Château Montbousquet Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. A good friend of my mother, the winemaker, François Querre, promised her he would keep a bottle from his private cellar for her child to enjoy when he grew up. I finally opened this bottle in 2010 and it proved a special experience to taste such an old wine. The other was the glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape brought by a friend to our chalet in Provence after a mountain trek. As soon as the bottle was opened, the perfume of blueberries suffused the room. That moment, I realised a bottle of wine could influence your mood in a positive way.

Where did you work before?

I worked as a photography teacher in a secondary school in Saint-Étienne and as a photographer specialising in black and white landscape images. I moved to Ireland in 2006, and a year later, I started at Ballymaloe House as an assistant sommelier.

Describe your wine list?

Our 270 bin list focuses on the Old World, especially Bordeaux and Burgundy, but also reaches to the Czech Republic and Georgia. We also have a nice selection from the New World. My primary focus is on presenting organic, biodynamic, and natural wines, this being my greatest passion in my work as a sommelier. We have many great natural winemakers, including Elisabetta Foradori, La Stoppa, Arianna Occhipinti, Thierry Germain, Olivier Cousin, Alexandre Bain, and Pheasant’s Tears.

Where are these stored?

We are very lucky to have a lot of space at Ballymaloe House, with one room on the restaurant floor fitted with EuroCaves for service, and then there is the beautiful, authentic wine cellar itself, with another space called the “Port Store” being where we mature special wines.

What is a standout wine pairing with a dish by head chef, Dervilla O’Flynn?

A particular favourite of Dervilla is  summer lobster, garden tomato salad and basil aioli with the fresh, fruity, and aromatic Albariño de Fefiñanes “1583” 2020. The texture of the lobster works superbly with the barrel fermented Albariño, while the acidity of this dish pairs deliciously with the spicy and herbaceous notes of the wine.

Which is the best table in the house?

We have seven dining rooms, each with their own specific, beautiful atmosphere, meaning it’s rather difficult to pick out just one. But if I had to choose, I would say table one by the window in The Yeats Room, which was the first dining room opened by Myrtle and Ivan Allen.

How does the setting of the famous venue enhance the enjoyment of wine?

Ballymaloe is an historical, family-run country house situated in the beautiful East Cork countryside. It has long held a reputation for providing top quality Irish cuisine and excellent wine. When dining at Ballymaloe, amongst the lovely fresh flowers picked from the gardens, you can rest assured that you will have fantastic, seasonal, and locally sourced food to enhance your chosen wine.

What music features at Ballymaloe?

While we don’t play music in the dining rooms, we recently introduced a record player at the reception so we can play subtle jazz and classical music.

What is the focus of the bar? 

As well as an extensive list of Irish whiskeys and craft beers, we collaborate with local companies who help us produce our own gin, cider, and apple juice. Our focus is on classic cocktails using ingredients from the garden.

Do you think a vineyard will ever be planted in the grounds?

As temperatures increase, who knows what the future holds? Maybe in another decade, it will be possible to grow vines successfully in our grounds.

What is a misconception guests might have of sommeliers?

They may not realise the amount of work which goes on behind the scenes. When serving wine a sommelier takes time to chat about it with guests without rushing. People may think it is quite a relaxed job, as a result, but it is actually very busy. Also, they sometimes think that we know everything about wine, though from my point of view, the world of wine is infinite and as sommeliers we are always learning.

What was the last book you read?

“The Stranger” by Albert Camus.

And film?

“Belfast” which I watched at the Irish Film Institute, Dublin. I love this independent cinema.

Where do you dine on your days off?

At Sage Restaurant, Midleton. I also love to cook, particularly fresh mackerel if I am lucky enough to have caught a few while kayaking in Ballycotton Bay.

What is your motto?

“Never say never and always try to keep an open mind.”

What style of wine don’t you get along with?

Red wine which is woody which is like it’s wearing too much makeup; too artificial! I believe strongly that wine should be just fermented grape juice, that’s all!

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I love the Irish weather because it is always changing as opposed to the Sahara where I used to live and work for more than five years as a guide and photographer. Believe it or not, it can be very boring to have a sunny, blue sky for months on end. I much prefer the unpredictable, ever-changing lively Irish weather! Guests are surprised when they hear this and think I must be joking…

Ballymaloe House – Ballymaloe More, Shanagarry, County Cork, Ireland, ‍P25 Y070; +353 (0)21 4652531; res@ballymaloe.ie; ballymaloe.ie