Unfiltered: Roman Jaën

The wine director for Experimental Group on his ever evolving list at the Covent Garden wine lover’s haven, La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, the in-house mystery blind wine challenge, and matching wine and guest…

What is your vintage?

I was born in Burgundy in 1989, a year from which I have been lucky enough to try Arnoux-Lachaux Latricières-Chambertin, which was shared by a friend in 2018, Grange des Pères white in 2002, which was becoming unique with age, and Chinon 1989 from Lenoir, a natural wine with impressive balance and freshness, even after 30 years.

Where did you work before the Experimental Group?

I worked at Jacques Raymond, Melbourne, helped open The Peninsula in Paris, and at Pierre Gagnaire in Paris and London.

Describe your role?

As well as looking after La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in London, I buy for the Experimental Group’s new openings around Europe including our hotel in Ibiza last year, with more to come in Switzerland, London and Italy.

Describe your list?

I focus on listing artisans producing wines with soul and our selection has been carefully picked to feature wines that we love, including many producers with whom we have a personal connection. We have often visited the vineyards and shared bottles together as a team. And it is this experience which we want to share with our guests. We’re always on the lookout for new wines, and the list evolves constantly. For example, since April 2021 we have added more than 500 new wines, which represents a 60% change. These include a few names of young and dynamic producers very new to the scene, such as Switzerland) from Beaune, Giulia Negri from La Morra, César Márquez from Bierzo and Patrick Adank from Graubunden, Switzerland.

Do you still run the mystery wine tasting challenge?

Yes, and we always will, it being a “signature glass” at CVS! I remember when a guest managed to discover two mystery wines in a row and happily left with a couple of prize bottles as a result.

What is your most seductive pour available via Coravin?

A delicious Cinsault from la Terrasse d’Elise 2013 in magnum.

How many references do you have?

Up to 800.

 What has been a standout wine pairing with a dish designed by your chef, Julien Guesdon?

Agnolotti stuffed with ricotta and cime di rapa with foie gras sauce alongside Champagne Tradition from Egly-Ouriet. This particularly vinous wine, which is mineral and has exceptional energy, cut through the richness of the sauce and the texture of the pasta beautifully; they complemented each other.

What does Julien enjoy drinking?

He loves Château des Tours.

What music is played at the venue?

French and US hip-hop, soul and funk.

Which is the best table in the house?

The one by the open window overlooking the yard.

What is a misconception guests have of sommeliers?

That sommeliers are only there to sell expensive wines. In fact, we’re here to match the right wine with the right guest.

What have you enjoyed reading recently?

The fictional newspaper, “Vino Futur”, written by Julie Reux (IG @vinofutur) which imagined what vineyards will be like in 2072, featuring winemaker, sommelier and critic interviews. It’s a fascinating read!

And name a recent film you saw?

“The Truffle Hunters”.

Which country makes the best whisky?

Scotland, although Japan makes some mind-blowing whiskies, too.

Where do you go on your days off?

Quality Wines, Brawn, Bright, Andrew Edmunds and round the corner at our neighbours and friends, The 10 Cases.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I’m becoming a daddy in the spring!

La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels – 8-10 Neal’s Yard, London, WC2H 9DP ; 020 7734 7737; reservation@cvssevendials.com; cvssevendials.com