Unfiltered: Remi Cousin

The head sommelier of Le Gavroche on encountering a taste of ambrosia during a busy service at Le Meurice, playing Curling with Michel Roux Jnr, and having Heston Blumenthal witness his wedding…

What is your vintage?

I was born in the summer of 1980 in Maisons Laffitte next to Versailles, but grew up in a tiny village north west of Paris of just 450 people – and considerably more cows. From this vintage, I have enjoyed Port and Armagnac, and I have my eye on the 1980 Grange on the list at Le Gavroche.

If not a sommelier, what would you have been?

A chef. From the age of six, I made sauces with my mother. Later, I remember admiring the charismatic genius, Bernard Loiseau on TV. As soon as I had the opportunity, I went to catering school, doing stages in Paris at Georges V and Le Meurice.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

The glass of vanilla, saffron and quince scented wine I was handed during a busy service by Le Meurice’s head sommelier, Antoine Zocchetto. When I put it to my lips I tasted nectar. It turned out to be Château d’Yquem 1988. I would love to get back in touch with Antoine to tell him that it is because of him that I am now the head sommelier of Le Gavroche.

How long have you worked at Le Gavroche?

Since 4^th October 2016.

What was your interview like with Michel Roux Jnr?

We got on straight away and the hour long interview passed in the blink of an eye.

What is he like to work with?

He is super supportive, always present, and always thinking about the team. We had a Curling party with him three weeks ago!

Where did you work before?

I spent eight years at The Fat Duck and still live nearby in Maidenhead. Heston was actually the witness at my wedding. Before that, I worked at Hotel du Vin for four years with Xavier Rousset MS whom I often see at Blandford Comptoir.

How did Covid affect your buying?

Serendipitously, before I even heard about Covid, I had this feeling that I should increase our stock including grower Champagne and en-primeur Burgundy from producers such as Philippe Pacalet, which allowed us to live through the pandemic without buying any wine.

How many bins do you offer?

2,500.

Describe the list?

As well as the flights of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and top vintage, first growth Bordeaux, we have been adding smaller growers. I have expanded the amount of bottles available under £100 and £200.

How have you modernised it?

All drinks can be viewed on an iPad, which for Le Gavroche, which can be compared to a religion, is something of a revolution! Marked with a heart, our “favourite” wines have magnetised an influx of new guests. Representing wines we have very few of, these may include: Château Latour 1999 priced at £495, Château Margaux 1989 at £985, Château Haut-Brion 2002 white at £595 and Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2000 at £350, Penfolds Grange 1987 at £800 and Pingus 1998 at £300. Chef Michel said, “put on about 50 wines” at first, and now we have around 300 such wines.

Do you still do the amazing lunch deal which included half a bottle of wine per person?

After reopening in June 2021, chef Michel could see us getting more tired so said, for now, “no more lunch guys.” Instead, we open the bar at 4:30pm, with dinner service beginning at 5pm, Tuesday to Saturday. Owing to the ongoing staffing shortage across the industry, we have also to limit the number of guests per sitting.

How many sommeliers do you oversee?

I have a young English gentleman working at the bar Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday called Jacob, plus three young gentlemen full time: Freddie, who started part-time as he was still going to engineering college when he was 17, Manuel from Colombia who is a former accountant, and Christos, who is half Greek, half Ukrainian and a former bar manager.

What has been a standout wine pairing?

Historically, we paired our famous Soufflé Suissesse with Gonzalez Byass’ Apostoles Palo Cortado Viejo, which I now match with 2007 G.H. Martel Cuvée Victoire Brut Champagne. Matured in oak, its nutty character provided contrast and a little freshness. Another match, which took three days to find, sees our meaty John Dory with lemon butter sauce and razor clams meet the inaugural 2014 Chapel Down Kit’s Coty still Chardonnay, which brings structure and freshness. I took all the vintages of this wine.

Which table is the best in the house?

Depending on the guest, it could be the private chef’s library, or a table in the middle for people who prefer to be acknowledged, or a quieter table on the side. Needless to say, we remember their preferences.

Which grape, region or style do you find it hard to get along with?

I am not “racist” when it comes to wine – my only barometer being, if it’s not good, it’s not good…

What ingredients do you abhor?

Chocolate and truffles. My aversion to the latter always makes chef Michel laugh because I have to move out of the way when he serves it in the restaurant. I can always find truffles as a result!

Which VIPs have you looked after over your career?

Adele, Johnny Hallyday, Chris Martin, Sir Paul McCartney and manager of The Rolling Stones, Andrew Loog Oldham, as well as Sébastien Squillaci who used to play for Arsenal, David McAlpine who really knows about Burgundy and Bordeaux from the difference between vintages and family stories, and last but certainly not least, the late Gérard Basset. Without him, I would not have come to the UK!

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I trained in a circus, my speciality being rola rola. And I can perform magic tricks!

What have been your most memorable lunches?

The students sommelier lunch in 2001 at the Hotel de Crillon in Paris performed by the Head sommelier, David Biraud. Also, lunch at the Domaine de Souch with Yvonne Hegoburu. I remember drinking Domaine de Souch with Garbure stew, into which we dipped bread, followed by a little cake with coffee. And a lunch at the Leeuwin estate restaurant, Australia. Also, the picnics with my parents in a field in France, featuring baguettes, butter and ham, seated on blankets with my brothers and sister. Hopefully, the best lunch is still to come.

What is your motto?

“There’s always room for improvement.”

What do you look for when recruiting new sommeliers?

I look at how they approach me, what they’ve got in their heart, and whether they can fit in here at Le Gavroche. Will they respect authority, what they are being taught, and put their trust in me?

Do you prefer Champagne or Riesling?

It depends on the moment and the company. Perhaps start your meal with Champagne then carry on with Riesling?

Le Gavroche – 43 Upper Brook Street, London, W1K 7QR; 020 7408 0881; bookings@le-gavroche.com; le-gavroche.co.uk