Unfiltered: Aodhan Coakley

The head sommelier of The Falls Restaurant at Sheen Falls Lodge talks to Douglas Blyde about his love of “monster” Riesling, the best table from which to see the waterfall at night, and shunning meditation…

What is your vintage?

I am Irish and my family is from Bantry just a short hop away from Kenmare. We moved to Kenmare in 2000. My birth vintage is 1997 and the most memorable wine I drank from this year would have been Château Pichon-Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville for my birthday two years ago.

Who is your inspiration?

My food and beverage manager from my time in The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux in Malta, Nico Caruna. Without his guidance and inspiration, I don’t think I could honestly say I would be the sommelier I am today. He made learning about wine and service enjoyable and gave me a broad knowledge of wine far beyond the realms of what the WSET teaches you.

What bottle sparked your oenophilia?

Would have to be Ungeheuer Riesling by Von Winning. It’s a Grosses Gewächs which is Germany’s equivalent to Grand Cru. Ugeheuer translates as “monster” and this wine is certainly monstrous! The acidity jumps out of the glass and is full of that classic minerality you expect from German Riesling with lots of stone fruit. The Riesling is rather uniquely fermented and aged in 500-litre oak barrels for 10 months.

What are standout producers on your list at The Falls Restaurant?

We have many of the big names on our list: Krug, Cheval Blanc, Biondi-Santi, Domaine Leflaive, Gaja, Henschke… However, I am a fan of the obscure and try to consciously choose wines which are more sustainable and low intervention. The standout producers for me are: Jean Foillard from Beaujolais who insists that only gravity racks his wine and uses as little SO2 as possible without compromising on quality or consistency. Also, La Stoppa by Elena Pantaleoni, who describes herself as “la custode de la vigne,” merely a guardian of the vine. And Michael Wenzel who is often considered to be the pioneer of furmint in Austria, and finally Arianna Occhipinti, from my favourite wine region, Sicily. The niece of Giusto Occhipinti of COS estate in Vittoria, Arianna is a young winemaker who believes in following millennia-old agricultural traditions.

Where may we find particular value?

I don’t think many countries can mimic Spain when it comes to their price to quality ratio. They produce some of the most fantastic wines and at very reasonable prices. Italy is good for value as well, though I would advise staying clear of Tuscany, Piedmont, or Veneto. If you want to find real value, look to the often bold and tannic wines of the south.

How many references are on the list?

Around 400 and we are hoping to gradually increase the size of our list as we have been doing over the past year. At one point Sheen Falls Lodge had 800 references!

Is the list available throughout the Lodge and cottages?

Yes – it is important for us that all our guests receive a five-star standard of service and offering.

What cellar experiences do you offer?

We are truly fortunate to have a beautiful cellar built in what was the kitchen of the original Lodge. For our guests we offer a guided wine tasting of six wines selected by our sommelier. We also offer private dining options in the cellar which can be rented out for a drinks reception. And we are happy to offer a simple cellar tour.

What dish would you pair with chef Mark Treacy’s starter of rabbit ravioli, savoy cabbage, Alsace bacon and foie gras velouté?

A light white with just a touch of sweetness for that foie velouté would do it for me. Markus Molitor Haus Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett has just a hint of residual sugar and vibrant acidity to cut through the fattiness of that Alsace bacon. Riesling and cabbage for me is a perfect pairing.

Which grape do you find it hard to have a good relationship with?

Undoubtedly Pinotage. I admit I am probably biased towards it now as even before I taste it, I am already feeling negative about it. I generally really enjoy South African wines so it is a shame for me that I cannot enjoy Pinotage.

Who is the most memorable guest you have looked after?

I have had the pleasure to serve many memorable guests over the years, from famous actors to politicians and even Princes. However, when I think of the most memorable guest it would have to be Mr. Seifert, a lovely man who always came with his family. He used to drink a lot of big wines, and he would always encourage us to taste the wines as well. It was a fantastic opportunity to taste many of the big-name producers and vintages I may have not have otherwise.

Which table in the dining room is the best?

Table seven in the right-hand corner of the lower section of the Falls Restaurant. Easily has the best view of the waterfall which is lit up at night.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

Before I embarked on my hospitality journey, I studied Environmental Science. Ultimately that didn’t work out for me – a bit too heavy on the chemistry! I do often wonder if that is why sustainability in viticulture is so important for me.

Do you prefer ale or lager?

A nice Pale Ale is one of my favourite summer drinks.

Gin or whiskey?

Before dinner I may have a gin as an aperitif and after dinner, I would be having a whiskey!

Cheese or pudding?

No competition here: definitely cheese!

Exercise or meditation?

I was never particularly good at sitting still so I can’t imagine I would be much good at meditation. I try to exercise as frequently as possible.

What keeps you at Sheen Falls Lodge?

I never take it for granted getting to work in such a beautiful cellar and it often makes many of the late nights down there more enjoyable. Relais & Châteaux is an organisation I feel very strongly about, this being the fourth Relais & Châteaux property I have worked at.

And finally, what do you look for in prospective team members?

We believe in hiring on personality – being outgoing, driven, and empathetic. Quentin Caraux, our director of food & beverage is the person you want to get into contact with – quentin@sheenfallslodge.ie.

Sheen Falls Lodge – Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 HR27, Ireland; 353 (0)64 664 1600; info@sheenfallslodge.iesheenfallslodge.ie