Unfiltered: Sam Hancock

The head sommelier of East London’s highly garlanded Clove Club shares his love for heavy metal, the benefits of a social media purge and advice on how to get a table with Douglas Blyde.

What does Clove Club actually mean?

The name was actually “borrowed” from the old boys club of Hackney Downs School at the bottom of the road.

What do you love and loathe about its building?

I love the fact that I get to work in such a beautiful building that has a lot of history. Space can be a limiting factor and the fact that it is a listed building makes life all the more complicated.

What is your birth vintage, and what is drinking well from that year?

I turned 30 in December so drank some 1991 vintages. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde was definitely a highlight and had aged a lot better than I had! López de Heredia Viña Bosconia was showing very well too.

Where did you work before Clove Club?

I was head sommelier at Mana, Manchester. I joined The Clove Club in August 2019 after The Clove Club called me out of the blue offering me a job. Having complete freedom over the list and wine pairing and being able to buy from whoever we want is something that I particularly enjoy and I have just built a fantastic team of somms which is definitely keeping me at the restaurant.

What was the first wine which moved you?

Meerlust Rubicon was one of the first wines I can recall really enjoying when I first started getting into wine and a 2008 Côte-Rôtie by Bernard Burgaud, tasted during my WSET level 3 had quite a profound impact on me too.

Describe your list?

In terms of strengths we have improved our English sparkling wine offering and I think Tuscany is a particularly strong section. Burgundy constantly needs working on, being one of our top selling regions. Chablis needs a facelift. I’d like to focus on more cuvées and vintages from fewer producers which we are particularly fond of.

What is the most standout pairing with a dish by head chef/patron, Isaac McHale?

I find parallels between certain sake styles and oxidative wines. Jumnai Daiginjo sake sings with Isaac’s smoked sardine bone broth served alongside the sashimi. 1984 Peter Lauer Riesling Sekt is also a really cool pairing with the signature hand dived Orkney scallop and black truffle.

What does Isaac like to drink?

Isaac likes lighter styles of red and Truffle Hound by Unico Zelo is his go-to take home drink.

How come non-alcoholic drinks are taken so seriously at Clove Club?

It’s nice to apply our knowledge and understanding of flavour and combinations with wine and apply this to things such as tea. An extra detail that I feel our guests appreciate. We want everyone to feel as though we have thought about their individual needs when coming to join us for a meal.

Who is your idol?

Anthony Bourdain.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I love heavy metal.

And what is the most arresting piece of music you’ve ever heard?

The Yasuke soundtrack is something I’ve listened to a lot recently – it’s an anime on Netflix. Flying Lotus did the soundtrack. There is also an album called Texas-Jerusalem Crossroads by Lift to Experience which is brilliant; the track Falling from Cloud 9 is incredible. 

What is your life motto?

“Finish strong” which is something I have to tell myself when I’m cycling back home to Forest Hill after work each night. 

Is your palate more savoury or sweet?

Both!

Could you find happiness without social media?

Absolutely! I did a purge of social media for about six months during lockdown which was very liberating. I’d recommend it. My attitude and consumption of social media has completely changed since.

Where would your fantasy vineyard be located?

Jurançon.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join Clove Club?

Contact me (samhancock@thecloveclub.com). We want individuals with charisma and no pretentiousness whatsoever. 

Do you have any tips for getting a reservation at Clove Club?

Book for lunch.

The Clove Club – 380 Old Street, London, EC1V 9LT; 020 7729 6496; hello@thecloveclub.com; thecloveclub.com