Unfiltered: Phil Scott

The well-travelled GM of Links House at Royal Dornoch on finding his way home to the Highlands, participating in Australian rules football, and enjoying a bottle of Bollinger from his birth year on Christmas eve…

What does the name MARA mean?

It comes from the Scots Gaelic for sea. A respectful nod to our location and food concept.

What is your vintage?

1981 – a mixed bag in Europe but standouts had to be Bordeaux (however this was overshadowed by the stonking 82s) and for overall consistency, Italy.  Without a doubt, my favourites are Pauillac and Toscana and in particular, Lynch-Bages and Tignanello… both smashing wines just now.

Where did you work before?

My most recent postings were in China, Mongolia and Singapore with Montrose Fine Wines (based in Hong Kong and mainland China) and Kempinski Hotels. Whilst searching for my route to come home, Links House found me. I spent most of my time regaling my guests overseas with the beauty of the Highlands combined with our unique larder and the question was often posed, “What are you doing here then?!” Dornoch is now home for my family and it really is a magical place.

What was the first wine to move you?

Bollinger RD 1981. During my rookie year at Oddbins, we did a tasting on Christmas Eve (morning) of Bolly RD 81 and a bottle of Cristal 1997, for an obligatory compare and contrast! I can still remember it as a freshly baked wholemeal loaf, with a scoop out of it and rich apple pie filling put back in. A very special bottle.

Describe your list at MARA?

It reflects a combination of what our guests expect, what compliments chef’s menus, what is commensurate with our level of product and a judicious chunk of personal favourites!

Is it a collaborative work?

It has been. Over the years our owner’s influence curated the basis for an identifiable list for our overseas guests. This was continued and expanded by me to include some more particular and food focussed wines, including much more by the glass and a tasting flight. More recently my former colleague grafted a number of new European (particularly Spanish) and exciting wines like our Sauvignon Gris from Chile. A more recent addition of the Coravin wine flight is a winner.

How come you can list several wines with decent bottle age?

Historically, we noticed a trend that our guests would latch on to certain wines and vintages.  Our buying policy pivoted to buying a bit in “bulk” and storing in bond. A useful tool which we still use with select products.

It would seem sherry is popular with your guests – is that so?

We do love sherry here though and want to champion the region with seafood. Oysters and Fino or Manzanilla should be the basics.

What is a memorable wine pairing with a dish by head chef, Kevin Barber?

Going into the new season, we look forward to chef Kevin’s interpretation of MARA’s concept.  I’m 100% sure that this menu’s most popular dish will be our crab tortellini with fennel and crab bisque. It’s going to pop with our I Frati Lugana from Ca’ dei Frati. Just a fantastically versatile wine with a lovely little prickle on the tongue from the maturation on its lees.  Refreshing, crisp and will provide support to the dish.

What is your go-to drink at the end of a long day?

Belgian wheat beer or dry, crisp, mouth-puckering white wine.

What is the “Towards Trees for Life Project, Glen Affric” to which guests donate a cover charge?

Trees for Life is a project to rewild/replant the forests of Scotland. Sustainability in all aspects is very important to us and we found a way that we and the guests can contribute to this by donating £3 for every tasting experience sold. It costs £6 to plant a tree, so every couple that enjoys our tasting experience, contributes to our grove in Glen Affric. Similar to Southern Right wines of South Africa to support the whales.

Do you have to be a golfer to truly enjoy Links House at Royal Dornoch?

Definitely not! We’ve been extremely fortunate over the pandemic to welcome our domestic guests to the Highlands. 90% of our new ambassadors are attracted by our unique brand of welcoming comfortable luxury and the Northern Highlands. Golf is, and always will be a great draw however there is more to the North of Scotland than that.

How does the setting of the estate enhance the enjoyment of gastronomy?

We’re blessed with our proximity to the sea, the beautiful views of the Dornoch Firth and over to Portmahomick. This coupled with catching a glimpse of the Struie hill in the distance can help stimulate the notion of where we get some of our core ingredients; seafood from the North Sea, Portmahomick for lobster and sometimes crab.

Do you stock spirits from Thompson Bros at Dornoch Distillery?

We have done in the past and are meeting with them soon to expand our product range with them.

What is the most frustrating guest habit?

No such thing as a frustrating habit, maybe just something our team hasn’t encountered before which should be seen as a challenge to improve our service.

Who is your idol?

Jean-Claude Fourmon from Champagne Joseph Perrier and Ken Forrester in South Africa. JC is a legend and we’ve had him at Links House to do a golf and Champagne weekend. Ken and I met years ago, and I’d planned to go and work for him. Unfortunately, this didn’t happen, but I visited his restaurant near Cape Town a number of years back. Maybe one day I’ll have a vineyard, a restaurant, and a farm…

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I played Australian Rules Football for Scotland.

What is the most useful book you’ve ever read?

Randomly, “China Cuckoo” by Mark Kitto. Helped me through life in China.

What is your motto?

“You don’t ask, you don’t get.”

Where would your fantasy vineyard location be?

Veneto or Tuscany… as long as it’s Italy.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join your team?

Contact: careers@linkshousedornoch.com.

Links House at Royal Dornoch, Golf Road, Dornoch, Scotland, IV25 3LW; 01862 810279; info@linkshousedornoch.co; linkshousedornoch.com