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Unfiltered: Melania Battiston

The head sommelier of Chelsea’s Medlar restaurant talks to Douglas Blyde about her ambition to become the first Italian female Master Sommelier, the meaning of MEDLAR as an acronym, and her favourite tattoo…

What is your vintage? 

1996, from which I have enjoyed the big, powerful, toasty, Taittinger Comtes du Champagne.

What is your origin? 

The small town of Mede, Lombardy.

What did you study?

Tourism in Italy, which aided my sense of geography in relation to wine regions. While considering studying business and marketing, in the UK, I worked as a runner at 28:50 Maddox Street where I met Clement Robert MS who nurtured me. As my mum always advocated, “follow your instincts.” So I pursued wine full-time believing university can wait. Five months later, I was promoted to head sommelier and assistant buyer for the group.

What is your ultimate goal?

To become the first Italian female Master Sommelier and to have my own coaching practice, which I am studying for at Cambridge’s Institute of Continuing Education.

How did you come to Medlar?

When 28-50 closed, then head sommelier of Medlar, Didier Catelo invited me join his team and I rose to become head sommelier and wine buyer when he left.

What is your life motto? 

You can’t control shit except your state of mind.

Describe your approach at Medlar? 

I like to use the acronym “MEDLAR”, being: “Marvellous, Exciting, Dynamic, Limitless, Adaptable and Reliable”. While most of the words are self-explanatory, of “Limitless”, I always invite both my sommeliers, Markron Patana and Irene Banet, and our guests to share ideas about what should go on the list, and as for “Adaptable”, it means we are happy to adapt to every budget.

What areas of the list are you particularly proud of?

The native varieties of Italy, the big focus on New Zealand, and grower Champagnes. We also take adventures into England, Romania and Morocco. Meanwhile, Markron is bringing on his vision for Loire valley and Irene is fostering her love for Spains. Being in Chelsea, we also have a big list of classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, too.

What is the bravest wine which you serve by the glass? 

Nyetimber’s Classic Cuvée from the 2009 base, which is probably one of the oldest examples from the estate which you can still find in the market. It works as an aperitif, with main courses and cheeses such as Vacherin Mont d’Or. I enjoy serving it blind for fun, too.

What has been a cracking match between wine and a dish by head chef and co-owner, Joe Mercer Nairne?

We have an incredible honeycomb ice cream with chocolate tuille which fits perfectly with the non-vintage straw wine from De Trafford. Stellenbosch. The first of its kind in South Africa, this honeyed Chenin enhances the honeycomb while also having chocolate undertones and a coffee flavour that maximises the tuille.

What is Joe like to work with? 

Having read Archaeology and Anthropology at Oxford, the beauty of Joe is that he really knows what he’s talking about and is very opinionated. He always has great insights and can explain complicated things in an easy manner. Most importantly, he is a huge wine lover.

What music is played at Medlar? 

Depending on the mood of the day, it ranges from Frank Sinatra to the soundtrack of “Succession”.

What other restaurant has inspired you?

Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana where I had the chance to do a stage and witness the fiery and enthusiastic relationship between the kitchen and the front of house which results in a synergy that delivers an unforgettable world class experience.

What is your favourite cocktail? 

The classic Negroni in winter, or a frozen margarita will do the job on a summer’s day.

Do you prefer tea or coffee?

I prefer matcha to coffee, which keeps my energy levels higher for longer.

What ingredient do you most rate? 

Extra virgin Italian olive oil which has to combine fruitiness with a little bitterness and a tingle of spiciness.

Tell us something surprising about yourself? 

I failed the Certified Master Sommelier exam three times but didn’t give up and went on to win the first prize for the Gérard Basset Tasting Trophy. It was proof that with consistency, hard work, commitment and resilience, you can achieve anything you want.

What is your favourite book? 

“Feel The Fear And Do It Anyway: How to Turn Your Fear and Indecision into Confidence and Action” by Susan Jeffers.

What is the most memorable wine-rinsed lunch you’ve ever partaken of? 

Featuring Cristal 2008, Dom Ruinart 2006 and 2007, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Brut Rosé 2007, it occurred at Restaurant L’Assiette Champenoise on the last day of the Champagne Academy course. It was all about celebrating a “difficult” Champagne week with amazing company and Michelin-starred food.

Where would your fantasy vineyard be?

Monferrato, which I call the “less fortunate Langhe.” One day it’ll become popular once it is marketed properly. I would like to see and list many more wines from Monferrato at Medlar.

What is your favourite tattoo?

A light bulb which represents enlightenment, ideas and brightness.

Who should prospective team members contact if they want to join the Medlar family? 

Write to me at: info@medlarrestaurant.co.uk. We look at social intelligence, empathy, kindness and honesty in a person rather than knowledge, which can be learnt.

Medlar – 438 Kings Road, Chelsea, London, SW10 0LJ; 020 7349 1900; info@medlarrestaurant.co.uk; medlarrestaurant.co.uk

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