Unfiltered: Ian Macrae

A “Fifer” via Napa, Ian Macrae of The Peat Inn, which became Scotland’s first restaurant to win a Michelin star in 1984, talks to Douglas Blyde about keeping his list vibrant, a dislike of Gamay, and basking in being called “The Big Man”…

What is your vintage?

I’m a Fifer born in the USA in 1963 which has saved me a fortune in birthday wines as it was an almost universally terrible year for wines, except for Port.

What bottle sparked your oenophilia?

In the 1980s I used to manage a pizza restaurant in Calistoga in the Napa Valley and traded a pizza for a bottle of wine from a field worker who only drank beer. I like to think I got the best end of the deal, it being Joseph Phelps Insignia. The wine was fabulous.

Who is your inspiration?

The late David Wilson, former chef-proprietor of the Peat Inn, who enlightened me to the joy of the world of fine wine.

What was it like to work alongside him?

David’s passion for wine was infectious, but he never preached. He knew what he liked and if you preferred something else then that was fine. His best advice: always look for the fruit. Wine is a drink made from fruit and that’s the first and main thing to look for. Ignore the fancy labelling, gimmicks, hype and celebrity endorsement.

Describe the setting of The Peat Inn?

In the village of Peat Inn overlooking the beautiful countryside of the middle of the East Neuk of Fife, just 10 mins from St. Andrews.

What are standout producers on your list?

I always enjoy having top burgundy producers like Dujac, Gouges, De Montille and de L’Arlot strutting their stuff.

Where can we find value?

Spain is generally the best place to shop for value.

How many references are there?

Coming out of multiple lockdowns our list is leaner and less wordy. Personally, I prefer this as it enables me to make more changes to the list and keep it fresh and vibrant as well as promoting interaction over a wine selection.

Describe an excellent wine match with a dish by head chef, Geoffrey Smeddle?

Roast loin of Cairngorms red deer with Stornoway black pudding, red cabbage, kohlrabi and grand veneur sauce matched with a great Rioja, Finca Manzanos Gran Reserva 2001.

Which grape do you find it hard to get along with?

I’ve never been overly keen on Gamay but when it is blended with Pinot it makes me shudder with a mix of pain and sadness.

What ingredient do you struggle to enjoy?

Satan’s vegetable, celery. Consommés and green olives are also a toughie to match up if you’re not going down the sherry route.

What’s your go-to drink at the end of a long day?

A thirst-quenching bottle of Deuchars IPA. It’s not a good idea to drink wine when you’re tired and thirsty!

Who is the most memorable guest you have looked after?

There have been so many famous and memorable guests from all walks of life over the years at The Peat Inn. Being described by former Scotland centre-back and manager, Alex McLeish as “The big man” always goes down well.

What table in the restaurant is your favourite?

Any table I’m sitting at instead of standing in front of.

Do you oversee the drinks selection in bedrooms?

Yes. The Champagne selection is especially popular!

Describe the playlist?

Upbeat, modern, and discrete.

Does the inn have a ghost?

No, there are way too many good vibes and happy memories throughout the building.

Do you apply aspects of your Social Sciences degree to hospitality?

Only in so far as a good general degree helps you settle a lot of debates between the guests who look to you as an impartial fount of all knowledge.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I want to be a lion tamer. I have the hat.

Who should prospective candidates contact if they want to join the Peat Inn?

Email me, ianmacrae@thepeatinn.co.uk. We can teach candidates the mechanics of the job and the nuances of the wine world, but they need to be able to relate to people, be keen to learn and have an understanding of the fundamentals of teamwork.

The Peat Inn – Near St. Andrews, Fife, Scotland, KY15 5LH; 01334 840206; stay@thepeatinn.co.uk; thepeatinn.co.uk