Unfiltered: Julien Beltzung

The Glenturret, Scotland’s oldest working distillery (1763), was purchased by Lalique Group and Dr. Hansjorg Wyss, owner of the Californian Halter Ranch winery in March 2019. The refined drinks offer in the stunningly situated The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, including a peated new make martini and likely, Scotland’s largest Alsatian wine selection is orchestrated by the personable Julien Beltzung…

What is your vintage? 

1997 – a good year for Alsace, especially late harvest styles.

What was the first wine to move you? 

My dad introduced me to Kuentz-Bas Grand Cru Eichberg 1996 Riesling from South Colmar. I love mature wines, and from this cold year, it had inexplicably developed truffle notes as well as a momentary sweetness that soon vanished. I never had the chance the meet the winemaker that sadly passed away.

Where did you work before The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant? 

I started at Lalique’s first restaurant, Villa René Lalique in Alsace when I was studying hospitality, then segued to Hôtel & Restaurant Lalique at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes. For a change, I spent a year in Hong Kong at Somm and Amber at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental. Compared to the trendy, fancy, busy city which became engulfed in protests, I much prefer nature which is why I came to Crieff in Perthshire.

How does the restaurant look?

Dating to 1763, Glenturret distillery appears traditional but conceals a warm and inviting space lit by glowing Lalique chandeliers with the windows capturing the view of the mountains. When these are open you can hear the soothing sound of the river flowing by from which we draw the water to make the whisky. The designer used accents of the local tartan in a classy way.

Describe your list? 

I am proud of every single bottle, especially the collections of Latour, Mouton and Pétrus and brought from the personal cellar of the co-owner of Lalique and Glenturret, Silvio Denz can boast perfect provenance. We also have the biggest selection of Alsace in Scotland, it being the home region of Lalique. So, you can have Alsatian wines served by an Alsatian sommelier in hand-blown Alsatian stemware.

How many wines do you have?

We started with 430 listings when we opened last July and are, with beautiful Austrian wines on their way, now approaching 500. With just six tables, I don’t see the need to grow much beyond that: I don’t much like dusting bottles and instead prefer them to be opened and shared.

How is wine served?

Our beautiful Lalique Versailles decanters rest upon Carrara marble bases which are first frozen. This means we can keep wines fresh without an ice bucket. When filled was golden sweet wines brightened by the white marble plinths and set on our seven-metre long black onyx counter, the effect is “wow!”

What has been a harmonious wine and food match with a dish by executive chef, Mark Donald? 

The Junmai Daiginjo 45, Keigetsu from Kōchi Prefecture which I discovered while in Hong Kong with Scottish langoustine ceviche with caviar wrapped in a buttermilk taco with yoghurt, dashi and tuna gel and leche de tigre, finished with matcha. The result is dry, fresh and floral.

What ingredient is hard to match with wine? 

Depending on their variety, origin and ripeness, tomatoes can be tricky. Sometimes I match based on colour, selecting a rosé. I have also pared the remarkable tomato liqueur by Laurent Cazotte who is based in the Tarn with summery dishes. This combines no fewer than 51 varieties of tomato which he grew himself organically.

How do you make the signature New Make martini?

I stir the peated new make spirit from Glenturret with umeshu, adding a few drops of olive brine for a sense of umami followed by a twist of grapefruit.

Who are your favourite artists? 

Agi Simoes and Reto Guntli capture beautiful interiors, such as The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant with optimism in their many books.

What is your life motto? 

Take care of, and learn from, the people around you.

The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant – Glenturret Distillery, The, Hosh, Crieff, PH7 4HA; 01764 656565; reservations@theglenturret.com; theglenturretrestaurant.com