Unfiltered: Garry Clark

Garry Clark is head sommelier at Palé Hall, “an historic house on the edge of Snowdonia.” He talks to Douglas Blyde about his inspirations, the experience of serving Sir Billy Connolly, and the importance of “mucking in”.

What is your vintage?

The mixed bag of 1971. I was once fortunate to be able to disgorge a bottle of de Venoge Champagne from this year which was a sublime moment in my career. I was inducted into the Confrerie on the back of my performance.

Where did you work before Palé Hall?

I was the sommelier at the Simon Radley restaurant at the Chester Grosvenor for the best part of 12 years having joined from Gleneagles where I had been joint head sommelier with a friend managing a team of 12. What keeps me here is the passion that our owners and management have, the freedom they give me over the wine list and the beautiful location I get to work in each day.

Describe the philosophy of Palé Hall?

Our owners’ philosophy is that this isn’t a hotel: it’s your home for the duration of your stay with us, and to that end, we provide friendly, informal service that allows our guests to enjoy their stay with the minimum of fuss. Our gorgeous scenery and the calm quiet of the surrounding countryside helps them to relax. I would also say that we try to take a measured approach to wine pricing, keeping margins sensible on higher value bottles to encourage people to explore and trade-up without feeling exploited.

What was the first wine to move you? 

An unknown German Riesling which I tried when I went to Germany with the cadets whilst at boarding school. It was a sweeter style that had been bottled especially for the regiment we were staying with, and I was allowed to buy a bottle to bring home. I was taken with its freshness and sharpness and how it evolved to become sweeter.

Describe your list? 

A broad mix of old world and new with a sprinkling of icons and producers I’ve been working with for many, many years. In that sense, it’s slightly indulgent in that it’s peppered with my favourites, such as Charles Melton, Ascheri and Pira, whom I’ve developed a connection with and will continue to champion wherever I end up.

What has been a standout pairing with chef, Gareth Stevenson’s cuisine? 

Our sweetcorn dish of sweetcorn custard, succotash, BBQ cob, paprika popcorn and maize tuille paired with Japanese Koshu from Château Mercian – their Fuefuki Gris de Gris from Yamanashi prefecture. It usually blows peoples’ minds that Japan makes wine, so already I’ve gotten them intrigued. The wine is an onion skin colour from skin contact which again raises interest and when they taste it, they discover a nose of white flowers then a fresh vibrant palate encompassing green tea and apricot flavours. It never fails to get people talking.

What is your favourite digestif? 

Mature rum, which, in the old days I would have enjoyed with a cigar.

What guest habits do you find exasperating? 

I get frustrated when I’m trying to take an order and guests only give me 20% of their attention. I get it’s their night out, but all I want is a couple of minutes of their full attention so I can ensure we get the order right and account for any dietary requirements or allergies. Then they have the rest of their evening to themselves. The other thing is the seeming proliferation of self-diagnosed food intolerances/allergies that people use to mask their own picky natures. The kind of people who cite a dairy allergy causing the kitchen no end of last-minute grief as they try to magic a dairy-free meal out of thin air with minutes notice, only to turn round and demand ice cream for dessert, because “it’s alright when it’s frozen”. These people make our lives harder than they need to be and unfortunately give people with genuine and life-threatening allergies a bad rep.

Who is your inspiration? 

I got my first role in the world of Sommelierie working for Gordon Ramsay under then group sommelier, Ronan Sayburn. He gave me support and encouragement, introduced me to key suppliers and gave me some great opportunities. I was also once picked to be part of an industry peer support group by the late great Gerrard Basset, a true titan of the industry, something that humbled me completely as I felt I wasn’t worthy of sitting at the same table as him in terms of my position in the industry. I’ve tried to follow both their leads in terms of their temperament, their commitment to their teams, their peers and to the world of sommelierie.

What is the most incredible book you’ve read? 

100 years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez which I’ve always wanted to be able to read it in its native language, though my language skills leave much to be desired.

Who is the most famous person you’ve served? 

Over thirty years in the industry I’ve been fortunate to have served many famous and influential people. Mostly they’ve been straightforward and remarkably down to earth. My favourite remains Sir Billy Connolly who used to come into the hotel I worked at in Glasgow for a cup of tea whenever he was in town. He was incredibly charming, polite and generous with his time and wit, entertaining the inevitable crowds who would gather around him with jokes and banter. He was also a generous tipper!

Where is your fantasy vineyard location? 

A toss-up between Burgundy and Champagne. I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Burgundy and partake in the vendage with the wonderful Vallet family who took me into their home and shared the spirit of their winemaking with me, so it holds a special place in my heart. Perhaps a small plot on the outskirts of Nuits-St-George or Morey-St-Denis? Maybe a Premier Cru vineyard if I’m lucky! In Champagne, I would love something a little off the beaten track, maybe in the Aube, a little grower Champagne, perhaps focussing on Meunier.

How should prospective team members apply to join your team?

Please send your CV to jan.roberts@palehall.co.uk or generalmanager@palehall.co.uk. We tend to employ on personality: skills can be taught but personality cannot. We’re a close-knit family and want people who don’t have a “that’s not my job” kind of mentality. We do whatever needs doing and muck in to ensure guests have the best possible experience, meaning I might start my day putting away a wine delivery before spending time on the pot wash, then taking luggage to a room.

Tell us something surprising about yourself? 

I’m virtually teetotal.