The Dish: Ben Marks, Perilla

Born in Stoke Newington, Ben Marks culinary journey began in Stockholm, where at the age of 15 he worked as a commis chef at the Michelin-starred Operakällaren in Stockholm. Upon his return to the UK, he began training at Bournemouth and Poole College, which included an apprenticeship with the Academy of Culinary Arts, placing him at Claridge’s where he trained for three years. Retuning to formative years in Scandinavia, Marks moved to Copenhagen in 2012 to take up the position of chef de partie at the two-Michelin-starred Noma alongside culinary trailblazer René Redzepi. Back in London, Marks landed a position working alongside Phil Howard at Michelin two-starred The Square. Upon leaving, Marks teamed up with friend and restaurateur Matt Emmerson, hosting numerous pop-ups under the name Perilla, before opening a permanent site, Perilla Dining, in Newington Green in 2016. Today, the modern European restaurant is ranked #11 in Time Out’s Best Restaurants in London. As for Marks, in 2017 he won the Food & Travel 2017 award for ‘Breakthrough Chef of the Year’, was shortlisted for the Young British Foodie 2017 award for ‘The Chef’ and was also included in Forbes’ 30 Under 30 Europe 2018 list. Here, the ambitious chef offers his advice to aspiring chefs, laments on a ‘terrible’ pea dessert and reveals his favourite London restaurants.

What/who influenced your decision to become a chef?

I’ve always cooked at home with my dad and really enjoyed it growing up. Also watching cooking programs on TV definitely helped.

Can you remember/describe your first shift in a kitchen?

My first few shifts were as a kitchen porter, I remember it being bloody hot and wet.

What is your earliest wine memory?

New Year’s Eve when I was 13, we stole a bottle from my parents!

What has been your most memorable meal?

Has to be The Ledbury about a year ago. It was perfect in every way.

How important is wine to a meal, from a chef’s point of view?

Absolutely crucial, as important as the food in many ways.

What would be your ultimate food and wine pairing?

The cuttlefish bolognese we serve at Perilla with a chilled glass of xacoli.

Who is your inspiration in the winemaking and gastronomic world and why?

In the gastronomic world probably Phil Howard (Elystan Street) and Martyn Nail (Claridge’s Hotel). They are both great successful chefs whilst also being lovely people.

Biggest kitchen disaster?

A pea dessert we once had on the menu. It was terrible…

If you could give your younger self advice starting out as a chef, what would it be?

Don’t be scared to make mistakes.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing?

I’d be sat on a beach drinking a cold beer.

Besides cooking, which talent would you most like to have?

I would love to be great at tennis.

What would be your best piece of culinary advice for an aspiring home cook?

Learn how to use salt to season properly and always have a sharp knife.

If you could only eat at one restaurant for the rest of your life, where would you choose?

Diyakabir Kitchen in Harringay.

What else would you like to achieve in life?

I’d like to be a great father.

And finally, what is your life motto?

Work hard, play hard.