New on Wine List Confidential: The Cinnamon Club

Wine consultant, Laurent Chaniac, has assuredly put together an appealing, ready-to-drink list, echoing the restaurant’s interest in sustainability. It is largely accessibly priced – and does not automatically feature an added service charge. In Chaniac’s words, ‘we focus on wines produced from strong ecosystems meaning the minimum use of chemicals. Careful viticulture helps keep soils alive and resulting wines tend to have a sense of place, being more mineral and complex.

The flagship restaurant of the Bengal born, Oberoi luxury hotels and resorts trained chef, Vivek Singh occupies the atmospheric sedate Grade II-listed former Westminster Library.

Wine consultant, Laurent Chaniac has assuredly put together an appealing, ready to drink list echoing the restaurant’s interest in sustainability. This is largely accessibly priced, too, and notably for a restaurant of this stature, does not automatically feature an added service charge. In Chaniac’s words, ‘we focus on wines produced from strong ecosystems meaning minimum use of chemicals. Careful viticulture helps keep soils alive and the resulting wines tend to have a sense of place, being more mineral and complex.’

Chaniac’s list is dominated by Western Europe ‘with a good accent on Australia,’ such as Pinot Noir from Victoria’s Dixon Vineyard, identified under the ‘matured red’ selection. Also expect ‘some really interesting wines from the USA’ including historical vintages of Opus One. Many wines are ‘interesting variations of the local norm, e.g. wines from hotter climates tending to be fresher than usual while retaining the rich character of the warmer sites, while wines from cooler climates tend to be riper and richer than the norm.’

By the glass, and carafe, expect a strong selection ranging from Istrian Malvasia, to opulent Meursault, Patagonian Malbec and Palo Cortado sherry (Lustau), as well as Blanc des Noirs from England and Lombardy pin up, Franciacorta (Contadi Castaldi).

Given the depthfully spiced nature of dishes by Singh and head chef, Rakesh Nair, there will be plenty of food-friendly Rieslings, Sauvignon Blancs (including Sula’s Maharashtra from India), and Pinot Gris to dovetail.

Starters may include tandoori octopus with chutney aloo, fennel salad and tomato lemongrass dressing, then tandoori loin of Oisin red deer with black stone flower reduction and fenugreek potatoes, or, to share, Old Delhi style butter chicken on the bone, black lentils, pilau rice and garlic naan. To finish, try the lemon and ginger brûlée with masala sable, perhaps paired with a succulent glass of Côteaux du Layon.

Singh also oversees Cinnamon Soho, Cinnamon Kitchen and Cinnamon Bazaar, the latter of which are set for a nationwide rollout.

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Restaurants are graded on a 100-point scale based on five criteria: size, value, service, range and originality. For a full guide to London’s best wine lists visit winelistconfidential.com

the drinks business published the inaugural 2017 Wine List Confidential: One to Sixty-One guide last year. We are currently working on a new 2018 edition and are busy re-reviewing top-scoring restaurants and adding new entries to the database. Check back later in the year for final scoring and position of restaurants.