Seely: Petit Verdot capable of sensational things in the Douro

Having spent the last 25 years reviving historic Port house Quinta do Noval, Christian Seely is turning his attention toward the Douro’s red wine mission, flagging Petit Verdot as one of the “most thrilling” international varieties to have emerged.

Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millesimes, which owns Quinta do Noval in the Douro

Seely bought his private Quinta da Romaneira estate, up river from Quinta do Noval, which is owned by AXA Millesimes, in 2004 with the intention of exploring the Douro’s still red wine potential.

At Romaneira, 75% of production is still, with the remainder Port, while at Quinta do Noval that balance is reversed.

“I have a bit more volume to experiment,” said Seely, who also oversees Pichon Baron in Bordeaux and the Disznoko winery in Tokaji in his role of managing director at AXA Millesimes.

“I make single varietal Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and I am aiming to make a single varietal Tinto Cao. These things are really interesting for the Portuguese market where everyone knows what the varieties are but only see them in blends. The chance to try them on their own is great. But it is true that when you get outside to the US you are still having to explain to people where Portugal is and then the Douro and the various varieties. I think Touriga Nacional has a chance of breaking out and becoming the known variety.”

In terms of international varieties, Seely has trialled Cabernet Sauvignon, Mouvedre, Petit Verdot and Syrah in the Douro, both at Noval and at Quinta da Romaneira. Commenting of the results, Seely said Syrah had adapted “incredibly well to the Douro Valley”, however it is Petit Verdot that he believes to hold the most promise.

Seely began working with the variety at Romaneira in 2004, producing the first single varietal Petit Verdot with the 2011 vintage.

“I have always liked Petit Verdot but it has never worked in a blend at Pichon [Baron, in Bordeaux], explains Seely. “You can see that it is a great grape variety, but that it probably needs more sun, which in the Douro we have lots of. We planted it at Romaneira and it was a bit disappointing for the first few years. It likes sun but also water. So we irrigated one hectare of Petit Verdot and it turned into something extraordinary.”

Seely has since expanded his plantings of Petit Verdot to 1.5 hectares at Romaneira, and planted a smaller amount at Noval.

“I think its capable of doing sensational things in the Douro,” said Seely. “The extraordinary thing is how young the vines are. At Romaneira we planted in 2004. In the Medoc people say Petit Verdot is a variety that needs to be 30 years old before it is great. So if we are seeing this quality here already in the Douro, let’s see what happens in the future.”

Views over the Quinta da Romaneira estate

In comparison he said the results of Mouvedre were “disappointing” and Cabernet Sauvignon “a complete disaster”.

“It jumped out at you and said I’m Cabernet Sauvignon,” he explains. “It wasn’t a terroir wine. It could have come from anywhere. It was the exact opposite of what I hoped it would do.”

Explaining his urge to experiment beyond the Douro’s indigenous varieties, Seely added: “I am totally committed to making great wine with Douro grape varieties, but I’m also committed to the Douro and to trying to extract greatness. In that way I am prepared to try anything and if it doesn’t work give up. If the variety settles down and likes being here like Syrah and Petit Verdot and works unlike anywhere else in the world then why not?”

Currently, Seely produces 13 still wines at Romaneira, including a 100% Petit Verdot, Touriga Nacional and Syrah under his Quinta da Romaneira label, as well as a Quinta da Romaneira Reserve White DOC, made from a blend of Malvasia and Gouveio.

Describing the emergence of Douro red wines as an “enormous shot in the arm for the Douro”, Seely explained that it wouldn’t have been possible to establish Quinta da Romaneira as a Port house, but that the growth of still wines was helping producers independent from the big Port houses to thrive.

A selection of Quinta da Romaneira’s still red portfolio, including a single varietal Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Petit Verdot.

“Historically the tendency has been for Port to be sold as a brand rather that the top name of a Quinta,” he said. “Douro red wines are sold as a product of individual terroir because that what they are. What’s important about this evolution is that it becomes possible for independent producers to to tap into the Douro, which it never was before.

“You might get lucky and have a vintage Port in the first few years, but if you are looking for a distributor they will say show me the rest of your portfolio, your LBV your 40 YO. You really need 20 years before you can establish yourself as a Port brand. If you are a Quinta of an exciting Douro red wines you can show it and your off, and then you can say ‘I also make a Port’.

“The Douro red wines have brought an energy into the Douro. Independent producers that might not necessarily link with the big producers and I think that been positive for the Douro Valley.”

IT BEGAN WITH A HAT…

Seely joined AXA Millesimes in 1993, shortly after it purchased the once beleaguered Quinta do Noval. As its managing director, Seely now oversees Quinta do Noval, Pichon Baron in Bordeaux and Discnoko in Hungary, among others.

In that time, he has helped to turn the Port house around, restoring the reputation of the 145 hectare estate through an extensive replanting programme and complete renovation of its winery and historic quinta.

Quinta da Romaneira’s Branco Reserva 2016, made form a blend of Malvasia and Gouveio.

“We replanted 100 hectares in the 1990s. It looked terrifying at the time,” recalled Seely. “To see all those vines dug up was quite scary and it took eight years. Now we are in a very sweet spot because all that replanting of the vineyards means that we have a lot of the noble varieties all coming into their most productive period in terms of quality, and that’s going to last for another 30 years.”

Asked if there was a moment when he knew he had succeeded in his bid to return the estate to its former glory, Seely recalled the purchase of his first hat in London in 1999.

“I had always fancied the idea of wearing a hat but had never dared,” he said. “I thought, things are going well I’m going to buy a hat in St James’ – a trilby. I walked out wearing my first hat and my phone rang. It was a US rep and they told me we had just received 200 points from Robert Parker, following his report on the 1997 vintage Ports.

“Our Quinta do Noval vintage and Nacional both had 100 points. More importantly no other vintage Port had 100 points. I thought ‘I should buy a hat more often’. That was the moment. I thought, now people are going to realise that Noval is back.”