Opportunity knocks for Austrian reds

Fields, Morris & Verdin has just taken on its first Blaufränkisch producer, K&K Kirnbauer. The news marks a small but positive step in the UK for Austria’s efforts to position this variety as a red counterbalance to the successful niche it has carved with Grüner Veltliner.

Although representing just over 5% of the country’s total vineyard plantings, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board has earmarked Blaufränkisch as a key ambassador for its mission to promote Austrian reds.

Susanne Staggl, marketing manager for the AWMB, outlined a plan to "put the focus on the special terroirs of Blaufränkisch, ie Leithaberg DAC, Eisenberg DAC and Mittelburgenland DAC, which are the perfect representatives of the variety and their expression in this region."    

The 35 hectare Kirnbauer estate is located in the Mittelburgenland, whose pockets of deep, rich clay soil provide prime territory for age-worthy Blaufränkisch with good length. Although very close to the Neusiedlersee, the vineyards are 200m above sea level, thereby avoiding the fog and botrytis which are so conducive to the region’s famous Ausbruchs.

Markus Kirnbauer, who assists his father Walter in the winery, as well as overseeing exports, is clear about the identity and potential of his family’s flagship grape. “We do not compare ourselves with St Laurent or Zweigelt,” he explained, pointing out: “From a genetic point of view, Blaufränkisch is a cousin of Sangiovese.”

Within its Blaufränkisch range, Kirnbauer produces a particularly good value example under the Vitikult label. A collaborative effort between eight local wineries, each makes their wines separately in their own style, but shares transport and promotional costs, passing on the benefits from this economy of scale to the end consumer. Moreover, Kirnbauer explained, “the idea is not just to promote Vitikult, but also the Mittelburgenland and Blaufränkisch.”

While the estate is just five minutes drive from the Hungarian town of Sopron, home of the variety in its guise as Kekfrankos, Kirnbauer marked a distinction in the approach to vinification. “Their technology and wood is not so elegant,” he claimed, also noting the stronger influence Sopron feels from the Neusiedlersee. However, he added: “We have more in common with these wines than with Blaufränkisch from Leithaberg in the north of Austria, where the granite gives completely different soil.”

Despite the fact that this grape most commonly appears as a single varietal wine, the Kirnbauer flagship, Das Phantom, is a 40% Blaufränkisch-dominated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. As the Hungarians across the border are showing with their bikaver, Blaufränkisch has plenty to offer in this incarnation, bringing a real sense of place and character to the international varietal melting pot.

Although his family’s wines have been available in a low-key way in the UK for the past four years, Kirnbauer believes this new agency will give the wines the boost he is seeking. “Our first focus is sommeliers and restaurants so that people notice Blaufränkisch,” he explained, “Then you can go into retail, otherwise it doesn’t get noticed.”

Adrian Burns, London & regional account manager for Fields, Morris & Verdin, shares this strategic view for Blaufränkisch’s profile building efforts in the UK. He predicts: “I am confident that the variety will get a firm foothold in the on-trade at the mid- and upper-level where enthusiastic sommeliers will push this exciting variety for its fruit, acid, versatility with food matching and range of styles.”

Nevertheless, Burns believes that the path for Blaufränkisch may be a little rockier than that trodden by Grüner Veltliner a few years ago. “I think that generally people are far more willing to be experimental with white wines than reds,” he suggests.

“Also, style wise, Grüner Veltliner is easier to appreciate at an entry level with its floral nose, zippy, fresh style and pleasant stone-fruit palate, whereas the high acid and grip of a young and simple Blaufränkisch is perhaps not as readily appreciated on its own without food.”

Rather importantly, there is no sense that this is simply a novelty grape variety for marketing teams to play with. Burns is emphatic on this point, saying: “The wines I have tried so far have been genuinely good and extremely enjoyable and definitely stack up when tasted alongside the competition at similar price points, whether £5 or £20+. These are not wines that are simply interesting for the sake of being interesting.”

Andrea Bricarello, head sommelier at the Galvin restaurants in London, is a firm Blaufränkisch fan, finding it a particularly good match for the game-heavy menu at Galvin La Chapelle. He believes this variety is building a positive image within the trade, saying: “Lots of my colleagues know and sell it. The best thing to do is put it on by the glass and make people try it.”

At the consumer end, Bricarello observed: “99% of the time people are shocked but pleasantly surprised – they don’t think of Austria as a red wine country, but I sell quite a few unusual wines so they’re used to me recommending crazy things.” Moreover, he observed: “I think customers are always looking for new countries and flavours.”

Kirnbauer feels that fashion may also be swinging in Blaufränkisch’s favour, particularly the style pursued by his own family. “Lighter, crisper, lower alcohol wines are coming back in fashion now, which wasn’t the case 10 years ago,” he noted. With any luck, the tide is finally turning for this long-overlooked gem in Austria’s collection.

Gabriel Savage, 02.12.2010