Premium Aussies show strengths and weaknesses

The UK wine trade is failing to appreciate Australia’s increasing quality and diversity according to Liberty Wines, award-winning importer and organiser of this week’s inaugural Premium Australian Wine Tasting.

The event, which included back vintages and new releases from iconic producers such as Cullen and Polish Hill, as well as seminars, was designed to draw attention to the range from Down Under, as well as discuss Australia’s image problem in Britain’s restaurant sector.

Speaking at the tasting on Tuesday at Smiths of Smithfield, Liberty Wines’ managing director David Gleave MW told the drinks business why the importer decided to instigate the day-long event. “We still need to repeat the message to the trade that Australia is not just the source of commodity wines,” he said.

“It’s time Australia got out and told the story; it has taken a bit of stick in recent years but Australia is now more exciting and varied than it has ever been.”

Continuing he commented, “In the early 90’s when I first started importing Australian wine there were around 900 wineries and nearly 90% of the industry was controlled by the big four. Now 70% is controlled by the big four and there are over 2,000 wineries,” he added, highlighting the increased diversity.

However, speaking of Liberty Wines’ own experience of the category he stated, “We have seen an increase in our sales of Australia over the last 12 months” – a surprising result considering this period included not only recessionary trading but also a rise in wine prices due the increased strength of the Australian dollar.

Alongside the tasting was a seminar chaired by Michael Hill-Smith MW, owner of Shaw and Smith winery in the Adelaide Hills, which considered Australia’s place and future in the UK on-trade, in particular, why the country is not as dominant in restaurants as it is in retailers.

Rowley Leigh, chef and owner of Le Café Anglais was first to offers his views on Australia’s problem. “It’s a victim of its own success – the country’s wines are in every gastropub in London,” he said, adding that restaurateurs like him were looking for “a point of difference”.

Following Leigh, owner of The Old Bridge hotel John Hoskins MW said Australia had “three major threats” to its ability to sell premium wine in the on-trade.

He initially singled out Chardonnay, and said, “A general demise in the grape’s popularity has definitely affected our ability to sell premium Australian white wine because it dominates – which is a shame now Australia is so good at making premium Chardonnay.”

He added, “Customers pinpoint the blame on overoaked 80’s Australian Chardonnay. We can now sell three times as much David Ramey Californian Chardonnay as Cullen Chardonnay.”

Hoskins also cited the recession as a threat because “People retreat to what they know and buying the heritage of the Old World does seem to work for them.” He finally stressed the damage to the Australia’s image due to “supermarkets and discounting”.

Hill-Smith, defending Australia’s position in the UK, said, “Look at what Australia has to offer – it has some of most exciting dry aromatic Rieslings in the world; Sauvignon Blanc that is not excessively herbaceous and short on palate, and Chardonnay that is very exciting.”

“Perhaps we have not been good at passing on the message of our great diversity of styles,” he admitted, before concluding, “We need to be better at exciting you about wines that excite us.”

For more on Australia’s attempts to boost its premium wine credentials see September’s edition of the drinks business, including an interview with Neil McGuigan on evolving Australia’s wine styles and an extensive feature on the country’s new promotional campaign, A+ Australian Wine – every one has a story.

See below for a list of the brands present at the Liberty Wine’s Premium Australia tasting and the wines their owners/winemakers chose as inspirational and presented at the event.

Cullen
Vanya Cullen’s inspirational wine: 2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Pucelles”

Plantagenet
Winemaker John Durham’s inspirational wine: 2007 Georg Breuer “Terra Montosa” Rheingau Riesling

Mount Horrocks
Winemaker Stephanie Toole’s inspirational wine: 2005 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling

Grosset

Dandelion Vineyards*
Owner Zar Brooks’s inspirational wine: 1958 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet

Shaw and Smith
Owner Michael Hill-Smith’s inspirational wine: 2006 Bonneau du Martray Corton

Charles Melton
Charlie Melton’s inspirational wine: 2001 Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia

John Duval Wines
John Duval’s inspirational wine: 1998 Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz

Willunga 100
winemaker Tim James’s inspirational wine: 2005 Dujac Burgundy

Mitolo
Winemaker Ben Glaetzer’s inspirational wine: Michele Satta Piastaia Bolgheri

S.C. Pannell

Balnaves
Winemaker Pete Bissell’s inspirational wine: 1991 John Riddoch, Wynns Coonawarra

Innocent Bystander
Winemaker Steve Flamsteed’s inspirational wine: 2004 JF Coche Dury Meursault ‘Les Rougeots’

William Downie
Owner Bill Downie’s inspirational wine: 2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin ‘Les Cazetiers’

Greenstone Vineyard
Winemaker Alberto Antonini’s inspirational wine: 1998 Barolo “Riserva Monfortino” di Giacomo Conterno

Clonakilla
Winemaker Tim Kirk’s inspirational wine: 2006 Jasmin Côte Rôtie

* Dandelion Vineyards is owned by Zar Brooks and new to the Liberty Wines’ portfolio. The tasting on Tuesday was its first UK showing.

Patrick Schmitt, 09.09.10