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Del’Aziz adds Bermondsey outlet
d=”standfirst”>The gastronomic credentials of Bermondsey have received a welcome boost with the July opening of a new branch of Del’Aziz in this up-and-coming corner of London.
Although slightly off the average radar, the restaurant is just a 10 minute walk from London Bridge, with a path through the SE1 wilderness already cleared substantially by the likes of Delfina and Bermondsey Kitchen. Del’Aziz itself is located within Bermondsey Square, a new, rather smart regeneration project from Southwark Council.
For those not familiar with its other London branches, the Del’Aziz format is inspired by dishes from north Africa and the eastern Mediterranean. The venue combines a restaurant, bar, boutique bakery and gift shop.
While the dining area is light and subtly themed, the bar is a cosier, far more atmospheric affair, similar to what you might expect in some fashionable den in downtown Marrakech. Looking down through a section of transparent floor, you see the remains of the 12th century Bermondsey Abbey. Outside tables offer yet more space on top of the 70 covers inside, as well as the opportunity for a relaxed shisha pipe.
Unsurprisingly, mezze, tagine and kebabs provide the main focus here, with all the classics you might expect as well as some more original additions. Tabouleh, saffron marinated chicken kebabs or a spicy split pea and aubergine stew offer a broad spread of options for all levels of hunger.
The cocktail list offers a creative Middle Eastern twist on some familiar drinks. Try a refreshing “Morohito”, or perhaps the “Khurasan Cooler”, a traditional jallab syrup of grape molasses, dates and rose water, mixed with date-infused vodka, Licor 43 and fresh apple juice. The wine list is commendably Mediterranean in feel, with Château Musar’s second wine, Hochar Père et Fils, standing out as a good gutsy accompaniment to the strong flavours on the menu. If it’s a more refreshing white you’re after, then at £16 it’s probably worth an exploratory punt on the Guerrouane from Morocco.
Round the corner from the central bar is the delicatessen, stocked with olives, quiches, mezze and sandwiches for a light lunchtime bite. Meanwhile the bakery churns out a tempting selection of speciality breads, including walnut, pistachio or apricot, together with sweeter treats such as cakes, tarts and pastries. The walls are lined with the stuff of foodies’ dreams: boutique oils, exotic condiments, posh chocolates and decorative ceramic dishes.
If you’re in the area first thing, Del’Aziz also offers a substantial breakfast selection. Choose between eggs Benedict, omelettes, a spicy twist on the Full English, or perhaps Berber pancakes, served with honey and roasted almonds. Fresh fruit juices are served on their own or in a selection of cocktails and smoothies. Throughout the day a range of over 30 artisan teas are available.
Altogether, Del’Aziz offers a well-executed, authentic taste of some of the world’s great cuisines, skilfully adapted to a London setting. Some complaints about the efficiency of the service seems to be the only negative feedback here, but the team is charming nevertheless, so it may just be a case of sitting back on your cushion and embracing the faithfully reproduced pace of the eastern Mediterranean lifestyle.
Del’Aziz has other London branches in Swiss Cottage, Bankside and Westfield.
Contact details:
www.delaziz.co.uk
0207 407 2991 (Bermondsey branch)
bermondsey@delaziz.co.uk
11 Bermondsey Square,
London SE1 3UN
Gabriel Savage, 28.07.09