SPIRITS VODKA DEBATE: Strong Spirit

The standard abv for Russian vodka, as well as premium vodka, is 40%, yet many others are bottled at 37.5%. Sputnik Vodka sponsored a debate to discover just how important that 2.5% really is

In the last few years, vodka has indeed been living in interesting times, with seemingly endless launches of new premium offerings and recent clashes within the EU over the definition of the spirit, all while sales have continued to soar, fuelled by cocktails and consumers’ consistent willingness to trade up. This has all resulted in a number of issues that the category has yet to address. Sputnik vodka is tackling these issues head-on, by initiating debate in the trade, to stimulate greater understanding of vodka’s current place in the market.

Lenny Musatov, Sputnik’s marketing director maintains that a 40% abv vodka is the “golden standard” in Russia. This was established by Dmitry Mendeleev, inventor of the periodic table, while employed by the Russian government. Sputnik is bottled at this abv, as are most premium vodkas. In the UK, most own-label vodka brands, as well as the market leaders Smirnoff and Glen’s, bottle at 37.5%, the legal minimum in the EU. The legal minimum abv for whisky in the EU is 40%. Less duty is paid in the UK on spirits below 40%.

Is 40% better quality vodka – or just stronger vodka? Does this difference of 2.5% abv matter to buyers? Can consumers taste the difference? Do they care? And what is the implication for responsible drinking with 40% ABV vodkas?

“it’s an issue that is difficult to state simply”, said David Paskins of the on-trade consultancy, Gorgeous Group. “Firstly is the use of the word ‘premium’. In the trade it is used to differentiate by price, and not necessarily by quality.”

Paskins also explained that “Mendeleev was referring to 40% alcohol by weight, which is actually 50% by volume. That was the mixture of alcohol and water that, to his mind, provided the best balance. What persuaded him was the bizarre physical fact that if you mix volumes of alcohol and water you get a reduced volume of liquid.”

Complex chemistry aside, Marc Charles, managing director of Drinks Brands International, stated that “we should respect that 40% is internationally recognised for quality spirits,” but did acknowledge that “to the majority of consumers, a higher abv does not make it taste any better.” Stephen Sparrow, who launched super premium Snow Leopard vodka earlier this year, added that “they might care if they were educated about there being a difference. How can people care about something they’re not aware of?”

Matt Tench, a vodka consumer, explained that abv can be a concern, but not always. “My favourite is Zubrowka if I’m drinking it neat, and then any other rye (like Belvedere) or barley (like Finlandia ‘21’) vodkas. I generally try and keep a stock of 50% imported vodka for mixing, and you can spot the 10% difference over domestic strength, but I doubt I could tell the difference between a 40% and 37.5% spirit.”

Spirits buyer for Booths, Pete Newton, confirmed that “I don’t believe the difference of 2.5% abv matters that much to consumers, but brand recognition is important as they have to be confident in the product they are buying.” He went on to explain that “the marketing of more premium products such as the triple or quadruple distillation to highlight a vodka’s pureness can be an overriding factor in buying a lesser know brand.”

Stephen Sparrow explained that, “when I went to the experts and asked them to make me a super premium vodka, the idea of 37.5% was never discussed. It was almost default that it would be 40. If I’d said ‘I want a 37.5% vodka’, the head of the distillery would have raised an eyebrow.” Paskins confirmed that “in the trade, in terms of the UK market, we tend to look down on 37.5%.”

When it came to the question of potential and existing legislature with regard to abv, Paskins answered simply. “I don’t think there’s any way someone is going to produce a cogent argument to say a vodka should be 40%. Everyone knows that Smirnoff is the leading vodka, that consumers purchase it, and that it’s 37.5%.” Paskins also explained that he thinks that in terms of EU discussions about vodka “this is a relatively small point compared to the ingredient question”.

Charles suggested that “a reduction to 37.5% abv would be a depressing legislative action as this removes consumer choice. It is much better for the drinks producers to continue with their responsible drinking campaigns.”

From a responsible drinking point of view, David Poley, chief executive of the Portman Group, confirmed that “a drink being of a higher strength doesn’t automatically mean it’s irresponsible.” He explained that “it comes down to how it is marketed. What one shouldn’t do is suggest that a drink should be preferred because of its higher alcohol or intoxicating effect. This applies whether you’re talking about a 37.5% or a 40% vodka. The same applies, for example, to wine that’s 14% or higher.” Paskins agreed, saying, “If you take a 50ml measure of a 40% spirit, it equates to two units of alcohol. The equivalent amount of a 37.5% spirit is 1.8 units, which is not a huge difference. In the order of a tenth in terms of magnitude.”

Tench concluded simply, saying, “I’d expect a premium spirit brand to be at 40% just because it seems that for the uplift in price you should get something above and beyond the packaging, but to me the most important thing is how the spirit tastes.”

Sputnik Vodka is offering UK-based readers a chance to win a genuine Russian dinner experience for up to 6 people at Potemkin restaurant in London. If the winner is a UK resident outside of London, transport and accommodation will also be provided. To enter, send the answer to the question below to info@thedrinksbusiness.com with “Sputnik” in the subject line, before 30 November 2006.

What is the exact weight of one litre of genuine Russian vodka?

© db November 2006

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