Making a Master: spusu ‘The First’ Gemischter Satz

As part of db’s ‘Making a Master’ series, we explore spusu’s ‘The First’ Gemischter Satz, a Master medallist in The Spring Tasting 2024.

It is not uncommon to see an existing brand appear on a wine label. The usual suspects – luxury fashion collaborations, entertainment behemoths or prominent artists – can add a point of connection for a customer, and bolster a brand’s luxury credentials. Less expected, perhaps, is to see your mobile phone provider on an award-winning bottle.

Yet that is exactly the case for the Austrian producer spusu, who won a top medal for its ‘The First’ Gemischter Satz 2022 at the drinks business Spring Tasting. Best known in Austria for its telecoms and e-bike businesses, the family venture moved into wines starting with the 2022 vintage.

The Master-medallist wine is proof of a focus on quality, simplicity and connections that permeates spusu’s culture. As a Gemischter Satz, it blends varieties planted and fermented together, a traditional style in Austria.

Since the venture is new, spusu sourced its grapes for the 2022 vintage from partner vineyards. However, its winemaking team achieved the remarkable quality with an exacting selection of grapes. In a complex blend such as this, the company believes the initial selection is vital to the eventual quality.

In the first instance, that means selecting the best vineyards. The field blend came from vineyards belonging to a professor of viticulture at Austria’s oldest winemaking school. As well as an indicator of quality, this vineyard allowed spusu to produce an organic cuvée, which is a particular priority for the company.

Though not its own land, spusu made sure to treat the vineyards with the utmost care. All grapes, even though purchased from an independent grower, were harvested by spusu’s own team. That ensured that only the best grapes made it into the final product. In fact, every part of the selection process took place in the vineyard, allowing grapes to enter the winery in perfect condition. That selection, the firm believes, is the key determiner in the quality of the wine, allowing the selection of bunches that perfectly balance ripeness and freshness.

The eventual blend comprises three emblematic varieties of Austria: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and Weißburgunder. The three each bring different characteristics to the wine. Grüner Veltliner provides green aromas and acidity, Riesling supplies finesse and Weißburgunder adds weight and body.

Having selected the finest grapes, the vinification is intended to highlight their quality. It reflects the company’s overall dedication to simplicity, also evident in its telecoms business, in avoiding unnecessary embellishment. Using a friend’s cellar, the wine was fermented in stainless steel before bottling to protect all the grape’s aromas and elegance.

The Winemaker’s perspective

db spoke to Jacob Schumacher, winemaker at spusu about the ethos behind the award-winning wine and the company’s plans for the future.

Q. Why did spusu start making wines?

The Pichlers, the local family behind spusu, are down to earth and rooted in the Weinviertel community, so they had a connection to the area. They are always looking for quality in new projects (including in telecoms and e-bikes) so they were unafraid of this new challenge.

Q. How is spusu fulfilling its sustainability goals?

We’ve only bought organic grapes: we expect organic viticulture to be the main way to make wine before long. It has great benefits, such as greater biodiversity and higher mineral content (for instance Potassium) in the grapes.

We are also actively working on PIWI plantings for resilience and adaptability to climate change as part of our long-term sustainable outlook. These crosses and hybrids are better adapted to dryness and reduce the need for pesticides.

Some people have misconceptions about the varieties, but you can work with them to make great wines, especially by leaning into their phenols and structure through skin contact. For example, Donauriesling is already accepted in Germany. In Austria, currently Roesler, Rathay, Souvignier gris, Muscaris und Blütenmuskateller are accepted. We hope for a acceptance of Donauveltliner and Donauriesling.

Q. How does spusu plan to grow in the coming years?

We are already planting vineyards – two acres this year and three next year – and expect the first harvests after two to three years. We are also buying vineyards already in production, as well as working on our own winery. For the spusu Gemischter Satz specifically, we’d love to work from our own production as well as buying from our trusted partners.

Below, Siobhan Turner MW provides her tasting note from The Spring Tasting 2024.

spusu, Wein Gemischter Satz ‘The First’, 2022

Producer: spusu Wein GmbH
Region: Niederösterreich
Country: Austria
Grape Variety: Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weißburgunder
ABV: 12.5%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Cork
Approximate retail price: £25
Medal: Master

A beautiful, harmonious and exciting blend of aromas and flavours, with notes of wild flowers, chamomile, jasmine and white tea, with a touch of citrus and golden peaches. The palate is truly charming – elegant and refreshing, with ripe, juicy acidity, moderate alcohol and a long, floral finish. This would be a perfect accompaniment to Japanese food, especially sushi, or to chicken pan-fried with morel mushrooms and spring greens. Organically farmed, the wine is also certified vegan.