Tasting notes:

‘Wow’ is the best single word to describe this wine after just one sip. Worthy of grand cru Burgundy status, yet cheaper than your average village-level Meursault, this Austrian Chardonnay is certainly not cheap, but affordable considering the quality – that is relative to the benchmarks. Aromatically, it’s all subtle smokiness, with a whiff of freshly-struck matchstick, then hazelnuts and citrus. In the mouth, it’s layered, mouth-filling and refreshing, with toast and cedar wood mixing with white peach and fresh grapefruit, then a finish with some chalkiness to the texture, and lingering notes of grilled lemon and crushed rocks. One glass won’t be enough, and a wine to serve blind if you enjoy surprising those wedded to high-end Bourgogne blanc. (Patrick Schmitt MW)