Regional spotlight: Western Australia’s Margaret River

db hears from winemakers in Western Australia’s Margaret River about what makes the region a “grape-growing Mecca”.

“Situated in one of the most picturesque areas of the world, Margaret River is now a (non-hidden) gem that has grabbed the attention of the world wine industry by storm,” says Tyke Wheatley, winemaker at Windance Wines. “Put simply, there isn’t another wine growing region like it.”

Wheatley isn’t the only winemaker in Margaret River who thinks as much; in fact, this confidence seems to be a trait of producers across the region.

Larry Cherubino, winemaker at Cherubino Wines, has worked in vineyards spanning France, Italy, the US, South Africa and New Zealand, as well as his native Australia. For him, Margaret River offers “one of the best examples of a maritime climate that I’ve experienced in all the places that I’ve worked around the world”.

Bordered by ocean on three sides, the region has a rare combination of a Mediterranean climate, maritime influence and ancient geology.

“It just has this unique two-ocean influence, the Southern Ocean and the Indian Ocean, which is just perfectly suited to ripening lots of different grape varieties,” says Cherubino.

Winery Vasse Felix highlights that the geology of Margaret River is considered among the oldest of the Earth’s viticultural regions, surpassing that of both South Africa and Europe. Granite and gneiss rocks are aged between 1,130 and 1,600 million years old, and have eroded into Ironstone gravel (called Forest Grove soils locally). These tough, infertile soils encourage well-balanced vine growth and grapes of intensity.

The land is defined by two unique areas split by the Dunsborough Faultline, which runs vertically through the full length of the region. To its west, the Leeuwin Complex, with its laterite foundations, high elevations, streams and valleys, is the prized land for more than two-thirds of the region’s vineyards. To the east are sandy soils have been formed by the decomposition of sedimentary rock.

The diverse landforms across the region support an array of viticulture options and wine styles. Indeed, one of the most distinguishing features of the soils of Margaret River is the extent of change that occurs across the region and how frequently soil types can transition, even across a single block of vines. This landscape allows vignerons to match grape varieties by row and produce an array of wine styles over small land areas.

Wheatley has dubbed Margaret River, with its gravelly well-draining soils and south-westerly winds, a “grape-growing Mecca”.

“Yes, we may only produce 2% of Australia’s annual grape crush, but what we do produce is iconic,” he says.

Its production is small but mighty, and two grape varieties in particular have made a name for themselves as icons of the region: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Margaret River’s original mass selection cuttings of Western Australia’s heritage cabernet clone — the Houghton clone — were procured and planted by Dr Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix. This old vine material arrived in Western Australia in the 1800s. Grown on its own rootstock, Houghton is the preferred Cabernet clone in Margaret River. For Chardonnay, the West Australia heritage Gingin Chardonnay clone is ubiquitous with the region and known for its small bunches (around 70 to 100 grams) and its ‘hen and chicken’ berries (millerandage).

Cherubino says that “regardless of how much and how far those varieties are planted all around the world, the expression of Chardonnay and Cabernet out of Margaret River is just so unique”.

In his view, the region offers “arguably one of the most classic examples there is of Chardonnay in the southern hemisphere”.

The unique quality of the region is defined in its ability to grow both these grapes in the same area.

Cherubino explains: “If you think about any other winegrowing region around the world, particularly the French appellation system, you would never be allowed to grow Chardonnay and Cabernet in the same place.”

Wheatley agrees. “It truly is unique that a somewhat delicate white grape can excel in the same soil and climate as a robust red,” he says.

Human touch

To match its ancient geology, the Margaret River we know today has a long and rich human history. The Devil’s Lair Cave in Margaret River has provided evidence of the presence of ancestors dating back at least 50,000 years, one of the earliest records of human life in Australia.

Even so, the region is relatively young when it comes to viticulture. According to winery Voyager Estate, the first commercial grapes were planted in 1967, making Margaret River’s success as a region even more impressive considering the time scale.

Today, its the winemakers and their love of the land that make Margaret River wines shine.

Ellin Tritt, winemaker for Fraser Gallop Estate, puts it best: “With its pristine coastline, world-class surf, ancient soils and forests, the region is hard to rival. It’s not just the landscape—the people here bring a vibrancy and warmth that, I truly believe, finds its way into the wines.”

Key Facts:

Area: 213,000 hectares (5,840 hectares (2.7%)) / North to South: 110 kilometres (68 miles) / West to East: 27 kilometres (17 miles)
Highest Elevation: 231 metres
Soil: Whilst the unique Forest Grove ironstone soils are some of the most acclaimed, the region’s diversity of soil types offer optimal conditions for a myriad of grape varieties, styles and wine complexity.
Key grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Shiraz/Syrah
Other varieties to watch: Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Cabernet Franc & Tempranillo

Register here for the Great Southern & Margaret River Tasting Experience – Bangkok 

Related news

MadFish celebrates introducing 750,000 Brits to Western Australian wine

Western Australia's Cherubino joins Hatch Mansfield in the UK

Howard Park: 2018 best vintage in Western Australia for 25 years